Sewing instructions for culottes “Theresa”

Fashion details have been repeated over the decades, including the culottes . The slightly deep waistband and side seam zip emphasize the figure-hugging fit, then flare out from the hips to the hem. Theresa offers two leg lengths: one with a hem that ends at calf height, and the shorter version just below the knee. Using the drawn lines, even knee-length culottes can be quickly created.

→ To the “Theresa” pattern

Inside leg length = 83 – 85 cm

Theresa was sewn in this pattern from a soft viscose woven fabric.

Required materials:

We recommend a flowing fabric, e.g. a viscose/polyester blend , a wool georgette or Tencel.

Sizes 34-50	Outer fabric	2.00 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	lining fabric	0.30 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	insert	0.60 m	90 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	Seam ripper	1 piece	22 cm long

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric, and interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the front and back waistbands on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm slit with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing. After you have secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need fabric:

• 2x front trousers opposite
• 2x rear trousers opposite
• 2x pocket bags opposite
• 1x belt loops

also with insert:

• 2x pocket receipts opposite
• 2x fret-before in break
• 2x waistband-back in the fold

also with forming tape:

• 1x inner waistband-front
• 1x inner waistband-back

You will need lining material:

• 2x pocket bags-inside opposite

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew these pants you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

If you're using a seam zipper, you'll also need the appropriate presser foot for your sewing machine. The colored lines in the images, in addition to the description, show you where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Start by sewing the pockets on the front of the trousers. To do this, neaten the pocket facings along the long edge.

Now place the prepared pocket facings, wrong sides together, on the inside of the pocket lining and sew them all the way around.

Now place the finished pocket bags on the pocket opening edge, right sides together, of the front trousers and sew them together with a 1cm seam.

If you don't want to topstitch the edge, you can stitch the seam allowances flat. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also ensures that the facing, if not topstitched, will automatically tuck inward and not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowance. The stitching line will then only be visible from the wrong side of the fabric, not the right side.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the flat-stitched seam on the pocket opening.

To get the seam of the pocket opening nice and flat, you can first iron the seam allowance open and only then turn the pocket bag inside out and topstitch the opening edge with a 0.5cm wide stitching foot.

Now take the large pocket bag made from the outer fabric and place it, right sides together, on top of the previously turned pocket bag. Sew the bags together along the curve and neaten the seam allowances together.

Add a 0.5cm seam at the waist to ensure the pocket stays in place and can be included later when the waistband is sewn. Your pocket is finished.

Next, sew the back darts. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch, and the waist seam ends nicely and straight.
To avoid having to tack the point, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart contents to the center back.

You neaten the hems of the trouser legs individually and...

… iron them according to the pattern.

Before the seam ripper can be sewn in, reinforce the areas on the front and back of the left side of your trousers with extra interfacing.

Neaten the seam allowances of all side seams individually.

Take the front and back trouser legs and place them on top of each other, right sides together. Close the side seam of the front and back trousers with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Note that the side seam on the left side should only be closed up to the notch. Work on both legs and...

… then iron the seam allowances apart.

The inseams are sewn together with 1 cm, right sides together. Don't be surprised if the distance between the seat and the knee of the back of the trousers is slightly shorter than that of the front. Stretch this section slightly to make it fit. This cutting trick ensures a better fit. Press the finished seam allowances to the back.

Next, you can close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out and tuck this leg into the other, not turned leg. This way, the crotch seams line up nicely and are easy to sew together. Make sure the inseams line up exactly. Feel free to double-stitch this seam. Once the seam allowances are neatened together, press the first 5-10 cm toward the right side of the body.

You can now fold the pre-ironed hem upwards and secure it with a seam all around.

Start by preparing the belt loops: neaten one of the long sides of the strip for the belt loops.

Then, iron the raw edge, wrong side together, and then fold the finished edge over it. Iron everything flat.

Here you can see a detailed view of the ironed belt loop.

Finally, stitch 0.2cm along the edge of each long side.

Here you can see a detailed view of the quilted belt loop.

Cut the strip into 6 equal-sized belt loops, as indicated in the pattern. You can calculate the length of the eyelets as follows:

• Cuff dimensions: 4cm + 2cm NZG (top & bottom) + 1cm (for movement) = 7cm (per loop)

Stitch the loops onto your trousers at the markings in the pattern (2x front, 4x back), right sides together.

Next, we'll start with the waistband. Sew one back waistband and one front waistband together, right sides together, along the right side seam. Press the seam allowances open. To prevent the width of your waistband from expanding, the upper edge of the inner waistband is reinforced with a 12mm-wide shaping tape in addition to the interfacing. This tape is also available from Vlieseline, among others : https://www.vlieseline.com/Produkte/Baender/Formband

Neaten the bottom edge of the inner waistband.

Place the inner and outer waistbands, right sides together, and sew them together along the double-reinforced top edge. Don't sew all the way to the end, as you'll need some slack for the seam ripper later. Note that the outer waistband is intentionally larger than the inner waistband and will therefore overhang.

Fold the seam allowance to the inner waistband and stitch it flat, close to the edge. This method not only makes final ironing easier, but also ensures that the inner waistband, if not topstitched separately, will automatically tuck inward and not roll out. Only the inner waistband is stitched to the seam allowance, close to the edge. The stitching line will then only be visible from the wrong side of the fabric, not the right side.

Here you can see a detailed view of the flat-stitched inner waistband.

Then turn the waistband inside out and iron it flat.

Here you can see a detailed view of the flat-ironed waistband.

Now you can attach the finished waistband to the pants with the outer edge, right sides together, and stitch it in place. Then, iron the seam allowance into the waistband.

There are several variations of zipper feet. This is one of them.

Next, insert the seam ripper into the side seam on the front and back pieces up to the top of the waistband. Note the 1.5cm seam allowance.

Here you can see a detailed view of a closed seam zipper.

The waistband is placed on top of each other, right sides together, and the inner waistband is sewn to the seam allowances of the zipper.

Now close the top edge of the waistband completely.

You can also secure the zip ends to the seam allowances of the side seam.

Now, stitch the waistband all the way around, using the width of your stitching foot, to secure the inner waistband. You also secure the belt loops to the pants with a seam.

The belt loops are folded over 1cm and fastened to the outer waistband.

Your THERESA is ready !

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as quickly as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.