Nähanleitung Bluse Svenja

Sewing instructions blouse Svenja

---> ENGLISH VERSION BELOW! <---

Blouses or shirts, which top is your favorite? Blouses are ideal companions in the warm season; depending on the choice of fabric, they have a cooling effect on the skin. The only disadvantage is that cotton and viscose in particular tend to wrinkle, so they should be ironed after washing. Apart from the wide, pleated sleeves, Svenja's cut is pure and straight. The beautiful boat neckline and the strongly rounded hem complement the wide sleeves, which are gathered together with elastic at the hem.

Length at center back = 65 - 71 cm

→ To the pattern “Svenja”

In these instructions, Svenja was sewn from a woven fabric.

Required material:

We recommend a light cotton or silk.

Sizes 34-42

  • Outer fabric 1.30 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 44-50

  • Outer fabric 1.60 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

  • Elastic band 0.50 m (1 cm wide)

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvages parallel to the center so that you can place the front, back and yoke back in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

What you need from fabric:

  • 1x front part in the break
  • 1x back part in the break
  • 1x yoke at the back in the fold
  • 1x neck hole strip at the front in the slanted FDL
  • 2x sleeves in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

We start by sewing the bust darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the dart contents upwards.

Then place the box pleat in the back part according to the pattern in the middle of the back and stitch it with an auxiliary seam with a quilting foot width.

Now you can sew the yoke together with the back piece, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances together. If necessary, you can iron and topstitch the finished seam allowances.

As a little trick to make the hem much easier to work with later, prepare the hem of the back and front pieces as follows: Stitch an auxiliary seam 0.5cm wide, as indicated by the yellow line in the photo.

The front and back pieces are well prepared and can be sewn together at the shoulders, right sides together. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

The side seam and the hem of the front part are neatened all around,…

...as well as the side seams and hem of the back.

Here we will show you that we “gather” the previously sewn auxiliary seam a little so that the curve is maintained. This is then ironed flat and the hem can be ironed up better later.

Then iron the hem 1.5cm from the first clip to the opposite clip in the front, as well as...

... in the back.

Close both side seams right sides together from the front and back pieces up to the snap and iron the seam allowances apart.

The hem is stitched with 1cm all around.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how we processed the hem on the side seam.

Now let's come to the neck hole strip. These are placed right sides together and sewn together. Iron the seam allowances apart...

... and the neck hole strip left sides together in a wrap.

The neck hole strip is then sewn together with an auxiliary seam, quilting foot wide.

Let's now turn our attention to the sleeves of the blouse and start with the folds as marked in the pattern and fasten them with an auxiliary seam the width of a quilting foot.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the folds in the arm ball.

The hem of the sleeves is prepared by ironing according to the cut.

Then close the inner arm seam right sides together and finish the seam allowances together. The seam allowances are ironed towards the back.

The hem is now double folded and folded over, stitched through and a small hole is left open for the elastic to be inserted.

Cut the elastic to the appropriate length for your upper arm circumference and attach it to a safety pin. You push this into your open hole and along the tunnel.

The rubber is sewn together...

... and the opening closed.

The sleeve is finished and can be inserted into the armhole and sewn, right sides together. Pay attention to the clips in the cut and the double clips that define the back position of the sleeves. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed into the sleeve.

Now all that's missing is the neck hole band, which is inserted into the neck hole right sides together and sewn into place. Pay attention to the clips in the cut. In our model the seam is on the left shoulder seam.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also ensures that the neck hole strip automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the neck hole strip is stitched onto the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

As a final step, the neck hole strip is placed inside and stitched through from the right.

Your SVENJA is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, your Pattern Berlin team.

--> ENGLISH VERSION <--

Sewing tutorial blouse Svenja

Blouses or shirts, which top is your favorite? Blouses are ideal companions in the warm season, depending on the choice of fabric they have a cooling effect on the skin, the only drawback: especially cotton and viscose tend to wrinkle, so should be ironed after washing. The cut of Svenja is pure and straight except for the wide, pleated sleeves. The beautiful U-boat neckline and the strongly rounded hemline complement the wide sleeve, which is gathered with an elastic tape at the hem.

Length at center back = 65 - 71 cm

Svenja was sewn from a woven fabric in this tutorial.

Material needed:

We recommend a light cotton or silk.

Sizes 34-42

  • Outer fabric 1.30 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 44-50

  • Outer fabric 1.60 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

  • elastic tape 0.50 m (1 cm wide)

Cut:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric with the right side facing up. Lay the selvages parallel to the center so you can place the front, back, and yoke-back at fabric fold. The pattern pieces should all lie with the lettering facing up. Always align the threadline arrow in the same direction for all pieces and parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. Transfer all the snips from the pattern by making a 3mm incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric break because this is always a center. Marks define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer them either with chalk or pins.

You need fabric:

  • 1x front part in fabric fold
  • 1x back part in fabric fold
  • 1x yoke back in the fabric fold
  • 1x neckline tape in the front in the oblique FDL
  • 2x sleeves opposite

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines on the pictures show you where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

We start with sewing the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is sewn on the left side of the fabric, notch by notch, from the widest point to the tip, following the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the markings. (so that (so that the dart does not bag) closed and sewn. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew off too much or too little and the side seam finishes nice and straight.
So that you don't have to bar-tack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the dart contents to the top.

Place the box pleat in the back according to the pattern in the center back and topstitch it in place with an auxiliary seam.

Now you can also sew the yoke right sides together with the back piece and overcast the seam allowances together. If necessary, you can press the serged seam allowances upwards and topstitch them.

As a little trick to make the hem much easier to work later, prepare the hem of the back and front pieces as follows: Stitch an auxiliary seam 0.5 cm wide, as indicated by the yellow line in the photo.

The front and back pieces are well prepared and can be sewn together right sides together at the shoulders. The seam allowances are serged together and ironed according to back.

The side seam and the hem from the front piece are serged all around,...

...as well as the side seams and hem of the back.

Here we show you that we previously sewn Hilsnaht something "gather" and so the distance of the rounding is kept. This is then again ironed flat and the hem can be better ironed up later.

Then press the hem 1.5cm from the 1st notch to the opposite notch in the front, as well as...

... in the back.

Close both side seams right sides together from the front and back to the snap and press the seam allowances apart.

The hem is topstitched with 1cm all around.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how we finished the hem at the side seam.

Now we come to neckline tape. This is placed right sides together and sewn together. Press the seam allowances apart...

... and the neckline tape left to left in the fold.

Then the neckline tape is sewn to each other with an auxiliary seam quilting foot width.

Let's now turn our attention to the sleeves of the blouse and start with the pleating as marked in the pattern and fasten it with a topstitching foot-wide auxiliary seam.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the folds in the arm ball.

The hem of the sleeves is prepared by ironing around according to the pattern.

Then close the inner arm seam right sides together and serge the seam allowances together. The seam allowances are ironed according to back.

The hem is now folded in and over twice, topstitched through and a small hole is left open for the elastic to feed in.

Cut the elastic tape to the appropriate length for your upper arm circumference and attach it to a safety pin. Slide it into your open hole and along the drawstring.

The elastic tape is sewn together...

... and the opening closed.

The sleeve is finished and can be pinned and sewn right sides together in the armhole. Pay attention to the notch in the cut and the double notch, which defines the back position of the sleeve. The seam allowances are serged together and ironed into the sleeve.

Now all that's missing is the neckband, which is tucked right sides together into the neckline and sewn in place. Pay attention to the notch in the cut. In our model, the seam is on the left shoulder seam.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat. This method not only facilitates the final ironing out but also causes the neckline tape to automatically lay inside and not roll out. Only the neckline tape is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The quilting line is then only visible from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

As a final step, the neckline tape is still placed inside and stitched through from the right.

Your SVENJA is ready !

If you get stuck, or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely yours Pattern Berlin Team.

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