Sewing instructions Jersey blouse Austin

8 avril 2024

Length at back center = 56-66 cm

Austin was sewn from a heavy viscose jersey in this tutorial.

Materials needed:

We recommend a cotton jersey, summer sweat or polo jersey.

A viscose/silk woven fabric with elastane is also suitable.

Sizes 34-42	outer fabric	1.10 m	140 cm wide
	insert	0.80 m	90 cm wide
	Buttons/Printers	6 pcs.
Sizes 44-50	outer fabric	1.30 m	140 cm wide
	insert	0.80 m	90 cm wide
	Buttons/Printers	7 pieces
Sizes 34-50	Form band	0.60 m

Cut:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay the front and back pieces on the fold. All pattern pieces should be placed with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You will need the following from Jersey:

2x front part, mirror image
1x back piece in half
2x front sleeves, mirrored
2x sleeves back, mirrored
1x undercollar in half

also with insert:

2x front panel facing opposite sides
1x upper collar in half

Sewing instructions:

To sew this shirt, you'll need a sewing machine and an overlock machine, or alternatively, the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges. Be sure to use a jersey needle and a stretch stitch. If you're using a regular sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or a three-step elastic stitch. Afterward, finish all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another suitable stitch to prevent fraying. The colored lines in the pictures, in addition to the written instructions, show you where to sew seams or glue.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!

Have fun sewing!

Sizes 42-50 have a bust dart; please sew it according to the pattern. A simple, straight dart is sewn as follows after accurately transferring the markings: Align notches with notches, draw a line with tailor's chalk to ensure you sew correctly and that the side seam finishes straight. Sew from the widest point to the point, tapering the seam nicely (to prevent the dart from bunching). To avoid having to backstitch at the point, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart's contents upwards.

Place the front pieces right sides together on the back piece and sew both side seams as shown in the pattern. Finish the seam allowances together and press them towards the front.

Sew the shoulder seams together, right sides facing, and finish the seam allowances. Press the seam allowances forward as well.

Now you'll tackle the sleeves. First, finish the hem and the center seam.

Then you close the center seam up to the notch before the hem curve and iron the seam allowance open.

Now you can finish the sleeve hem; this is easier with this curve than if the sleeve is already closed.

Iron the hem over by 1cm and then stitch it down.

In the area of the armscye marked with notches, you'll insert gathering threads. These help create even gathers. Select the longest stitch setting on your sewing machine. Do not backstitch at the beginning and end of the gathering stitches; leave approximately 10 cm of thread. Sew two gathering stitches about 1 cm apart, positioned 0.5 cm and 1.5 cm from the cut edge, so that the final seam will run precisely between these two stitches. Pay attention to the pattern markings to determine the area where gathering is required.

Now you close the side seams of the sleeve, neaten the seam allowance together and iron it forwards.

Now insert the sleeve into the armhole up to the upper notches and secure it at the shoulder. Carefully pull the two bobbin threads on one side and gather the fabric until you reach the seam allowance of the armhole. You can now distribute the gathers evenly.

Next, stitch the sleeve into the armhole. Then, the gathering threads can be removed. The seam allowance is then finished together and pressed into the armhole.

Next, the collar will be prepared.

The upper and lower collars are placed right sides together and stitched with a 1 cm seam allowance. At curves and corners, the seam allowances are trimmed with scissors and clipped or cut off. This prevents the corners from becoming too bulky when turning the garment right side out and allows the seam allowances to lie flat. It's especially important not to cut into the seam itself. Therefore, we recommend sewing with a shorter stitch length just before and from the point. This ensures a corner that won't fray easily after trimming.

After turning it over, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them.

You topstitch the seam allowance at the upper collar edge flat against the undercollar.

Secure the roll width in the collar with a basting stitch. This is necessary so that the shirt collar lies nicely around the curve and there is enough fabric. This is why the upper and under collars are different sizes.

Now you can stitch the collar into the neckline and finish the seam allowance together.

The front facings are finished at the inner edge and the shoulder seam is pressed under by 1cm.

Next, place the front facings right sides together onto the front pieces and sew the front edge and neckline in one go. Make sure you align the collar seam at the neckline. Now, trim the corners again at the top of the front edge.

After turning the garment right side out, topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge flat on the facing. Then, using a hand stitch or your sewing machine, attach the small shoulder piece to the shoulder seam allowance.