Sewing instructions for the Patricia blouse
Along with negligees and dressing gowns, pajamas are no longer just for bed, but also suitable for everyday wear, the office, and parties. Our Patrizia pajama blouse has a more classic fit, yet is still casual enough to live up to its name. The rounded lapel collar, shirt-sleeve slit, and cuff are quite a sewing challenge in themselves. To top off the sophisticated craftsmanship, you can sew a finished piping in a contrasting color along the edges of the collar, lapel, and front hem. Length at the center back = 62-70 cm.
The chic and elaborate Patricia blouse was sewn in this tutorial from a cotton fabric with viscose content.
→ To the “Patricia Blouse” pattern
Required materials:
We recommend soft flowing materials such as viscose, silk or polyester satin
| Size 34-40 | Outer fabric | 1.45 m | 140 cm wide |
| Size 42-50 | Outer fabric | 1.70 m | 140 cm wide |
| Size 34-50 | insert | 0.75 m | 90 cm wide |
| Size 34-50 | buttons | 9 pieces | 10 mm diameter |
| Size 34-50 | Piping tape | 2.00 m |
Cutting:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!
Cut the pattern pieces out of fabric and transfer the notches from the pattern. The colored clips in the pictures show you where to sew a seam, in addition to the description.
You need:
- 1x front part opposite
- 1x front receipt opposite
- 1x back part in the fracture
- 1x lower collar in the fold
- 1x upper collar in the break
- 1x sleeve opposite
- 2x cuff
- 2x bias strips
- 1x bag
- 1x pocket receipt
- Piping and buttons
Sewing instructions:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!
Place the dart notches right sides together and mark the point.
Now sew inward from the side, reducing the straight stitch to about 1.0-1.5mm just before the dart's tip, so you don't need to tack the seam. Iron the dart upwards.
The blouse will have a breast pocket on the left side. Neaten all edges of the pocket and the pocket facing.
Attach piping to the top edge of the bag, right sides together, and fold the ends upwards.
Position the pocket facing right sides together on top and sew the two sides and the top edge together. Turn the pocket right side out and press the seam allowance of the bottom curve inward.
Position the pocket on the left front piece using the pattern and sew it to the sides and curve.
Iron the bag nice and flat.
Place one front piece and the matching facing piece in front of you. Neaten the inner edge of the facing (red clips) and the short shoulder seam, and on the front piece, neaten the bottom edge up to the corner (blue clips). Also neaten the hem of the back of your blouse.
Starting at the notch (here, the red clip), place the piping, right sides together, along the front edge down to the mark on the pattern (where you'll later hem the bottom edge). Pin it securely in place and place the facing on top, right sides together. Sew this pinned section in place, leaving the needle in the fabric at the lower mark, lift the presser foot, and rotate the fabric layers so that you can now continue sewing the bottom edge to the end of the facing.
At the curve, it's helpful to clip the seam allowance just before the seam. Turn the front piece right side out and iron it thoroughly.
Repeat this with the other front piece.
Thanks to the lower "notch" and your seam, the hem will automatically fold upwards by its hem allowance, creating a neat finish. Iron the remaining hem inward.
Place both front pieces right sides together on the back piece and close the shoulder seams without sewing in the facing.
Now prepare the collar of your blouse: Place the two collar pieces right sides together. From the bottom left edge up to the bottom right edge, tuck another piping ribbon between the two layers.
Close this seam where the piping runs.
Turn the collar right side out and iron it flat. It's helpful to clip the seam allowance on the curves just before the seam.
Press both lower edges of the collar inward, leaving a seam allowance. Then, pin the edge of the lower collar, right sides together, to the neckline, starting and ending exactly where the facing's piping begins.
Sew the bottom collar to the neck hole.
Now take the top end of the receipt…
… and place it over the collar, right sides together, on the seam you just closed.
Pin and stitch it exactly along the seam. Repeat on the other side.
Fold the remaining seam allowance of the collar inwards, towards the collar, and pin the ironed lower edge of the upper collar piece onto it.
Sew this in place.
Then close the side seams of your blouse right sides together and iron the hem allowance of the back piece inwards.
Stitch the hem of your blouse from facing to facing, close to the edge.
Now it's time for the sleeves. Each sleeve has two notches for a pleat and a slit.
Pin the bias strip, right side facing, to the left side of the slit. When sewing, make sure to leave the needle in the fabric at the end of the slit, raise the presser foot, and turn the fabric without creating a crease. Sew on the rest of the strip.
Place the sleeve right side down in front of you. The seam allowance should face the bias strip. Fold the top edge inward up to the seam allowance...
...and then again over the seam. Sew it close to the edge.
To ensure that the beginning of the slit lies nicely, it is helpful to briefly stitch the bias strip there from the left at a 45° angle.
This way, one half of the slit fits nicely over the other.
Place the fold towards the slit and pin it in place.
Close the side seam of the sleeve right sides together.
Iron the cuff in the middle and the top and bottom edges inwards by the seam allowance.
Pin the cuff to the cuff at the top edge, right sides together. It extends 1cm at each end.
Sew the cuff on.
Now place one side right sides together in the center of the ironed edge and close the seam. This seam runs directly past the slit (pin). Trim the seam allowance slightly, repeat with the other side seam, and then turn the cuff right side out.
If you sew accurately, you'll have a clean transition from the slit to the cuff. Fold the still-open, ironed edge of the cuff over the seam...
...and pin it securely. Sew this side close to the edge.
Repeat these steps for the other sleeve.
Pin the matching sleeve into your blouse, right sides together. Make sure the corresponding side seams (red clips) and the shoulder seam line up with the markings on the pattern. Sew the sleeve cap all the way around. Do the same with the other sleeve.
Transfer the buttonhole markings to the overlap of your cuff and sew the buttonholes with your machine.
Repeat this for the other sleeve. Then sew two buttons onto each underlap. Repeat the same process for the overlap and underlap of both front pieces.
Congratulations, your blouse PATRICIA is finished!
If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.
