Sewing instructions for Jagna trousers

9 janvier 2024

The Jagna women's trousers meet the current trend Body-hugging and casual.
The These slim-fitting trousers, which reach to the hips, can be perfectly combined with crop tops or short sweaters. For those who prefer to wear longer tops, Jagna is also an essential pair of trousers, because the The figure-hugging shape at the hips and buttocks does not add bulk under a blouse or sweater.
A Formbund guarantees a good fit for the pure front view The zipper was placed on the side.
Towards the hem, the Widely flared trouser legs create a figure-hugging, yet flattering and flowing shape.
Seam pockets are located in the front dividing seams.

Side length including waistband = 108cm, hem width = 51-60cm

Jagna was sewn from Tencel in this tutorial.

Materials needed:

We recommend a flowing fabric, e.g. a Viscose/polyester blend , one Wool georgette, cotton or denim fabric or Tencel.

Sizes 34-42 Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	2.10 m 2.30 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	Lining	0.20 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	insert	0.65 m	90 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	Seam ripper	1 piece	25 cm long

Cut:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric, and interfacing. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center. All pattern pieces should be placed with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the dart ends. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these using either chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut out all outer fabric pieces that will be fully interfaced first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut them out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need the following fabric:

2x front trousers, mirror images
2x front side panel, mirror image
2x back pants, mirror images

also with insert:

2x pocket receipt, mirror image
1x waistband front inside
1x front outer waistband
1x waistband at the back inside
1x back outer waistband

Additionally, iron on bias tape:

1x waistband front inside
1x waistband at the back inside
left side seam at the top for the seam ripper

You will need the following lining fabric:

2x inner pocket bags, opposite each other
2x pocket bags, opposite each other

Sewing instructions:

To sew these trousers you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.

If you're using an invisible zipper, you'll also need the appropriate presser foot for your sewing machine. The colored lines in the pictures, in addition to the written description, show you where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

You start by working on the seam pockets in the front side seam.

Finish the raw edges of the pocket lining, the inside of the pocket bag, and the front side panel at the points marked in green. Then, place the lining wrong side up onto the right side of the pocket bag and stitch it in place. Sew the inside of the pocket bag to the side panel, right sides together.

Sew the pocket bag with the facing to the front piece, right sides together. Topstitch the seam allowance onto the facing, see yellow line.

Now you can finish the front crotch seam and the longitudinal seams on the front and front side panels.

Now place the front piece and the front side piece right sides together so that the pocket bags are aligned and close the pocket bag together with the front side seam in one go.

Now you finish the edges of the pocket.

The pocket opening is secured at the top and bottom with 2-3 stitches, and the pocket bags are fixed with a basting stitch at the waist.

Next, you'll work on the back.

You finish the raw edges of the lengthwise seams and the back crotch seam. Then you sew the dart.

A simple, straight dart is created, after the pattern has been accurately transferred and the markings carefully observed, on the wrong side of the fabric, notch to notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the point. (with it (The dart doesn't bunch up) closed and sewn. Draw a line beforehand with tailor's chalk so you don't sew too much or too little and the waist seam finishes nice and straight.
To avoid having to backstitch at the point, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart's contents towards the center back.

Now place the front and back pieces right sides together and sew the side seam and the inseam. Note: the left side seam is only sewn from the bottom up to the mark for the seam ripper.

The inseams can now be sewn together, right sides facing. Don't be surprised if the distance between the seat and knee is slightly shorter on the back of the pants than on the front. Stretch this section a little so it fits. This cutting trick ensures a better fit for the pants.

All seam allowances are pressed open.

You should now have two identical trouser legs.

Next, close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one pant leg right side out and insert it into the other, unturned pant leg. This will ensure the crotch seam lies perfectly straight, making it easy to sew. Make sure the inseams are aligned. Double-stitch this seam. Press the seam allowances open from the waist to the curve.

Now it's up to the federal government.

Sew the right side seam of the front and back outer waistband and the front and back inner waistband together, right sides facing. Press the seam allowances open.

The bottom edge of the waistband can now be finished.

To prevent your waistband from stretching, the upper edge of the inner waistband is reinforced with a 12mm wide bias tape in addition to the interfacing. This tape is available from Vlieseline, among other retailers: https://www.vlieseline.com/Produkte/Baender/Formband.

The outer waistband is sewn to the waist.

Now you need to attach the appropriate zipper foot to your machine. There are several types of zipper feet. This is one of them.

Next, insert the seam ripper into the side seam of both the front and back pieces, up to the top edge of the waistband. Remember to allow a 1.5 cm seam allowance.

Secure the seam ripper ends with a few stitches on the seam allowance.