The pattern of the men's jacket Iwan is in the style of a classic blouson with elastic knit at the hems and the house neckline. Slanted welt pockets ensure a comfortable and casual feel. The jacket is lined.
Center back length = 70 - 75 cm
In these instructions, Iwan was sewn from a woven fabric.
Required material:
We recommend a cotton or a firm jersey, eg Romanit.
Sizes 44-50
- Outer fabric 1.60m 140cm wide
- Cord 0.50m 140cm wide
- Lining 1.30m 140cm wide
- Insert 0.80m 90cm wide
- Zipper 1 x 60cm, divisible, metal or plastic
Sizes 52-58
- Outer fabric 2.00m 140cm wide
- Cord 0.60m 140cm wide
- Lining 1.50m 140cm wide
- Insert 0.80m 90cm wide
- Zipper 1 x 65cm, divisible, metal or plastic
cutting:
Cut out the pattern pieces from your upper, lining, knit fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay the back panels, collar, hem band, and back facing in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.
- 1x back part in break
- 2x front part in opposite directions
- 2x pocket slip opposite
- 1x understep
- 2x sleeves in opposite directions
also with insert:
- 2x document in front of the same
- 1x receipt at the back in the rupture
- 2x waistband in front of the same
- 2x bar in the diagonal direction of the grain in opposite directions
- 2x position pocket front part wrong side of fabric
You need from knitting:
- 1x collar band in break
- 2x wristband
- 1x hem band in break
- 1x back part in break
- 2x front part in opposite directions
- 4x pocket bags, 2 each of the same kind
- 2x sleeves in opposite directions
Sewing instructions:
You will need a sewing machine to sew this jacket.
If you use a zipper, you also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing! 
Start your jacket with the welt pockets on the front. Draw the exact position of the pockets on your outer fabric with magic chalk.
Iron the bars on top of each other, wrong sides together in the fold...
... and place a bar with the raw edges right sides together at the marking on the bag. This pocket is the left side of the body.
Sew both strips together with one seam.
Now take the pocket facings and two pocket bags made of lining and sew them together right sides together. Press the seam allowance flat on the outside.
Place the pocket facing on the second marking on the outer fabric, right sides together, and sew it in place. Here you can see the pocket processing of the right side of the body.
Here you can see a detailed view of how I processed the bag.
Turn the sewing material over and cut the outer fabric in the middle; cut small triangles to the corners. Turn the bar and pocket pouch inside out.
Place the opposite pocket bag at the seam allowance of the bar and stitch it in place.
Sew the cut triangles onto the strip on both sides, right sides together, making sure you use nice right angles when sewing.
Close the pocket pouches right sides together all the way around.
Then place the front pieces on the back piece, right sides together, and close the side seams. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern.
You also sew the shoulder seams right sides together.
You make the underlay by sewing the short ends together, right sides together, and then turning them over. Cut away the seam allowance at the top.
Turn the stitching right side out and iron everything flat.
Sew the zipper onto the underlay, right sides together. The slanted tip is up.
Iron the collar, cuffs and hem with wrong sides together in a fold.
Sew the front waistband onto the hem waistband, right sides together. Then iron the seam allowances apart...
... and iron the hem band on top of each other in a fold, left sides facing.
Lay the prepared hem cuff right sides together on the hem of the jacket and initially close only approx. 10cm from the center front. So you can easily process the zipper next.
Place the zipper with the underlay right sides together on the left front side and the opposite side of the zipper on the right side of the body.
Process the front facing, right sides together with the back facing and close the shoulder seam. Iron the seam allowances apart.
Right sides together, sew the bottom short stretch of front facing to the bottom stretch of inner hem cuff. Press the seam allowances up.
Lay the hem band right sides together against the fold and thus completely close the center front. The front slip is right sides together on the zipper.
Sew the inner sleeve seam right sides together.
Place the cuffs right sides together and close them to form a round. Iron the seam allowances apart...
... and then left to left in the break.
Sew the sleeve cuffs to the sleeve hem right sides together.
Now you can put the sleeves right sides together in the correct armhole.
Sew the pressed collar to the neckline, right sides together.
Then process the receipt right sides together and close the collar seam.
Also close the remaining lower section of the hem right sides together.
Sew the side seams of the lining front parts and back part right sides together. Iron the seam allowances apart.
Sew the shoulder seams right sides together and iron out the seam allowances.
Sew the inner arm seam of the right sleeve right sides together. Sew the arm seam of the left sleeve with a 10cm opening in between, for later closing the hem of the jacket.
Sew the sleeves into the correct armhole, right sides together.
Place the finished lining right sides together on the facing and sew it in place all around.
Within the seam allowances of the shoulders you work an additional lining strip (approx. 2-3cm long). This serves to provide additional mobility for the lining.
Sew the seam allowances of both fabrics together at the armpit point.
Also sew the lining sleeve to the sleeve cuff. Be careful not to twist the sleeve.
Sew the lining hem to the hem cuff, right sides together. But remember to leave a 10cm opening inside the center back. You turn the whole jacket through this opening.
Turn the jacket inside out and close the previous opening inside the center back through the opening in the sleeve.
Slightly close the opening in the sleeve edge.
Your IWAN is ready !
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de.
We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.
