Our Aimee dress pattern is perfect for really hot summer days. With a neckholder band, back cut-out and wide, swinging, knee-length skirt, it sits pleasantly loose and airy. A beautiful print comes into its own with this dress.
Center back length = 82 - 84 cm (back opening)
The Aimee dress is a somewhat more elaborate but very chic summer dress with a zip, halterneck tie and two built-in bonings in the back. This example was sewn from a flowing cotton fabric and a lining fabric.
→ To the dress pattern “ Aimee”
Required material:
We recommend a light fabric such as cotton, viscose or silk. If it is opaque, you can also do without the lining, but then work the upper part twice for the purpose of processing.
For all sizes:
- Outer fabric 2.00m (140cm wide)
- Lining 2.00m (140cm wide)
- Elastic band 1 x 46cm (1cm wide)
- Seam zipper 1 x 35cm
- Plastic sticks 2 x 16cm long
cutting:
Cut the pattern pieces out of fabric and transfer the notches from the pattern. In addition to the description, the colorful brackets in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn.
- 1x upper VT in break (outer fabric & lining)
- 1x front skirt part in break (outer fabric & lining)
- 1x medium RT in the break (outer fabric & lining)
- 1x side RTs opposite (outer fabric & lining)
- 1x rear skirt part in break (outer fabric & lining)
- 1 concealed zip
- 1 elastic band
- 2 sticks
sewing instructions
Transfer the markings for the dart to the front piece (see needles). Place the two side needles right sides together and pin this in place.
The left needle shows where the dart should end. Sew your dart along these needles. Sew the four darts in total with your sewing machine and, when you get close to the end, choose a very small straight stitch so you don't have to bartack the end of the seam. Fold up the darts, iron them and pin them in place for later.
Fold the side RT onto the middle RT, right sides together, and sew. You do the same thing a total of 4 times. There is also a special feature with the lining: stitch a wide seam 2-3mm away from the open edge, so that a narrow tunnel is created within the NZ. You carefully push the chopstick into this.
Tunnel variant 1
Sew the tunnels up and down with a few stitches so that the sticks cannot slip out. Lay the now finished upper RT on the upper VT right sides together and close what will later be the right side seam (here on the left in the picture), the later left side seam remains open because of the zipper. So that I know which ones remain open, I marked them with purple brackets. Repeat with the lining. Just make sure that the other side seam remains open here, as the lining will later be the opposite of the outer fabric.
Place the upper lining part right sides together on the outer fabric and close the back upper edge and the two armholes. Here, too, the later left side seam remains open, as does the front upper edge.
Place your elastic along the top edge of the outer fabric's RT on the wrong side, just below the seam. On the left, at the already closed side seam, you sew the elastic band with a few stitches on the side seam on my finger. Then fold the lining back over the elastic, left sides together, and sew a tunnel about 1.3mm wide. Make sure you don't sew on the elastic, it should be able to move freely. Of course you can't sew over the double crochet, so you have to lock the seam before and after each double crochet.
Tunnel variant 2
About 2.5cm of the tunnel remains empty at the top, as the elastic band will be sewn on here later. Sew the tunnels up and down with a few stitches so that the sticks cannot slip out. Lay the now finished upper RT on the upper VT right sides together and close what will later be the right side seam (here on the left in the picture), the later left side seam remains open because of the zipper. So that I know which ones remain open, I marked them with purple brackets.
Repeat with the lining. Just make sure that the other side seam remains open here, as the lining will later be the opposite of the outer fabric.
Place the upper lining part right sides together on the outer fabric and close the back upper edge and the two armholes. Here, too, the later left side seam remains open, as does the front upper edge. Place your elastic along the top edge of the outer fabric's RT on the wrong side, just below the seam. On the left, at the already closed side seam, you sew the elastic band with a few stitches on the side seam on my finger. Then fold the lining back over the elastic, left sides together, and sew a tunnel about 1.3mm wide. Make sure you don't sew on the elastic, it should be able to move freely.
Continue with both variants
Sew the other end of the rubber band about 1.5 cm in front of the side edge, since the zipper will be sewn in here later. You can see that again in detail here. Where the needle is, I sewed the rubber end.
Measure at the side seam of the skirt where your zipper will go. On this later left side, sew the two side edges together right sides together slightly below this point. Sew the other side seam completely together. You do the same thing with the lining material – just in opposite directions.
Fold the lining of the upper dress away from the outer fabric, because now the skirt parts will be sewn to the bodices. Sew the skirt part of the outer fabric right sides together to the lower edge of the upper outer dress, from the open side seam to the other open side seam. Lay the seam allowances opposite to the already closed side seam for a clean result.
Then fold away the outer fabric so that your lining is in front of you, right side of the fabric facing up. Now place the skirt part of the lining right sides together and close from the open side seam to the other. Lay the seam allowances opposite to the already closed side seam for a clean result.
Neaten the edges of the side seams that are still open, where the zipper will now be sewn in. Lay the zipper down with its right side facing up. Attention: with a seam-concealed zipper, the teeth are at the bottom, not at the top. Unzip the zipper a good bit and then place the part below with its right side on the right side of the outer fabric above.
Start directly at the upper seam transition from the lining to the outer fabric and fold the upper end outwards at a right angle. Then you pin this zipper part to the entire open side edge of the outer fabric. The teeth point inwards, upwards.
Now you take the lining at the upper edge and place it exactly on top of the zipper so that the seam transition remains at the top point. The lining is also pinned all the way to the end of the zipper.
Sew on the zipper with your zipper foot. Make sure that all three edges are exactly flush.
Repeat with the other half of the zipper on the other side of the dress. Then you close the small open gap of the side seam of the outer fabric and the inner fabric.
If you start the lower side seam of the dress just before the end of the zipper, you will get a clean transition.
Neaten the hem of the outer fabric as well as the lining. Fold the hem allowance of the lining and the outer fabric inwards and stitch them tight. Finish the two upper edges that are still open together.
Using the marking on the pattern, fold the top edge inwards and stitch. This is how your tunnel is created.
Fold the tie in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew all open edges together. Leave a small turning opening in the middle, through which you then turn the ribbon. After turning, iron the ribbon nicely and topstitch it all around with a tight edge. This automatically closes the turning opening.
Use a safety pin to pull the ribbon through the tunnel. Tie the ribbon in a bow at the neck, feel free to gather the drawstring a bit.
This is what your dress looks like from the back. Congratulations, the dress Aimee is finished!
The post Sewing instructions for the dress “Aimee” first appeared on Blog Schnittmuster Berlin .
