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You can implement the modern high-waisted trouser shape with the Ücke pattern. The jeans look is created by the slanted pockets and the decorative patch pockets. In terms of comfort, an elastic band in the back waistband and small pleats in the front part provide support.

The trousers are 108 cm long, including the waistband.

In these instructions, Ücke was sewn from an elastic denim fabric.

→ To the pattern “Ücke”

In advance for you as information:

Required material:

We recommend a heavy and flowing fabric, such as soft denim with elastane.

Sizes 34-42

• Outer fabric 2.20 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 2.50 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

• Insert 0.10 m (90 cm wide)
• Rubber 0.35 - 0.50 m (3 cm wide)
• Button 1 piece 12 mm diameter
• Ripper 1 piece 17 cm long

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining . Lay the fabric right side up. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the thread up arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk . Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define the positions of dart ends , pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or a pin n. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

If you want to make your stitch out of corduroy, note that corduroy is cut against the grain. We have a video for you about this.

If you want to make your Ücket out of plaid fabric, then note that the pattern pieces of the pockets and the entire waistband are cut diagonally with the grain.

In this video, Dagmar shows you the best way to cut checked fabric.

You need from fabric:

• 2x hind trousers in opposite directions
• 2x front trousers in opposite directions
• 1x belt loop
• 2x pocket bags in opposite directions
• 1x understep
• 2x pocket on the back bottom
• 2x pockets on the back

also with insert:

• 1x waistband
• 1x top step zipper

also with band:

• 2x pocket openings on pocket pouch

Sewing instructions:

To sew these pants you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

If you use a seam zipper, you also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Prepare the left front part as follows: Cut away the top step of the left side of the body along the line in the pattern and iron it over according to the pattern.

Start your pants with the front pockets. To do this, place the pocket bags left sides together on the respective front trousers and stitch through with 1cm. Iron the seam allowances towards the bag to be able to turn it right sides together later.

Here you can see the sewn pocket bags and ironed top and bottom flaps.

Turn the bags right sides together and stitch through the opening just under the edge and a stitching foot wide.

Now place the pocket bags on top of each other, right sides together, and stitch the bottom edge shut. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut. Then neaten the seam allowances together.

You secure the front pocket with a 3cm long quilting at the bottom and at the top just under the edge and the width of your quilting foot.

Now come to neaten the pattern pieces all around. Neaten the prepared front pieces,…

... the back parts, ...

...the top and bottom edges of the back pockets, the top edge of the back pocket below, the underflap and one long side of the belt loop.

Next up is sewing the waist darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart content towards the center back.

Now prepare the rear patch pocket by placing both pieces right sides together and sewing them together. Then iron the trimmed seam allowances apart.

Stitch the seam allowances flat by stitching through the edges on both sides. I also recommend that you sew an auxiliary seam with a large stitch in the pocket curves, as the curves are easier to iron afterwards.

In this video we show you the best way to use the rear patch pocket ironing template.

Now iron the seam allowances all around and the pocket opening. Use the provided template for the cut.

Stitch through the pocket opening according to the pattern.

Now place the prepared rear pockets, wrong sides together, on the markings in the pattern of the rear trousers parts and secure both pockets all around with a narrow edge and a seam the width of a quilting foot.

The front pants are right sides together on the back pants and you close the side seam, which is then ironed apart.

Prepare the hem according to the pattern and press it down.

Now we come to the inner leg seams of the trouser legs, which are closed together right sides together. Orientate yourself on the snaps in the cut and stretch the shorter section of the hind pants a little. Iron these seam allowances apart as well.

The next step is to close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg to the right (right side outside) and the other trouser leg (wrong side outside). Tuck the pant leg (right side out) into the other pant leg. Pin the seat seam together so that it lies nicely straight and sew it together a short piece (see photo). Make sure that the inner leg seams are exactly on top of each other.

For a better understanding of how to sew in your zipper and make all the preparations beforehand, we have prepared a video for you here.

Take the zip and the prepared slip to hand. Sew the zipper to the underlay. Do not topstitch too close to the ripper bar so that the slider does not get caught later.

The ironed underlay is pinned and sewn to the zipper side with the slip on the left side of the body.

Pin the front centers together to help. This will make it easier for you to pin the other side of the zipper.

Lay the pants neatly in front of you so that the flap covers the zipper and pin the flap to the zipper with a pin. Then fold the sewn-on underlap to the side and sew the zipper through the overlap at 2cm (or 3cm wide) next to the break in the center front. End about 2cm above the zipper end and lock this point.

Now stitch through the decorative seam and securing of the step while the understep is folded away. Lock just before the understep begins.

Fold back the underlay under the zip and stitch (depending on the design) in a curve or at an angle to the center front on the corner of the crotch seam through the top flap, zip and underlap, bar tack at the crotch seam.

Now sew the rest of the seat seam right sides together and topstitch twice for double security. Press the center back seam allowances open up to the snap in the crotch.

When cutting out the belt loops, iron the unfinished edge by 1 cm and the finished edge by 1 cm. Finally, stitch along the long sides, each 0.2 cm wide. Cut the strip into 6 pieces of equal length.

Lay the pleats according to the pattern and secure them with an auxiliary seam the width of a quilting foot.

Stitch your tailored belt loops right sides together to the markings on the pattern just under the edge and 1.5cm below.

Now come to the processing of the federal government. Iron the fold of the waistband left sides together according to the cut. Then iron over the seam allowance of the inner waistband with 1cm.

Now fold the waistband together and sew an auxiliary seam onto the outer waistband with a large stitch right next to the ironed edge of the inner waistband.

Now sew the waistband onto the trousers, right sides together. Make sure to stitch to the left of the auxiliary seam on the outer waistband. Press the seam allowances up. Also check that the height of the waistband is correct at the front when you close the zipper.

You turn the short stretches of the federal government right sides together.

Now come to processing the tunnel in the back waistband by later pulling in the elastic. Stitch the inner waistband in the shadow of the seam from side seam to side seam.

You can then pull the elastic into the tunnel at the right length and fasten it to the side seam.

You topstitch the front waistband parts just under the edge and a stitching foot wide up to the respective side seams.

Lay the belt loops upwards, check the length you want for a belt, fold over 1cm of the seam allowance and pin the edges tight. Also make the buttonhole on the right side of the body.

Lay the belt loops upwards, check the length you want for a belt, fold over 1cm of the seam allowance and pin the edges tight.

Sew on a matching button.

Your ÜCKE is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.