Sewing instructions fur vest Colette

Are you dreaming of a cozy and warm fur vest ? The vest Colette fulfills this dream. Not only does it look casual and cool, it's also a quick sewing project. The vest is lined and can be closed with hooks and eyes.


Center back length = 50 - 60 cm

In these instructions, Colette was sewn from a teddy plush.

→ To the pattern “Colette”

Required material:

We recommend a long-haired faux fur or a teddy plush.

Sizes 34-42

• Outer fabric 0.70 m 140 cm wide
• Lining 0.70 m 140cm wide
  

Sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 0.90 m 140 cm wide
• Lining 0.90 m 140cm wide

Sizes 34-50

• Hooks and eyes 5 pieces 10mm long
• Form tape 2.00 m 12 mm wide

In advance for you as information:

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer and lining fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

If you want to make your Colette out of corduroy, note that corduroy is cut against the grain. We have a video for you about this.

If you want to make your Colette out of plaid fabric, Dagmar will show you the best way to cut plaid fabric in this video.

You need from fabric:

• 2x front part in opposite directions
• 2x back piece in opposite directions

From lining you need:

• 2x front part in opposite directions
• 2x back piece in opposite directions

also with band:

• 2x front armholes
• 2x front part cutout
• 2x back armholes
• 2x back part cutout

Sewing instructions:

You will need a sewing machine to sew this vest.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!

Happy sewing!

Start sewing the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart content upwards.

The next step is to sew off the bust darts from the front part of the lining. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart content upwards.

Now sew, right sides together, the center front of the lining and fabric front part on the right side of the body. Leave the openings for the hook positions.

Then the seam allowances of the front center are flat-stitched. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the lining, if it is not topstitched, automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the lining is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side. Make sure to leave the openings for the hooks open.

Position the hooks at the marked location and hand stitch them to the fur. Push the hook inwards as far as possible to ensure that the center front meets edge-to-edge.

Here you can see a detail photo of the finished center front with the hooks.

Now make the pattern pieces for the left side of the body. Secure the eyelets to the markings with a hand stitch and stitch the center front together with the lining fabric, right sides together.

Then the seam allowances of the front center are flat-stitched. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the lining, if it is not topstitched, automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the lining is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side. Note that you sew carefully over the metal of the eyelets or even use the handwheel to help.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processed eyelets.

Sew the neckline of the front parts of the lining and outer fabric right sides together. Snap a little on sharp curves.

Close the center back of the outer fabrics right sides together. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Close the center back of the lining fabrics right sides together. Press the seam allowances to one side.

Sew the neckline of the back parts of the lining and outer fabric right sides together. Snap a little on sharp curves.

Now you can close the shoulder seam in one go, right sides together, from the front and back pieces.

Then the seam allowances of the neckline are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the lining, if it is not topstitched, automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the lining is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Place the lining fabric right sides together on the outer fabric and sew the armholes together all the way around.

Then the seam allowances of the armholes are flat-stitched from both sides and as far as you can get at them. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the lining, if it is not topstitched, automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the lining is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Sew together the hems of the front and back pieces of the lining and outer fabric, right sides together.

Then the seam allowances of the front hems and the back hem are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the lining, if it is not topstitched, automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the lining is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Sew the left side seam of the front and back pieces right sides together. To do this, grab the side seams to be worked on through the back right side seam and sew them together.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the sewn side seam.

Work the right side seam as far as you can get. A piece of the side seam in the lining remains open.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the sewn side seam.

Close the opening in the lining with just the edges together.

Bar the raised seam allowances through lining and outer fabric: at the shoulder point, neckline shoulder point, armpit point and side seam hem.

Your COLETTE is ready!

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.