Sewing instructions for a blouse in Dresden

Level : For experienced users
 
In this tutorial, Dresden was sewn from a thin, embroidered cotton fabric.

Materials needed:

We recommend lightweight cotton, cotton poplin or viscose fabrics.

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	1.50 m	140 cm wide
	insert	0.70 m	90 cm wide
	buttons	6 pcs.	1.5 cm diameter
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	1.90 m	140 cm wide
	insert	0.70 m	90 cm wide
	buttons	6 pcs.	1.5 cm diameter

Cut:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay out the back piece, collar stand, undercollar, and upper collar on the fold. All pattern pieces should be laid with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the ends of the darts. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut out all outer fabric pieces that will be fully interfaced first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut them out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

 

 

You will need the following fabric:

• 2x front part, mirror image
• 1x back part broken
• 2x sleeves, mirrored
• 4x front yoke (in our example 2x fabric, 2x lining)
• 2x back yoke cut on the fold (in our example 1x fabric, 1x lining)

Also includes insert:

• 2x button placket, opposite each other

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.

The colored lines in the pictures show you, in addition to the description, where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

You start with the front piece and iron the pleats according to the pattern markings. Then you topstitch them on the right side of the fabric from the top down to the hem and iron them to the side.

Now gather the marked areas on the front and back pieces at the yoke seam.

For this, you'll need to add gathering threads. These are a helpful tool for achieving even gathering. Select the longest stitch setting on your sewing machine. Do not backstitch at the beginning and end of the gathering stitches; leave approximately 10 cm of thread. Sew two gathering stitches about 1 cm apart, positioned 0.5 cm and 1.5 cm from the cut edge, so that the final seam will run precisely between these two stitches. Pay attention to the pattern markings to determine the area where gathering is required.

Now, carefully pull the two lower threads on one side and gather the fabric until you reach the seam width of the yoke. You can now distribute the gathers evenly.

Next, we'll work on the yoke. Sew the shoulder seams right sides together, both for the inner and outer yoke. Press the seam allowances open. 

Now, place the inner yoke on the table with the right side of the fabric facing up (the front yoke seams should be at the top). Place the front pieces right side up onto the yoke seams. Now, pin the outer yoke on top with the wrong side of the fabric facing up.

... and anyone with fine motor skill deficits should crack open a beer now ;-)...who came up with this rounded shape?

Close the seam and iron the seam allowance into the yoke.

Now, sew the neckline together, right sides facing. Clip the seam allowance at the curve. Then, topstitch the seam allowance flat against the inner yoke.

Now it gets tricky, but ingenious: the burrito technique

First, sew the outer back yoke to the back piece, right sides together.

You lay the blouse out on the table with the right side facing up and roll the front pieces up to the shoulder seam.

You do the same with the back piece until the already attached yoke seam is on top.

You take the loose yoke piece, enclose the front and back pieces with it, and sew it to the already attached yoke piece.

You can now pull the front and back pieces out of the burrito from the side and your super neatly finished yoke is finished...great, isn't it?

Next, you pull raking threads into the marked area of ​​the armhole, then you sew the sleeves right sides together into the armholes, finish the seam allowance together and press it into the sleeve.

Now you can sew the sleeve side seam and the side seam right sides together in one go. Finish the seam allowance together and press it forward.

Then the hem and sleeve hem are finished.

Fold the hem over twice by 1.5 cm and topstitch. Fold the sleeve hem over once by 1 cm and once by 1.5 cm. Leave a small opening when topstitching to insert the elastic.

Final spurt:

The button placket is ironed in half lengthwise, and the "inner" half is folded over by another 1cm.

Then, right sides together, you sew the upper edge (neckline) and the lower edge (hem) together.

Now sew the button placket to the front piece with the "outer" half right sides together, press the seam allowance into the button placket and topstitch from the right in the shadow of the seam, so that you catch the "inner" half as well.

Now all that's left is to add the buttonholes (right front) and the buttons (left front).

Your DRESDEN is ready!

If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible.

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your sewing pattern team