Emilea – as the name suggests, was created in cooperation with Manu from @emilea-berlin. Your idea, our know-how, resulted in a variable hoodie . So you have the choice between the more sporty version with a hood and the more classic one with a round neck. A Manu garment always has special details - here the quilted breast pocket with a seam zipper and the patch pocket on the upper arm, also with a small zippered pocket. Added to this are the sophisticated dividing seams in the body and sleeves and the unusual cord exit in the hood. This sweater has an incredible amount of design potential and sewn from different fabrics, you can always create a completely new, stylish top.
Length in the center back = 60 – 66 cm
In these instructions, Emilea was sewn from a sweater sweater fabric.
Required material:
We recommend a heavy jersey or sweat fabric.
| Size 34-42 | Outer fabric with hood | 1.70 m | 140cm wide |
| Size 34-42 | Outer material without hood | 1.30 m | 140cm wide |
| Size 44-50 | Outer fabric with hood | 2.10 m | 140cm wide |
| Size 44-50 | Outer material without hood | 1.80 m | 140cm wide |
| Size 34-50 | cuffs | 0.10m | 140cm wide |
| Size 34-50 | Cord band | 1.25m | up to 2 cm wide |
| Size 34-50 | Zipper for sleeve pocket | 1 piece | 12cm long |
| Size 34-42 | Zipper for chest pocket | 1 piece | 12cm long |
| Size 44-50 | Zipper for chest pocket | 1 piece | 13cm long |
Cutting:
Cut the pattern pieces from your fabrics . Lay the fabric with the right side of the fabric facing up. Place the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the back piece and yoke back piece in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie with the writing facing up and be placed on the right side of the fabric - pay particular attention to this with the front piece and yoke front piece so that the pocket sits on the correct side, left side of the body. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts, note that bust darts must be used for larger sizes. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends , pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.
Variant 1: Neck cuffs
What you need from fabric:
- 1x cuffs in the break
- 1x back part in the break
- 1x yoke back part in the break
- 2x undersleeves
- 2x yoke
- 2x upper sleeves (plus drill holes on the left side of the sleeve!)
- 1x neck cuff
- 2x cuffs
- 1x sleeve pocket 1
- 1x sleeve pocket 3
- 1x pocket bag
- 1x sleeve pocket 2 (plus 1x drill hole)
- 1x yoke front part
- 1x VT (plus drill holes)
also with insert:
- Front zipper
Variant 2: Hood
What you need from fabric:
- 1x cuffs in the break
- 1x back part in the break
- 1x yoke back part in the break
- 2x undersleeves
- 2x yoke
- 2x upper sleeves (plus drill holes on the left side of the sleeve!)
- 2x middle hood
- 4x hood (plus 2x drill holes only on the outer hood!)
- 2x arm cuffs
- 1x sleeve pocket 1
- 1x sleeve pocket 3
- 1x pocket bag
- 1x sleeve pocket 2 (plus 1x drill hole)
- 1x yoke front part
- 1x VT (plus drill holes)
also with insert:
- 2x outer hood on the left side of the fabric with drill holes
- Front zipper on the left side of the fabric
Sewing instructions:
To sew this hoodie you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the raw edges.
Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretchy stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a household sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch Neaten so they don't fray. If you use a seam zipper, you will also need the right sewing foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
For a cut from size 44 to 50 there is an extra bust dart.
First things first: So let's start with the pocket on the left sleeve. We made the bag from a different colored cotton fabric, here dark blue, because it is a little thinner and therefore easier to process.
Start by neatening the edge of the top pocket (pocket 3), ironing the clips and topstitching the edge.
On the side to be stitched, iron the seam allowance and sew the pocket, facing the drill hole, onto the bottom pocket (pocket 2), just under the edge. To lock it, sew a triangle at the top opening.
Now put the zipper in your bag, using a special foot. We used an endless ripper, which also needs to be secured with a small piece of fabric at the bottom.
Now you can sew the entire pocket onto your left sleeve, following the markings in the pattern.
The upper and lower sleeves are now sewn together and the seam allowances are finished together. Make sure to process the front dividing seam first, then place the seam allowances upwards (towards the pocket) and topstitch at a quilting foot width.
Now you can close the back seam of the sleeve, neaten the seam allowances together and iron them smooth. You process the second sleeve in the same way as the first, only without the pocket.
For the cuffs we used the same fabric as the outer fabric. You can also use cuffs here. You close the cuffs, right sides together, in a round and iron the seam allowances apart. At the same time, you iron the cuffs in a fold, left sides together, and you can insert them, right sides together, into the sleeves. The cuff seam lies on the back sleeve seam. Now, too, neaten up the seam allowances and iron them upwards.
Now let's move on to the zipper pocket in the front part: Sew the zipper to the front part with a special foot, cut the corners down to the last stitch so that the seam allowances can be put away nice and straight and the zipper looks neat. You can also take a look at the blog post from emilea.berlin.
With a stitching foot-wide seam all around, you can additionally secure the seam allowance and the zipper.
Sew the front yoke to the previously prepared front piece, paying attention to the clips.
The pocket bag is finished around the curves before you sew it in. We used a template (without seam allowances) to sew the bag on, so you can easily sew the curves. Simply place it on the zipper from the right and stitch along the edge of the paper.
Now neaten the seam allowances of the yoke and the front part, as well as the upper piece of the pocket bag, iron the seam allowance upwards and secure it with a seam the width of a quilting foot.
Now let's come to the yoke, which is sewn, right sides together, to the back of the yoke. Here too, neaten up the seam allowances, iron them upwards and topstitch them to the width of a quilting foot. Now sew the yoke at the back, right sides together, to the back piece, neaten up the seam allowances, iron upwards and sew in place at a quilting foot width.
Now sew the entire material, right sides together, onto the front piece. Always orientate yourself on the snapshots, which clearly show how the routes fit together. Stitch all marked seams to a foot width.
The side seam of the front and back pieces, right sides together, unites them together and closes the torso. Neaten the seam allowances together and iron them smooth towards the back.
For the hem cuff we used the same fabric as the outer fabric. You can also use cuffs here. You close the cuff, right sides together, in the round and iron the seam allowances apart. At the same time you iron the cuff, left sides together, in a fold and you can attach it, right sides together, to the hem. Now, too, neaten up the seam allowances and iron them upwards.
Now you can almost finish the hoodie. To do this, sew the sleeves, right sides together, into the body part (pay attention to the clips and dividing seams), neaten up the seam allowances and iron them smooth. Now all you have to do is decide on a neck hole variant. We have sewn both for you to see better.
Variant 1: Neck cuffs: You close the cuffs, right sides together, in the round and iron the seam allowances apart. At the same time you iron the cuffs, left sides together, in a fold and you can sew it into the neck hole of the hoodie. The seam is on the right shoulder. Here too, pay attention to the clips marked in the section. Finish the seam allowances together and iron them down.
FYI: The length of the neck hole strip always depends on the elasticity of the cuff material. This means that if the rib is very elastic, the cuff must be cut shorter.
Variant 2: Hood: Put the hood together from 2 outer parts and 1 middle part, right sides together. You do the whole thing twice. Iron the seam allowances apart. You have marked the drill holes for the buttonholes on the outer hood.
Sew your buttonholes for your cord exit (3 on the right side and 3 on the left) in the correct width. Now you can put both hoods together.
Stitch the drawstring at 4cm from the edge of the fall. The hood is now sewn to the neckline, right sides together. Make sure you have the right clips and that the hood has an overhang of 2cm. Finish the seam allowances together and iron them down.
Lastly, thread your cord.
Your EMILEA is ready!
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.
