SEWING INSTRUCTIONS BLOUSE “SUVI”

After the successful collaboration with Manu from emilea.berlin on the Emilea and Emil hoodies and the Svea jacket , the fourth cut was created in another collaboration - the Suvi blouse . Suvi is a casual summer blouse with a very clear and straightforward cut - just very emilea.berlin. The special feature is definitely the double stripe in the center front, which is ideal for working with contrasting fabric. The round neckline with slit and the raglan sleeves complete this blouse cut, which impresses in an elegant combination of lace and silk as well as in the sporty version made of linen or cotton.

Length at center back = 62-68 cm

→ To the pattern “Suvi”

In these instructions, Suvi was sewn from silk.

Required material:

We recommend linen, silk or a light cotton.

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric 1	1.00 m	140cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric 1	1.40 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	Outer fabric 2	0.70 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50 Sizes 34-50	inlay Button	0.35m 1 piece	90cm wide 8mm diameter

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining . Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the front and back pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread up arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts . Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends , pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or a pin . It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

What you need from fabric:

• 1x back part in the break
• 2x front part opposite
• 2x sleeves opposite
• 2x front cover in opposite directions
• 1x panel at the back in the break
• 1x eyelet

also with insert and forming band:

• 1x receipt at the back in the break
• 2x receipt front opposite

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

We start by sewing the bust darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the dart contents upwards.

Now take your cut front panel and place it, right sides together, on the front edge of the front piece. Pay attention to the clips in the cut.

The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the front.

Then neaten the center front from the hem to 3cm above the top clip in the cut. The clip defines the length of the slit in the center front.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processed front parts.

Now you can place both front pieces, right sides together, and close them until they snap. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Iron the hem in and out twice according to the clips on the cut.

Next, close the dart (shoulder seam) of the open sleeve, right sides together, up to the mark in the pattern.

The sleeve dart is then neatened together and the protruding threads at the ends are pulled into the seam with a needle and neatened separately. The seam allowance is ironed to the front.

Press the hem of the sleeve in and out twice according to the clips in the pattern.

Close the sleeve seam, right sides together, finish the seam allowances and press them back.

Now all you have to do is sew the double-folded hem close to the edge and your sleeves are ready.

Now let's get to the evidence. The front facings are placed right to right and closed until they snap. You can iron or lay the seam allowances apart.

The lower cut edge of the front and back facings is then neatened.

Iron the neatened cut edge of the front facing 1cm over.

Iron the neatened cut edge of the back facing 1cm over.

To prepare the eyelet, a continuous roll is used. There is also a video here in which Dagmar explains how it works.

Your eyelet ribbon for closing the center front is ready.

The finished roll is attached to the front right facing according to your button size. Pay attention to the markings on the cut.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processed eyelet.

Now sew the prepared front facing, right sides together, to the slit neckline of the front piece. Pay attention to the clips and only stitch up to the previously sewn line.

The center front is neatly ironed out, as is the collapsed slit in the front.

Now finally the front and back pieces can be sewn together at the side seams, right sides together. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

The previously prepared hem of the front and back pieces is then stitched straight through.

Now place your sleeves, right sides together, into the armhole. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed into the sleeve.

The back facing is sewn, right sides together, to the front facing and the seam allowances are ironed apart.

Now you can stitch and secure the previously ironed edge of the facings with 0.8cm.

The facings are placed, right sides together, on the neck hole and stitched all around. The seam allowances must be clipped in so that the neck hole curve can be laid nice and flat.
The seam allowances are then stitched flat as far as you can get them. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Attach your button in the correct position. Pay attention to the marking in the cut.

Finally, the facing is stitched all around the front and back.

Your SUVI is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.