SEWING INSTRUCTIONS SHIRT “HANIFA”

Our sewing pattern for the Hanifa blouse is a casual shirt blouse that belongs in every wardrobe. The hidden button placket and the yoke at the back complete this classic blouse.

Length in the middle back = 78 – 82 cm

→ To the pattern “Hanifa”

In this pattern, Hanifa was sewn from a soft and shiny viscose.

Required material:

We recommend a flowing silk, viscose or polyester fabric.

Sizes 34-38	Outer fabric	1.60 m	140cm wide
	inlay	0.60 m	90cm wide
	Buttons	11 pcs.	1cm diameter
Sizes 40-50	Outer fabric	2.20 m	140cm wide
	inlay	0.60 m	90cm wide
	Buttons	12 pcs.	1cm diameter

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the yoke, back, collar stand, lower and upper collar in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts, note that bust darts must be used from size 42. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

 

What you need from fabric:

• 1x back part in the break
• 2x yoke at the back in the fold
• 1x front part on the right
• 1x front part on the left
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions
• 2x ribbon slot

also with insert:

• 2x collar band in the break
• 1x upper collar in the break
• 1x undercollar in the break
• 2x cuffs in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

To prepare, the front pieces are ironed first. The underlay, so to speak the left front part, is ironed over. To do this, fold the front edge in twice and over.

The buttons will be sewn onto this later, which is why there is no need for extra stitching because the buttons will later fix the underlay.

The special thing about our Hanifa blouse is the hidden button placket on the top, basically the right front part. This is also prepared by ironing. To do this, iron the second clip from the front edge, left to left.

The fourth clip from the front edge is ironed one more time. What has already been ironed remains ironed and tucked in.

This is what the result looks like after ironing in a close-up view.

After we have prepared this, clips 1 and clips 3 are now on top of each other. At this point, the ironed item is ironed back to the front edge. This creates a hidden button placket. Please note that the underlay needs to be shorter so that it doesn't show through. That's why the distances between the snapshots are of different lengths.

This is what the result looks like after ironing in a close-up view.

Finally, the hidden button placket is stitched in place (secured) by sewing a seam that is stitched exactly in the fold of what was previously ironed.

Please note that bust darts must be used from size 42. If you have a smaller size, you can skip the next two steps.

We continue with sewing the bust darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the dart contents upwards.

Our Hanifa blouse has a box pleat in the middle back. Lay these according to the cut and stitch them in place with an auxiliary seam. The pattern part for the upper back is called the yoke. The back part can be sewn with folds or gathered. The yoke often ends at the shoulder seam, but can also be brought forward slightly.

Fits can be straight, slanted or pointed. If you look at a garment from the inside, you will notice that the yoke is doubled, i.e. a yoke is counter-sewn from the inside. So the seams are nicely hidden and clean.

First, pin the yoke pieces to the back piece with pins. The back part is enclosed by the yoke. Place the yoke that will be on the outside right sides together. Place the inner yoke with the right side on the left side of the back piece.

The clip in the middle back allows you to easily place all the pattern pieces on top of each other. Starting from the center back, pin left and right to the end of the seam.

These three layers are now sewn together with a 1cm seam allowance, so the first seam is covered.

You fold the outer yoke up and iron the seam nicely. Then it's time to connect the yoke to the front in the shoulder area. First, sew only the outer yoke together with the respective front pieces, right sides together, and press the seam allowances to the back.

Here we have photographed the other side for a better understanding. The inner yoke is visibly folded down. The inner yoke is folded to the shoulder seam. Then you crawl from the open neck hole into the shoulder seam and grab the 3 seam allowances. You sew these three layers together. The outer yoke, right to right, is on the front piece and the inner yoke, right to left, is on the front piece. Then you can simply pull out the contents and your yoke is beautifully finished. The seam allowances point towards the back, i.e. into the yoke, and lie neatly between the inside and outside yoke.

Iron the whole thing flat, making sure not to flatten the box crease.

To continue working, we pinned the layers at the neck and armholes together with a large stitch. So nothing shifts anymore.

A little tip: We stitched the yokes just edge away from the seam.

The side seams are closed, right sides together. Then neaten the seam allowances together and iron them backwards.

The sleeve has a cuff with a so-called rolled slit. Start with slot processing. To do this, place the slit strip, right to left, under the notch in the sleeve. Place both under your sewing machine and now sew the strip with the same edge as the incision, starting at 0.7cm. At the top of the cut the seam allowance is only approx. 2mm and at the end it ends at 0.7cm. This means the incision runs straight from 0.7cm to 0.2cm and back to 0.7cm while the seam allowance of the slit strip always remains at the same distance (see photo). 

The slit strip is then ironed over.  To complete the slit, the slit strip only needs to be folded in and out twice and the edge stitched through from the right side.

Now you can fix the upper corner of the slit on the inside of the sleeve with an upward slanting seam.

Now the slit can be finished and ironed to the correct side. The top flap is ironed once and stitched in place. The underpass remains flat. For orientation purposes, the photo above is of the left arm; a slit can always be opened backwards when tightened. Cut the slit strip at the beginning and end to the correct length of the sleeve.

After the slit has been made, the folds of the sleeve can be folded as shown in the pattern. Orient yourself by the clips and the directional arrows in the section. Secure the folds with a seam the width of a quilting foot.

Now close the sleeve seam and finish the seam allowances together. These are then ironed backwards.

There are two variants for cuff processing. The first variant is the simpler one, in which you stitch the cuff all around the edge. But if you don't want to have quilting on your cuff and you're a sewing professional, then go for the second option.

Variant 1: Iron the lower cut edge of the inner cuff with 1cm...

... and sew the raw edge of the outer cuff to the prepared sleeve. Sew up to the snap of the underlay. For orientation purposes, the photos above are of the right arm; one cuff can always be opened backwards when tightened.

The cuff is then placed, right sides together, against the fold and the corners of the top and bottom stitches are stitched. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened and cut or cut off with scissors. This means that the corners don't become too thick when turned and the seam allowances can be laid nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out. Finally, sew the previously ironed raw edge of the inner cuff in place by stitching the entire cuff around the edge from the outside (right side of the fabric).

Variant 2: Sew the raw edge of the outer cuff to the prepared sleeve. Sew up to the snap of the underlay. For orientation purposes, the photos above are of the right arm; one cuff can always be opened backwards when tightened. Fold the marked corners on the photo together, against the break, right sides together. To stitch the corners, push the fabric away from the sleeve so that you don't accidentally sew the sleeve on.

Stitch the corners of the top and bottom steps. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened and cut or cut off with scissors. This means that the corners don't become too thick when turned and the seam allowances can be laid nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out.

Finally, sew the hole on the inner cuff by stitching through from the outside (right side of the fabric) in the shadow of the seam and rolling the seam allowance of the hole slightly outwards. It's best to pin this place specifically. Or sew the hole closed by hand, that is also an option.

Now the sleeve is complete and can be sewn into the prepared body, right sides together. Pay attention to the clips in the cut. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed into the sleeve.

The hem is double folded and folded over with 0.5cm and just stitched through the edge.

Now let's move on to processing the shirt collar. The collar bar is prepared for this. Iron the outer bar with 1cm.

The upper and lower collars are placed on top of each other, right sides together, and stitched with one centimeter. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened and cut or cut off with scissors. This means that the corners don't become too thick when turned and the seam allowances can be laid nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out.

Secure the roll width in the collar with an auxiliary seam. This is necessary so that the shirt collar fits nicely around the curve and there is enough material. That's why the upper and lower collars are different sizes.

Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outer edges, this will flatten them nicely and secure them.

Here Ellen shows you how the collar should roll. View of the bottom and top.

The upper and lower collars are aligned and can now be connected to the collar band. To do this, take the inner bar and place it, right sides together, on the upper collar.

The pre-ironed outer band is then stitched, right sides together, onto the inner band and undercollar.

Before we can stitch the collar to the body, the buttonholes must be made on the hidden button placket on the right side of the body. To do this, draw the positions of the buttonholes from the cut onto the hidden button placket and stitch through them.

Now the collar is sewn in place by pinning the inner band, right to left, to the neck hole and stitching it in place.

The collar is ironed upwards and the seam allowance is in the collar. The previously ironed outer bar is stitched in place with a seam close to the edge. You can then stitch through the entire collar stand with a seam close to the edge.

Finally, all the buttons on the left side of the body, the collar band and the two cuffs are sewn into place.

Your HANIFA is ready !

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.