Sewing instructions for the Oumou blouse

27 avril 2018

If you enjoy eye-catching blouses and love bold looks, our Oumou knotted blouse is perfect for you. Held together only with a knot at the center front, the Oumou otherwise reveals plenty of skin. The slightly cropped, goblet collar transitions into a deep V-neck that only ends at the knot. The narrow sleeves with fluttering flounces add a touch of flamenco flair and are still a staple in the fashionable street scene. The center back length is 52-60 cm, depending on the size.

The pretty Oumou blouse with a knotted front is sewn in this example from a thin woven fabric made of 100% cotton.

→ To the “Blouse Oumou” pattern

Required materials:

We recommend viscose, silk or polyester satin.

Sizes 34-40: Outer fabric 1.70m (140cm wide)
Sizes 42-50: Outer fabric 1.90m (140cm wide)
34-50: insert 0.10m (90cm wide)

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Cut the pattern pieces out of fabric and transfer the notches from the pattern. The colored clips in the pictures, in addition to the description, show you where to sew a seam.

1x front part opposite
1x front documents opposite
1x lower back part in the break
2x back passes in the break
1x sleeve opposite
2x flounce in the break
Leftover iron-on interfacing to reinforce the collar

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Transfer the dart markings to the two front pieces. Place the two outer notches on top of each other to create a fold on the back.

Pin this line firmly and mark the end of the dart. Sew it exactly on the line, sewing from the outside in. You don't need to bartack the seam at the end if you taper the stitch length very slightly. Fold the dart upward and iron it flat so it will face the right way when you sew the side seams together.

Cut the fusible interfacing according to the markings on the pattern and iron it onto the wrong sides of the fabric according to the manufacturer's instructions. The following steps are sewn exactly the same for both front pieces and both facings, so they will only be explained once: Place both front pieces right sides together and close the small collar seam at the center back (blue clips), then iron the seam open.

Next, sew a back yoke, right sides together, to the collar opening, creating a goblet-shaped collar. Start with the shoulder seam of one of the front pieces (the staples). Sew it from the outside in.

When you reach the corner, raise the presser foot, leave the needle in the fabric, and carefully clip the corner of the front piece/facing in place until just before the seam. Then, place the back neckline of the yoke straight onto the collar edge and sew it in place until you reach the second corner. Repeat the previous step there and close the second shoulder seam. Repeat the same steps for the front facings.

Pin the facing to the front piece, right sides together, and close the outer edge by starting at the hem of the facing (bottom, purple clip), sewing around the center piece, up to the collar, and then down to the hem on the other side. Carefully clip the seam at the curves just before the seam, turn your blouse right side out, press the edge neatly, and topstitch it close to the edge.

Now sew the lower back piece together, encompassing both yoke pieces. To do this, place the outer yoke with its bottom edge right sides together on the top edge of the back piece and pin it in place (staples). Then, grasp the inner yoke from below and pull it forward and then upward, so that its right side lies on the left side of the back piece. The main body of the blouse is now rolled up between them. Pin this yoke to the top edge of the other yoke and sew it in place.

Turn this through one of the sleeve seams, press the seam allowance toward the yoke, and topstitch the seam close to the edge for a neat finish on both the inside and outside. Place the blouse right sides together and sew the side seams. Make sure that the darts are sewn facing up, as described above.

Depending on your fabric choice, neaten the entire edge of the facing up to the shoulder seam, fold it slightly inward, and stitch it in place. This will not be sewn to the outer blouse. Fold the open shoulder seams of the inner yoke inward at the seam allowance and stitch it in place.

Close the side seams of the sleeve and the flounce, right sides together (red staples). Overcast the bottom edge of the flounce and fold the hem up 1cm, then stitch it from the outside.

Place the sleeve, right sides together, into the flounce with its bottom edge tucked in and sew the open edges all the way around. Then, place the sleeve, right sides together, into the armhole and sew this seam all the way around. Repeat on the other side.