Sewing instructions for Kira trousers

3 avril 2024

→ To the “Kira” sewing pattern

Level Intermediate - for experienced users

Side length including waistband = 109 cm, hem width = 48-57 cm

Materials needed:

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Sizes 34-40 : Outer fabric 2.00m (140cm wide)

Feed 0.30m (140cm wide)

Insert 0.70m (90cm wide)

Seam ripper 1 x 22cm

Sizes 42-50 : Outer fabric 2.20m (140cm wide)

Feed 0.30m (140cm wide)

Insert 0.70m (90cm wide)

Concealed zipper 1 x 22cm

Kira was chosen in this guide from Linen Sewn. …and let me tell you: linen wrinkles beautifully, and always does. Go for a linen blend instead!!!

Cut:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center. All pattern pieces should be placed with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the dart ends. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut out all outer fabric pieces that will be fully interfacing first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut them out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need the following fabric:

2x front trousers, mirror images
2x back pants, mirror images
2x Passe rear opposite

2x belts, opposite each other
1x Belt loops (for 5 pieces)
2x pocket bags, opposite each other
2x back pockets

also with insert:

2x pocket receipt, mirror image
1x waistband front inside
1x front outer waistband
1x waistband at the back inside
1x back outer waistband

Additionally, iron on bias tape:

1x waistband front inside
1x waistband at the back inside

The elastic band ensures that the top waistband remains stable. If you prefer a more elastic fit, simply leave the elastic band off.

You will need the following lining fabric:

2x pocket bags, opposite each other

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked

To sew these trousers you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.

If you're using an invisible zipper, you'll also need the appropriate presser foot for your sewing machine. The colored lines in the pictures, in addition to the written description, show you where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

You start with the front of the pants.

The pleats are sewn together on the inside according to the pattern markings. Then, press the pleats towards the center front and secure them with a basting stitch. Next, finish the crotch seam and the inseam.

Now you prepare the bag.

The pocket facing is finished along the long edge and stitched onto the lining bag, left to right.

Now, place the lining pocket bag right sides together onto the pocket opening of the front trousers, sew the two pieces together, and topstitch the edge to your desired width. In our example, the pocket opening is topstitched at 0.2 and 0.7 cm.

Lay the outer pocket bag flat, right side up. Now, also with the right side up, place the front of the trousers on top and first secure it with pins at the pocket opening, then fold the front of the trousers to the side and you can pin the pocket bags together.

The pocket bags are sewn together and the seam allowance is finished together.

You secure the pocket bags to the waist and side seams with a basting stitch, then you finish the side seam.

Next, place the front pieces right sides together and sew the front crotch seam up to about 5cm before the inseam. Then press the seam allowance open.

Now we'll tackle the back of the pants.

You sew the yoke to the back of the trousers, right sides together, finish the seam allowance, and press it upwards. Then you topstitch the seam at your desired width.

You finish the crotch seam, the inseam, and the side seam.

Now we'll work on the back pockets. Finish the edges of the sides and the bottom of the pocket and iron them over by 1 cm. Then fold the top edge over twice by 1.5 cm, iron it, and topstitch it.

Next, position the pockets on the back of the trousers according to the cutting line and topstitch them close to the edge, or, as in our example, 0.2 cm and 0.7 cm. If desired, you can add bar tacks along the upper edge on the side. This will prevent the pocket from coming loose.

Now, place the back of the trousers right sides together and sew the back crotch seam up to about 5 cm before the inseam. Then, press the seam allowance open up to the crotch curve.

Now you'll make the belt loops. Finish one long edge, fold over the unfinished edge, and then fold the finished edge over it. Next, topstitch close to the edge on both sides and divide the loops into 5 equal parts. Don't cut through the measuring tape! ;)

Now sew the front outer waistband to the front of the trousers and the back waistband to the back of the trousers. Include the belt loops at the bottom of the waistband in the sewing. Press the seam allowance towards the waistband.

Now, join the front of the pants to the back, right sides together. First, sew the side seam, making sure to leave an opening in the left side seam for the zipper. Then, press the seam allowance open, followed by the inseam. Don't be surprised if the distance between the seat and knee of the back pants is slightly shorter than that of the front. Stretch this section a little so it fits. This pattern-making trick ensures a better fit. Now, press the seam allowance open as well.

The crotch seam can now be closed. For added stability, double-stitch the entire crotch seam.

Now the hem of the trousers is finished, ironed over by 4cm and topstitched.

Now you need to attach the appropriate zipper foot to your machine. There are several types of zipper feet. This is one of them.

Next, insert the seam ripper into the side seam of both the front and back pieces, up to the top edge of the waistband. Remember to allow a 1.5 cm seam allowance.

Secure the seam ripper ends with a few stitches on the seam allowance.

The inner waistband is sewn together at the right side seam and the seam allowance is pressed open.

Now sew the inner waistband to the seam allowance of the seam ripper. Fold over the bottom edge of the inner waistband as you go.

Now you can turn the upper waistband edge right side out. Carefully trim the seam allowance at the corners.

Now topstitch the upper edge of the waistband as desired. Fold the lower edge of the inner waistband over by 1 cm and add your topstitching from the right side. Make sure you catch the inner waistband.

Finally, you stitch the top edge of the belt loops onto the waistband.

Now just the belt, then you've made it!

Sew the belt together at the center back, right sides facing, and press the seam allowance open. Then turn the belt right side out, leaving a small opening for turning. Carefully trim the ends.