---> ENGLISH VERSION BELOW! <---

Our Luca pants pattern creates really nice legs, the slightly flared hem fits both flat and heeled shoes. The patch pockets on the front and back ensure a sporty look and also conjure up a nice bottom. Pants are always a challenge and not an easy subject, but be bold and just try them.

side length = 106 cm

Luca was sewn from a Tencel soft stretch twill in this pattern.

→ To the pattern “Luca”

Required material:

In any case, we recommend a fabric with at least 2% elastane, such as polyester/viscose/elastane, cotton/elastane or wool/elastane.

Sizes 34-40

• Outer fabric 1.55m (140cm wide)
• Insert 0.35m (90cm wide)
• Zipper 1x 10cm
• Buttons 1x 1.8cm diameter

Sizes 42-50

• Outer fabric 2.55m (140cm wide)
• Insert 0.35m (90cm wide)
• Zipper 1x 12cm
• Buttons 1x 1.8cm diameter

In advance for you as information:

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay the waistband on the fold at the back. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

If you want to make your Luca out of cord, note that cord is cut against the grain. We have a video for you about this.

If you want to make your Luca out of plaid fabric, then make sure that the pattern pieces for the pockets and the entire waistband are cut diagonally.

In this video, Dagmar shows you the best way to cut checked fabric.

You need from fabric:

• 2x back piece in opposite directions
• 2x front part in opposite directions
• 2x front pocket in opposite directions
• 2x bag opposite
• 2x yoke in reverse
• 1x understep
• 1x belt loop

also with insert:

• 2x waistband in the back break
• 2x federal overstep in opposite directions
• 2x federal underlay in opposite directions
• 1x front trousers on the left side of the body

also with band:

• 1x inner waistband underlay
• 1x inner waistband overstep
• 1x inner waistband at the back in the break
• 2x slip pockets in front

Sewing instructions:

To sew these pants you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

If you use a seam zipper, you also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Cut away the underlap of the left side of the body according to the cut...

... and neaten the front trousers all around.

Now prepare the front pockets by neatening both all around.

Then iron the pockets according to the pattern...

... and step through the procedure.

You can now pin your prepared pockets to the markings on the front trousers and stitch the edge tightly.

Now prepare the back pockets by neatening them all around...

... and then ironed.

Here, too, stitch the intervention just under the edge.

Position the pockets according to the markings on the hind trousers and stitch them tight at the edge.

Then place the yoke right sides together on the back trousers, sew both together and clean up the seam allowances. Iron these upwards and, if necessary, topstitch them one foot wide.

Now you can also neaten the hind trousers all around.

Place your front trousers right sides together on the back trousers and close the side seam. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Iron the hem of the trouser legs according to the pattern.

For a better understanding of how to sew your zipper and make all the preparations beforehand, we have prepared a video for you here.

Then you also iron the upper part with the interlining...

... or the underlap of the front trouser legs. Pay attention to the markings in the cut.

Now sew the inner leg seams of both pant legs right sides together and press open the seam allowances.

The next step is to close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg to the right (right side outside) and the other trouser leg (wrong side outside) to the left. Tuck the pant leg (right side out) into the other pant leg. Pin the buttock seam together so that it lies nicely straight and sew it together. Make absolutely sure that the yoke is sewn together at the center back at exactly the same height, and that the inner leg seams are exactly on top of each other. I only closed part of the seat seam so that I can get to the later processing of the zipper better.

Clean up the underlay all around and then iron it left to left in the fold.

The zipper can thus be positioned and stitched. I shortened the zipper up because it was too long. Later, while processing the waistband, I first cut it off.

Now place the prepared zipper on the ironed edge of the underlay and stitch it almost through the edge.

Lay the trousers neatly in front of you so that the flap covers the zipper and pin the flap to the zipper.

Then fold the sewn-on slip to the side...

... and sew the zipper through the top flap at 2cm (or 3cm wide) next to the break in the center front. End about 2cm above the zipper end and lock this point. Fold the underlay back under the zip and (depending on the design) stitch through the top flap, zip and underlap at the corner of the crotch seam in a curve or at an angle to the center front, lock again at the crotch seam.

Then I closed the open stretch of the buttocks seam right sides together and ironed the seam allowances open up to the first snap.

You can put an extra bar on the bottom step with the top step.

On the strip for the belt loops, neaten one of the long sides.

Then iron over the raw edge by 1cm and the raw edge by 1cm. Finally, stitch along the long sides, each 0.2 cm wide. Cut the strip into 5 pieces of equal length...

... and sew them, right sides together, to the markings on the pattern one foot wide.

It continues with the processing of the federal government. Lay the pattern pieces on top of each other, right sides together according to the paper pattern, and close the side seams. Pay attention to the processing of the inner and outer waistband and the seam allowances in the pattern. Then iron them apart.

Serge the lower cut edge of the inner waistband.

Now you can place the inner waistband right sides together on the outer waistband and sew it together at the top edge.

Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the inner waistband, if it is not topstitched, automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the inner waistband is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Stitch the outer waistband to the pants, right sides together, and press the seam allowances up.

You can also stitch the waistband ends together and turn them over.

Turn the waistband right side out and iron it flat again if necessary. Then you stitch on the inner waistband in the shadow of the seam (from the right). Sew over the belt loops that are still open.

Here you can see the view of the inner waistband.

Stitch the belt loops onto the outer waistband and fasten them to the top edge of the waistband.

Then you sew the buttonhole on the right side of the body and the button on the left side of the body.

Finally, you stitch the hem according to the pattern.

Your LUCA is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.

--> ENGLISH VERSION <--

Sewing instruction pants Luca

Really beautiful legs makes our pattern pants Luca, the slightly flared hem width fits both flat and heeled shoes. The patch pockets on the front and back provide a sporty look and also conjure up a beautiful butt. Pants are always a challenge and not an easy topic, but be brave and just try them.

Side length = 106 cm

Luca was sewn from a Tencel soft stretch twill in this tutorial.

→ To the pattern "Luca

Materials required:

We definitely recommend a fabric with at least 2% elastane, such as polyester/viscose/elastane, cotton/elastane or wool/elastane.

Sizes 34-40

• Upper fabric 1.55m (140cm wide)
• interlining 0.35m (90cm wide)
• Zipper 1 x 10 cm
• Buttons 1x 1.8cm diameter

Sizes 42-50

• Upper fabric 2.55m (140cm wide)
• interlining 0.35m (90cm wide)
• Zipper 1x 12 cm
• Buttons 1x 1.8cm diameter

In advance for you as info:

cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and from interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvages parallel to the center so you can place the waistband back at fabric fold. The pattern pieces should all lie with the lettering facing up. Always align the threadline arrow in the same direction for all pieces and parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm incision with scissors or chalk. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric break because this is always a center. Marks define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. All outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interlining are best cut roughly first. After you have fixed the interlining , cut them out exactly. Here is also a video about gluing and fixing of cut pieces.

If you want to make your Luca from corduroy, then note that corduroy is cut against the grain. For this we have a video for you.

If you want to make your Luca out of plaid, note that the pattern pieces of the pockets and the entire waistband are cut in diagonal threadline.

Dagmar shows you the best way to cut plaid in this video.

You need fabric:

• 2x back part opposite
• 2x front part opposite
• 2x pockets in front opposite
• 2x bags opposite
• 2x yoke back opposite
• 1x underlap
• 1x belt eyelet

also with interlining:

• 2x waistband back in fabric fold
• 2x waistband overlap opposite
• 2x waistband underlap opposite
• 1x front pants left side of the body overlap

also with interlining tape:

• 1x inner waistband underlap
• 1x inner waistband overlap
• 1x inner waistband back in fabric fold
• 2x front pockets

Sewing instructions:

To sew these trousers you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the raw edges.

If you are using a seam zip, you will also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colored lines on the pictures show you where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Cut away the underlap of the left side of the body according to the cut...

... and serge the front trousers all around.

Now prepare the front pockets by sergering all around.

Then press the pockets according to the pattern...

... and stitch through your procedure.

You can now pin your prepared pockets to the markings on the front trousers and topstitch the edge just in place.

Now prepare the back pockets by neatening them all around....

... and then ironed over.

Here too, topstitch the world close to the edge.

Position the pockets according to the markings on back pant and stitch them close to the edge.

Then place the yoke right sides together at the back pant, sew both together and serge the seam allowances. Press them up and topstitch them if necessary.

Now you can also serge the back pant all around.

Place your front pants right sides together on the back pant and close the side seam. Press the seam allowances apart.

Press the hem of the trouser legs according to the pattern.

For a better understanding of how to sew your zipper and all the preparations beforehand, we have prepared a video for you here.

After that, you also iron the top, covered with interlining ...

... or the underlap of the front trouser legs. Pay attention to the markings in the cut.

Now close the inside leg seams of both trouser legs right sides together and press the seam allowances apart.

The next step is to close the inseam. To do this, turn one pant leg right side out (right side) and the other pant leg (left side outside) left side in. Pin the trouser leg (with the right side facing out) into the other trouser leg. Pin your seat seam together so that it is nice and straight and sew it together. Make sure that the yoke is sewn together at the exact same height in the center back, as well as the inside leg seams are exactly on top of each other. I only closed part of the back seam so that I could better get to the later processing of the zipper.

Finish the underlap all around and iron it left to right in the fold.

The zip can now be positioned and stitched in place. I shortened the zip at the top because it was too long. Later, during the waistband finishing, I cut it off.

Now place the prepared zipper on the folded edge of the underlay and topstitch it close to the edge.

Lay the trousers neatly in front of you so that the overlap covers the zip and pin the overlap to the zip.

Then fold the sewn underlap to side...

... and sew at 2cm (or 3cm wide) next to the fabric fold of the center front zipper through the overlap . End about 2cm above the zipper end and lock this spot. Fold the underlap back under the zipper and (depending on the design) stitch through in an arc or diagonally to the center front on the corner of the inseam through overlap, zipper and underlap , at the inseam you bar-tack again.

I then closed the remaining open section of the seat seam right sides together and ironed the seam allowances apart until the first snap.

You can put an extra bar on the underlap with the overlap.

On the strip for the belt loops, serge one of the long side.

Then press the untrimmed edge 1cm over and the trimmed edge 1cm over. Finally, topstitch along the long sides, each 0.2cm wide. Cut the strip into 5 pieces of the same length...

... and sew them right sides together to the markings in the pattern.

Continue with the processing of the waistband. Place the pattern pieces right sides together according to sewing pattern and close the side seams. Pay attention to the workmanship of the inner and outer waistband and the seam allowances in the pattern. Then press them apart.

Neaten the bottom cut selvage of the inner waistband.

Now you can place the inner waistband right sides together with the outer waistband and sew them together at the top edge.

Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can reach. This method not only facilitates the final ironing out, but also ensures that the inside waistband, if it is not specially topstitched, automatically lays inside and does not roll out. Only the inside waistband is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The quilting line is then only visible from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Topstitch the outer waistband to the trousers right sides together and press the seam allowances up.

You can now also topstitch the waistband ends together and turn over.

Turn the waistband right side out and iron it flat again if necessary. Then topstitch the inside waistband in the shadow of the seam (from the right). Sew over the still open belt loops.

Here you can see the view on the inside waistband.

Topstitch your belt loops to the outer waistband and bar-tack them to the top edge of the waistband.

Then sew the buttonhole on the right side of the body and the button on the left side of the body.

Finally, topstitch the hem according to the pattern.

Your LUCA is ready !

If you get stuck or have any questions or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer as soon as possible.

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely yours Sewing Pattern Berlin Team.