If you like wearing eye-catching blouses and love bold appearances, our Oumou knot blouse is just the thing for you. Only held together with a tied knot in the middle front, Oumou otherwise shows a lot of skin. The slightly cut goblet collar merges into a deep V-neckline that only ends at the knot. The narrow sleeves with the fluttering flounces bring a bit of flamenco feeling into play and are still an integral part of the fashionable street scene. The length at the center back is: 52-60 cm, depending on the size.
In this example, the pretty Oumou blouse with a knot at the front was sewn from a thin woven fabric made of 100% cotton.
→ To the pattern “Blouse Oumou”
Required material:
We recommend viscose, silk or polyester satin.
- Sizes 34-40: outer fabric 1.70m (140cm wide)
- Sizes 42-50: outer fabric 1.90m (140cm wide)
- 34-50: Insert 0.10m (90cm wide)
Cutting:
Cut the pattern pieces out of fabric and transfer the clips from the pattern. In addition to the description, the colorful brackets in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn.
- 1x front part opposite
- 1x front receipts opposite
- 1x lower back part in the break
- 2x back yokes in the break
- 1x sleeve opposite
- 2x flounce in the break
- Remaining iron-on fleece to reinforce the goblet collar
Sewing instructions
Transfer the markings for the darts to the two front pieces. Place the two outer clips on top of each other so that a fold forms on the back.
Pin this line firmly and mark the end of the dart. Sew it exactly on the line, sewing from the outside to the inside. In the end, you don't need to backtack the seam if you let the stitch length taper off a little. Fold the dart up and iron it flat so that it is in the right direction when you sew the side seams together later.
Cut the iron-on fleece based on the marking in the pattern and iron it onto the relevant left sides of the fabric according to the manufacturer's instructions. The following steps are sewn exactly the same for both front pieces and the two facings, so they are only explained once: Place both front pieces right sides together and close the small collar seam in the middle back (blue staples) and iron the seam apart.
A back yoke is then sewn to the collar neckline, right sides together, creating a kind of goblet collar. Start with the shoulder seam of one of the front pieces (staples). Sew them from the outside in.
When you have reached the corner, lift the sewing foot, leave the needle in the fabric and carefully clip the corner on the front piece/facing up to just before the seam. Then place the back neckline of the yoke straight on the edge of the collar and sew it until you reach the second corner. There you repeat the previous step and close the second shoulder seam. Follow the same steps for the front facings.
Pin the facing to the front piece, right sides together, and close the outer edge by starting at the hem of the facing (lower purple clip), sewing around the middle piece, sewing up to the collar and then back down to the other side Hem. Carefully clip the seam on the curves up to just before the seam, turn your blouse to the right side, iron the edge nicely and stitch it down close to the edge.
Now the lower back part is sewn on, surrounded by the two yoke parts. To do this, place the outer yoke with its bottom edge, right sides together, on the top edge of the back piece and pin it in place (staples). Then grab the inner passé from below and pull it forward and then up so that its right side comes to rest on the left side of the back piece. The main part of the blouse is now rolled up in between. Pin this passé on top of the edge of the other one and sew it in place.
Turn this through one of the later sleeve seams, iron the seam allowance towards the passé and stitch the seam close to the edge, so you get a clean result on the outside and inside. Place the blouse right sides together and close the side seams. Make sure that – as described above – the darts are sewn upwards.
Depending on your choice of fabric, overcast the entire edge of the facing up to the shoulder seam and fold it slightly inwards and stitch this in place. This is not sewn onto the outer blouse. Fold the open shoulder seams of the inner yoke inward at the seam allowance and stitch this in place.
Close the side seams of the sleeve and the flounce right sides together (red staples). Bind the bottom edge of the flounce and turn the hem up 1cm and stitch it from the outside.
Place the sleeve, right sides together, with its bottom edge in the flounce and close the open edges all around. Then place the sleeve right sides together in the armhole and close this seam all around. Repeat on the other side.
Congratulations, your blouse Oumou is ready!
The post SEWING INSTRUCTIONS FOR BLOUSE “OUMOU” first appeared on Blog Schnittmuster Berlin .
