Sewing instructions for a jacket in The Hague

• Outer fabric 1.80 m x 140 cm wide
• Lining 1.20 m 140 cm wide

Sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 2.10 m x 140 cm wide
• Lining 1.40 m 140 cm wide

Sizes 34-50

• Insert 2.10m 0.90m wide
• Buttons, 4 pieces, 24 mm diameter
  
• 4 buttons, 20 mm diameter
• Forming strip 2.20m
  

Cut:

Seam allowances are including - 1cm wide or as marked

Place the fabric with the right side of the fabric facing up.

All pattern pieces should be laid with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

Attention: Don't be confused by our cutting photos: We used a very soft, thin wool and therefore decided to completely fuse the fabric with interfacing. Just pretend the lighter reverse side is simply the wrong side of the fabric ;-)

You will need the following fabric:

• 1x back section in hernia repair (with plaque insert and support band)
• 2x upper sleeves, mirrored
• 2x underarm sleeves, mirror image
  

Also includes insert:

• 2x front part (with plaque insert and shaping band) mirror image
• 2x front part, mirror image
• 1x upper collar in half
• 1x undercollar in half
• 2x collar bar in fracture
• 1x receipt at the back of the break
• 2x flap pocket, opposite each other
• 2x bag, opposite each other
• 2x cuff opposite

You will need the following lining fabric:

• 2x front part, mirror image
• 1x back piece in half
• 2x upper sleeves opposite
• 2x underarm sleeves, mirror image
• 4x Pocket bags opposite
• 2x pocket flaps (with insert) opposite each other

Sewing instructions:

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!

To sew this skirt you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.

The colored lines in the pictures show you, in addition to the description, where to sew a seam, finish edges, or glue something.

Have fun sewing!

You start with the bag.

You turn the outer fabric flap right side to right side with the lining flap.

Trim the seam allowance at the corners. Then turn the flap right side out, press it flat, and topstitch as desired. In our example, I'll topstitch some seams with a 0.7cm seam allowance.

You stitch the top edge together.

Now you should also punch the buttonholes, as you won't be able to reach them as easily later.

Next, we'll work on the bag: you sew a lining bag right sides together along the long side of the bag, and you serge the edge of another lining bag along the long side.

Iron the hemmed side 1cm to the left, then place the lining bags right sides together....

...and tack them together flush with the outer fabric pocket. Leave an opening on the side so you can turn the pocket right side out after turning it inside out.

Now you turn everything together and then trim the corners.

Turn the bag right side out and iron it flat. The opening you left will disappear when you stitch the bag on.

First, pin the pocket to the front piece, then fold the side pocket opening to the side and pin the lower pocket lining to the front piece. Now topstitch the pocket lining along the edges.

Now you can topstitch the entire bag according to the cutting instructions, following the edge pattern. In our example, edge + 0.7 cm.

Great! Now you have a bag that you can use from the top and from the side!

Finally, you stitch the flap onto the front piece according to the pattern instructions. First, fold it upwards, and once you've stitched it down, fold it downwards and stitch over it again from the right side.

Next, sew the shoulder seams right sides together and press them open.

Now take hold of the sleeve. Secure the fold on the upper sleeve with a basting stitch.

Then you close the upper arm seam up to the slit, iron the seam allowance open and clip the seam allowance at the slit underlap.

Sew the sleeve right sides together into the armhole and press the seam allowance open.

Now you can sew the side seam and the sleeve side seam right sides together in one go. Again, press the seam allowance open.

Next, we'll work on the collar: Sew the collar stand to the upper and lower collars, right sides together. Press the seam allowances open.

Sew the undercollar to the neckline, right sides together. Make sure to leave a 1cm seam allowance along the short edge of the collar.

Before we get to the lining, sew the front facings to the back facing at the shoulder, right sides together....

...and places the upper collar right sides together.

In the lining back, you fix the fold at the top and bottom in the back center with a guideline and iron it.

Sew the front and back pieces together right sides facing at the shoulder and press the seam allowance open.

Now, sew the upper arm seam of the sleeve right sides together and press the seam allowance open. Make a small clip at the slit underlap.

The sleeve is sewn into the armhole right sides together, and the seam allowance is pressed open here as well.

You can close the side seam in one go, but leave an opening of about 20cm in the left sleeve.

Now simply sew the facing to the lining right sides together, press the seam allowance into the lining and topstitch close to the edge on the lining.

You iron the hem of the jacket.

Ready to feed!

To make feeding easier for you, we have a video for you here:

The jacket and lining are sewn together right sides facing. The hem remains open. You start at the front edge and backstitch where the collar begins. You can also trim the corner now. Then you sew the collar together and trim the corners as well.

Interlude: Sew an approximately 8cm long strip of lining to the shoulder seam allowance and the armhole seam allowance. The lining will later be attached to this strip on the inside so that it doesn't flap around when you wear it ;-)

The collar and front edge are ironed flat.

Fold the lining upwards to the collar/neckline seam, pin the seam allowance from the collar seam together and stitch it through.

Whoa, here comes the sleeve with the risk of twisting. Since the slit will be sewn together, I'm already pinning the two edges in place....

...then I pull the sleeves through the jacket.....

...and sew the long edges securely.

I cut a slit in the lining at the overlap and tuck in the short upper edge.

...and sew them on.

Turn the sleeve right side out again, including the lining, iron the underlap and topstitch it all the way through with a sharp edge.

You sew the sleeve hem (outer fabric and lining) together with a basting stitch.

The cuff is folded lengthwise, right sides together, and sewn along the short sides. Then turn it right side out and iron it flat.

"Iron the outer cuff over by 1cm, sew the inner cuff to the lining side."

Now, starting from the right, stitch the outer cuff with sharp edges, and if you like, stitch the entire cuff all the way around.

Now the lining strips come into play on the inside. You attach the lining to these strips at the shoulder and side seams.

Turn the lining inside out and sew the hem together. Also sew a small section up the front edge so you can trim the corner later without the seam coming undone. Leave an opening of about 20 cm in the hem seam so you can turn the jacket right side out again.

Turn the garment right side out and fold the hem inwards at the front edge. Use the pre-ironed hem fold as a guide.

Now you need to secure the hem with a hand stitch. But not yet on the part that was left "open".

Turn the jacket right side out, and the left sleeve inside out. Now you can reach through the opening of the lining sleeve to the hem and pull it through the sleeve opening. Sew the hem closed and add a hand stitch.

You close the lining sleeve with a narrow edge.

The front edge and the collar are topstitched....

...the buttonholes were cut into the right front piece and the cuff facing according to the pattern markings, and the buttons were sewn onto the left front piece. Ensure the buttonholes are sufficiently long and appropriate to the thickness of the fabric.

Your The Hague is finished

If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible.

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your sewing pattern team