Sewing instructions Calvi
Calvi is a slim, long sundress perfect for summer days. Its unique feature is the short, gathered top that reaches the waist and is incorporated into the upper hem. Cut on the bias, it requires no zipper and drapes beautifully.
Length from HSP = 134-138 cm at the front from the neck shoulder point
Calvi was sewn from a viscose twill in this tutorial.
Materials needed:
We recommend a thin, flowing fabric, e.g. viscose, Tencel, polyester or silk.
Sizes 34-42 made entirely from one fabric
- Outer fabric 2.50 m (1.40 m wide)
Sizes 44-50
- Outer fabric 2.80 m (1.40 m wide)
Sizes 34-42, 2 different fabrics
- Outer fabric dress 2.30m (1.40m wide)
Sizes 44-50, 2 different fabrics
- Outer fabric for dress 2.50m (1.40m wide)
Sizes 34-50, 2 different fabrics
- Outer fabric Top 0.70m (1.40m wide)
- Folded satin ribbon 2.50 m 2cm wide (ready-made) or cut from your fabric
- Insert: 0.10m
- Form band: 1.30m- 1.60m
Cut:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!
Since the dress is cut on the bias, we recommend using a rotary cutter.
Cut the pattern pieces from your Take the outer fabric. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedge at a right angle to the opposite selvedge to create a fold in the bias. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the dart ends. Snip the seam allowance at the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.
You will need the following fabric:
1x front piece cut on the fold (slanted grain)
1x back piece cut on the fold (slanted grain)
1x Top front in the fold (slanted grain)
1x Top front in the fold (slanted grain)
Bias tape 2.5m
Sewing instructions:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!
To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.
Make sure you use a thin, new sewing machine needle. The colored lines in the pictures, in addition to the written instructions, show you where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
Since the neckline edges can stretch slightly due to the bias grain, you secure the edges with bias tape. Trim the bias tape to 0.7 cm. Place the top on the pattern piece to check that the length hasn't increased, and iron the bias tape onto the upper edge of the front, back, and armhole of the top.
Close the side seam right sides together, neaten the seam allowance together and iron towards the back.
Do the same with the top.
You can now hem the edge,
...and iron 1cm upwards and stitch down.
Turn the top over the dress so that the right side of both pieces is facing out. Pin the two pieces together along the edge and secure them with a basting stitch. The edges of the dress might be slightly stretched; push them down with a pin while sewing.
Now you start by edging the cutout edge:
Measure the distance of the armhole from the top point, along the back edge, to the other side of the top point on the cut. You will need this length for the bias strip.
Start at one end of the strap. Pin the bias tape to the outside of the top/dress, right sides together, and sew it on with a 0.7cm seam allowance. Trim the tape flush with the ends of the straps.
Iron the strip upwards. Now fold the bias tape inwards twice and pin it in place perpendicular to the edge. It should be wide enough to cover the previous seam line by 2mm. Topstitch the tape close to the edge from the right side, securing the inner edge of the bias tape at the same time.
Next, sew the bias tapes together. Place the strips right sides together, leaving small corners sticking out. Sew straight from one corner to the other. Press the seam allowance open and trim any excess corners.
You're almost there! :)))
Now the front opening is finished with the diagonal strip.
The length for the bias strip is calculated as the length of the front neckline + 2x the strap length (see pattern).
To prevent your straps from stretching endlessly later, we have fixed the strap area with an insert.
Half of the ribbon is pinned to the center front of the dress and then along the entire front neckline. The ribbon should extend evenly at both ends. The ribbon is then sewn to the dress, right sides together.
The ends of the straps are ironed over by 1 cm. The long edges of the straps are ironed inwards by 1 cm towards the dress, so that they touch in the middle.
Now fold the straps lengthwise and secure them.
Insert a pin into the beginning of the strap to prevent it from slipping, and begin with the first stitches, securing the stitches. Leave the pin in place. Gently pulling on the pin will help the feed dogs and prevent the strap beginning from being pulled in. Now stitch the two outer edges together... until you reach the neckline edge.
Next up is the front cutout; you already know how that works :)))
and on to the other end of the support.
The cutout edge and the straps are finished :)))
Pin the straps to the back at the points marked on the pattern. You can determine the length yourself or use the measurements provided in the pattern as a guide. Important: Be careful not to twist the strap. Sew the straps in place at the seam.
Overlock the hem of the dress, iron it, and sew the hem securely.
Your Calvi is finished !
If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.