---> ENGLISH VERSION BELOW! <---

This small, short jacket in Chanel style goes wonderfully with long skirts or over your summer dress. The blazer also has patch breast pockets and dividing seams for a body-hugging fit. Liz is fully lined and therefore has a "real" jacket finish.

Length at center back = 51 - 59 cm

Roos was sewn from a woven cotton in this pattern.

→ To the pattern “Liz”

In advance for you as information:

Required material:

We recommend a boucle or linen fabric.

Sizes 34-42

• Outer fabric 1.60m (140cm wide)
• Lining 1.20m (140cm wide)

Sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 2.00m (140cm wide)
• Lining 1.30m (140cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

• Insert 1.30 m (90 cm wide)
• Buttons 5 pcs. 1.8 cm in diameter
• band size 34-50 = 2.20m, 12mm wide

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the facing on the back, collar stand, lower and upper collar in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

• 2x front part in opposite directions
• 2x side parts in front of the same
• 2x side part at the back in opposite directions
• 2x back piece in opposite directions
• 2x pocket front part opposite
• 2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
• 2x lower sleeves in opposite directions
• 2x cuff in opposite directions

also with insert:

• 1x document at the back in the rupture
• 2x document in front of the same
• 1x upper collar in break
• 1x undercollar in the oblique FDL
• 2x collar stand in break
• 2x front part fixation/plaque, opposite
• 2x back part fixation/plaque, opposite
• 2x pocket opening pocket front part
• 2x hem front part, opposite
• 2x hem side part in front, opposite
• 2x hem side part at the back, opposite
• 2x hem back part, opposite

also with band:

• 2x shoulder and neckline front piece
• 2x armhole front part (after processing)
• 1x neckline back part (after processing)
• 2x armhole back part (after processing)

You need from feed:

• 2x front part, opposite
• 2x side panel in front, opposite
• 2x side part at the back, opposite
• 1x back part in break
• 2x bag, opposite
• 2x upper sleeves, opposite
• 2x lower sleeves, opposite

Sewing instructions:

You will need a sewing machine to sew this jacket.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!

Happy sewing!

Lay the front facing right sides together on the front pieces and stitch through the front edge with 1cm. Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched, at least up to the upper knot. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Iron the hem allowances of the front parts and the facings according to the pattern.

The next step is to sew the waist darts of the front parts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart apart.

Sew the front side piece to the front piece, right sides together. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Now glue the armholes of the front part with the forming tape.

Iron the fold of the front pocket opening according to the pattern.

Stitch the lining section of the bag to the opening, right sides together, and iron the lining down.

Now place the lining right sides together on the outer fabric and sew up the side seams. Press the seam allowances apart and then turn the bag right side out.

Iron the lower seam that is still open by 1 cm.

Position the pocket on the front parts according to the marking and stitch the pockets almost through the edge.

Sew the center back together with right sides together and iron open the seam allowances.

Sew the back side pieces to the back pieces right sides together and press open the seam allowances.

Now glue the armholes and the neckline of the back part with the forming tape.

Iron the hem of the back piece according to the pattern.

Place the back and front pieces right sides together and sew the shoulder seam. Iron the seam allowance apart.

Sew the side seams right sides together and press open the seam allowances. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern.

Now take the facing at the back and sew it to the front facing, right sides together. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Sew the bridge to the upper or lower collar.

Then iron the seam allowances apart and pinch them a little so that the seam allowances can spread apart a little when ironing. Stitch right and left of the seam just under the edge.

Place the upper and lower collar right sides together and stitch through the upper seam.

The seam allowances are then flat-stitched. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the undercollar, if it is not topstitched, automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the undercollar is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see a detail photo of the flat-stitched seam.

Iron the collar together.

Then turn him right sides together again and close the short stretches. Stop the seam 1cm before the raw edge. Trim the corners of the collar...

... and neatly iron the collar together.

Now you can sew the collar band of the undercollar, right sides together, to the neck hole of the jacket up to the snap. Pin the center back in place with pins and smooth out the remaining stretches to the right and left.

Stitch the lapel corners of the front edge right sides together up to the notch. Make sure to hit the previously sewn seam of the bridge exactly.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processed lapel corner. Slightly trim the corner seam allowances.

Now sew the bridge of the upper collar to the lining of the jacket, right sides together.

Here you can see a detailed view of the processed collar.

Now iron the seam allowances of the previously sewn sections apart. Clip the seam allowances a little or cut them out a little if they are too thick.

To prevent the outer and inner bridge from slipping, stitch the ironed apart seam allowances together. Use a one-sided stitching foot to stitch as densely as possible or work the stretch by hand.

Now come to the processing of the upper and lower sleeves. Stitch the outer arm seams right sides together and press open the seam allowances.

Sew the inner arm seams together, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances apart.

You iron the cuff in the fold left to left.

Sew the inseam right sides together and press open the seam allowances.

Place the cuff right sides together on the sleeve and stitch both together, ironing the seam allowances upwards.

The sleeve is finished and you can sew it right sides together into the correct armhole.

Now take the lining fabric and close the darts of the front parts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart content to the side seam.

Lay the front side pieces on the front pieces right sides together and close the dividing seam. Press the seam allowances to the side seam.

The back part has a lining pleat. You sew these in at the top and bottom by sewing right sides together at the respective snaps, see photo.

Lay the back side pieces on the back piece, right sides together, and stitch through the dividing seam. Press the seam allowances to the side seam.

Place the front and back pieces together and sew the shoulder seam right sides together. Press the seam allowances backwards.

Then sew the side seams right sides together and iron the seam allowances to the back.

Now come to the sleeves and sew the upper and lower sleeves together, right sides together. Press the seam allowances backwards.

Also close the inner arm seam right sides together. Note to leave a 10cm opening in the left sleeve.

Sew the lining sleeves right sides together into the armholes of the lining body.

Now sew the lining right sides together onto the facing of the outer fabric.

There is also a video here on how to insert a lining in a blazer.

Don't forget to sew the cuffs to the lining of the sleeves, right sides together.

The shoulders are also finished with a lining strip for freedom of movement. At the armpits, sew the seam allowances of the lining and outer fabric together.

Close the hem of the lining and outer fabric right sides together until just before the center back. Do this on both sides. Note the sloping processing of the facing in the hem.

You close the open area around the center back in the hem by crawling through the open lining armhole and sewing the rest of the hem right sides together.

Then close the open space in the lining sleeve.

Make the buttonholes according to the pattern and sew the matching buttons to the opposite side.

Your LIZ is ready!

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de.

We will answer you as soon as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.

PINTEREST PHOTO

--> ENGLISH VERSION <--

Sewing instructions jacket Liz

This small short jacket in Chanel style fits wonderfully with long skirts or over your summer dress. The blazer has patch chest pockets and dividing seams for a close fit. Liz is fully lined and thus has a "real" jacket processing.

Length at the center back = 51 - 59 cm

Roos in this tutorial was sewn from a woven cotton.

→ To the pattern "Liz

In advance for you as info:

Materials required:

We recommend you a boucle or linen fabric.

Sizes 34-42

• Outer fabric 1.60m (140cm wide)
• Lining fabric 1.20m (140cm wide)

Sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 2.00m (140cm wide)
• Lining fabric 1.30m (140cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

• interlining 1.30 m (90 cm wide)
• Buttons 5 pcs 1.8 cm diameter
• interlining tape Size 34-50 = 2.20 m, 12 mm wide

cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and from interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvages parallel to the center so you can place facing back, collar stays, under collar and top collar at fabric fold. The pattern pieces should all lie with the lettering facing up. Always align the threadline arrow in the same direction for all pieces and parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm incision with scissors or chalk. Marks define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. All outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with interlining are best cut roughly first. After you have fixed the interlining , cut them out exactly. Here is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces.

You need fabric:

• 2x front part opposite
• 2x side part in front opposite each other
• 2x side part back opposite
• 2x back part opposite
• 2x pocket front part opposite
• 2x upper sleeves opposite
• 2x undersleeves opposite each other
• 2x cuff opposite

also with interlining:

• 1x facing back in the fabric fold
• 2x facing front opposite
• 1x upper collar in fabric fold
• 1x under collar in oblique FDL
• 2x collar stand in fabric fold
• 2x anterior part partial fixation/ plaque, opposing
• 2x Back section Partial fixation/ Plaque, opposing
• 2x pocket opening pocket front
• 2x hem front part, opposite
• 2x hem side part front, opposite
• 2x hem side part back, opposite
• 2x hem back part, opposite

also with interlining tape:

• 2x shoulder and neckline front part
• 2x armhole front part (after processing)
• 1x neckline back part (after processing)
• 2x armhole back part (after processing)

You need lining:

• 2x front part, opposite
• 2x side part in front, opposite
• 2x side part back, opposite
• 1x back part in fabric fold
• 2x bags, opposite
• 2x upper sleeve, opposite
• 2x undersleeves, opposite

Sewing instructions:

You will need a sewing machine to sew this jacket.

In addition to the description, the colored lines on the pictures show you where to sew a seam or glue something.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1cm wide!

Have fun sewing!

Place the front facing right sides together on the front pieces and stitch through the front edge with 1cm. Then topstitch the seam allowances flat, at least to the top notch. This method not only facilitates the final ironing out but also has the effect that the facing, if it is not specially topstitched, automatically lays inside and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The quilting line is then only visible from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Press the hem allowances of the front pieces and the facings according to the pattern.

Continue with sewing the waist darts of the front pieces. A simple, straight dart is sewn on the left side of the fabric, notch by notch, from the widest point to the tip, carefully following the marking and transferring the pattern exactly. (so that (so that the dart does not bag) closed and sewn. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew off too much or too little and the side seam finishes nice and straight.
So that you don't have to bar-tack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the contents of the dart apart.

Sew the front side piece right sides together to the front piece. Press the seam allowances apart.

Now glue the armholes of the front piece with the interlining tape.

Press the fold of the front pocket opening according to the pattern.

Topstitch the pocket lining blank right sides together to the welt and press the lining down.

Now place the lining right sides together on the outer fabric and topstitch the side seams. Press the seam allowances apart and then turn the pocket right side out.

Press the bottom seam that is still open by 1 cm.

Position the pocket on the front pieces according to the markings and topstitch the pockets close to the edge.

Close the back centers right sides together and press the seam allowances apart.

Sew the back side pieces right sides together to the back pieces and press the seam allowances apart.

Now glue the armholes and the neckline of the back with the interlining tape.

Press the hem of the back piece according to the pattern.

Place the back and front pieces right sides together and close the shoulder seam. Press the seam allowance apart.

Close the side seams right sides together and press the seam allowances apart. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern.

Now take the facing back and sew it right sides together to the front facing. Press the seam allowances apart.

Sew the bar to the upper or lower collar.

Then iron the seam allowances apart and pinch them a little, so that the seam allowances can spread apart a little when ironing. Topstitch the edge just to the right and left of the seam.

Place the top and bottom collars right sides together and topstitch through the top seam.

The seam allowances are then topstitched flat. This method not only facilitates the final ironing out, but also ensures that the undercollar, if it is not stitched separately, automatically lies inside and does not roll out. Only the undercollar is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line is then only visible from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see a detail photo of the flat stitched seam.

Press the collar on top of each other.

Then turn it right sides out again and close the short sections. Stop the seam 1cm before the cut selvage. Trim the corners of the collar...

... and neatly iron the collar on each other.

Now you can sew the collar stand of the undercollar right sides together to the snap to the neckline of the jacket. Pin the back center and flat the other sections to the right and left.

Topstitch the lapel corner of the front edge to the snap, right sides together. Make sure to exactly match the previously sewn seam of the bar.

Here you can see a detail photo of the finished lapel corner. Trim the seam allowances of the corner a little.

Now sew the bar of the upper collar right sides together to the facing of the jacket.

Here you can see a detailed view of the processed collar.

Now iron the seam allowances of the previously sewn sections apart. Clip the seam allowances a little or, if they are too thick, a little away.

To prevent the outer and inner bars from slipping, topstitch the seam allowances that have been ironed apart. Use a one-sided quilting foot to stitch as close as possible or work the section by hand.

Now come to the processing of the upper and lower sleeve. Topstitch the outer sleeve seam right sides together and press the seam allowances apart.

Also close the inner arm seam right sides together and press the seam allowances apart.

Iron the cuff inside out at fold .

Close the inside seam right sides together and press the seam allowances apart.

Place the cuff right sides together with the sleeve and topstitch, pressing the seam allowances up.

The sleeve is finished and you can sew it right sides together in the correct armhole.

Now take the lining fabric and close the darts of the front pieces. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side side of the fabric, clip on clip, from the widest point to the tip, tapered (so that the dart does not bag) , after transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking . Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew off too much or too little and the side seam finishes nice and straight.
So that you don't have to bar-tack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart contents to the side seam.

Place the front side pieces to the front pieces right sides together and close the dividing seam. Press the seam allowances to the side seam.

The back piece has a lining fold. You sew this in at the top and bottom by sewing right sides together at the respective notches, see photo.

Place the back side pieces right sides together on the back piece and topstitch through the dividing seam. Press the seam allowances to the side seam.

Place the front and back pieces on top of each other and close the shoulder seam right sides together. Press the seam allowances to back.

Then sew the side seams right sides together and press the seam allowances to back.

Now come to the sleeves and sew the upper and lower sleeves right sides together. Press the seam allowances to back.

Also close the inner sleeve seam right sides together. Note to leave an opening of 10cm in the left sleeve.

Sew the lining sleeves into the armholes of the lining body right sides together.

Now sew the lining right sides together to the facing of the outer fabric.

Here is also a video how you put a lining in blazer.

Don't forget to sew the cuffs right sides together to the sleeve lining.

The shoulders are also finished with an additional lining strip for freedom of movement. At the underarm points, sew the seam allowances of lining and outer fabric to each other.

Close the hem of lining and outer fabric right sides together until just before the back center. Do this on both sides. Note the slanted finish of the binding in the hem.

Close the open area around the back center in the hem by crawling through the open lining armhole and sewing the remaining hem right sides together.

Then close the open area in the lining sleeve.

Make the buttonholes according to the pattern and sew the matching buttons to the opposite side.

Your LIZ is ready!

If you get stuck, or if you have any questions, feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de.

We will answer you as soon as possible.

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely yours Sewing Pattern Berlin Team.

PINTEREST PHOTO