Level : for experienced sewers
 
Elba in these instructions was sewn from a soft viscose jersey.

Materials needed:

We recommend a soft to medium-weight jersey

Sizes 34-42 short dress	Main fabric	1.90 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-42 long dress	Main fabric	2.20 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 40-50 short dress	Main fabric	2.10 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 40-50 long dress	Main fabric	2.40 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	Interfacing	0.55 m	90 cm diameter
Elastic 34-50 Elastic 34-50		21-25cm 70-108cm	4cm wide 2cm wide
Optional stay tape for shoulder		0.20cm

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marked notches!

Cut the pattern pieces from your main fabric and from interfacing. Place the fabric with the right side facing up. Lay the selvages parallel to the center so that you can place the back panel, skirt panels, waistband panels, and stand-up collar on the fold. All pattern pieces should lie with the text facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction for all pieces and parallel to the fabric's selvage. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm cut with scissors or with chalk. Notch the seam allowance at the fabric fold, as this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. All main fabric pieces that are completely fused with interfacing are best cut roughly first. After fusing the interfacing, cut them precisely. There is also a video on fusing and stabilizing pattern pieces.

 

 

You will need from jersey:

• 2x front panel, mirrored
• 2x front facing, inner, mirrored
• 1x back panel on the fold
• 2x yoke on the fold
• 2x skirt panel on the fold with interfacing tape at the pocket opening
• 4x pocket bag, mirrored
• 4x waistband on the fold

• 2x sleeve, mirrored
• 2x cuff, mirrored

Also with interfacing:

• 2x front facing, outer, mirrored
  
• 2x stand-up collar on the fold
  

Sewing Instructions:

For sewing this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively, use the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and a stretchy stitch. If you are sewing with a household sewing machine, you should either use a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch and then finish all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch to prevent fraying. The colored lines in the pictures show you, in addition to the description, where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern.
Have fun sewing!

You start by pulling gathering threads everywhere indicated: skirt panels at the waist seam, armscye, and sleeve hem.

The gathering threads are a tool to achieve even gathering. To do this, select the largest stitch setting on your sewing machine. Do not backstitch at the beginning and end of the basting stitches; instead, leave about 10cm of thread hanging. You will sew 2 basting stitches about 1cm apart, specifically at 0.5cm and 1.5cm from the raw edge, so that the subsequent joining seam runs exactly between the two basting stitches. Pay attention to the pattern markings to see which area should be gathered.

Then gently pull the two bobbin threads on one side and push the fabric together until you have reached the desired seam width. We will take care of the exact measurement later.

Okay, set the skirt and sleeves aside, we're going to work on the front bodice:

Sew the outer facing to the front bodice, right sides together, and press the seam allowance into the facing.

Now close the front center, right sides together, up to the notch.

Do the same with the inner facing. The seam allowance is pressed open, and the long edge of the inner facing is serged.

This isn't easy: you're going to understitch the neckline edge with the inner facing. You sew each side separately because you need to meet the center front seam precisely. Also, use your finger to push the seam allowances aside; they should NOT be caught in the stitching.

Once both sides are attached, trim the seam allowances at the front corner.

The inner facing is folded inward... where else would it go ;-) and pressed flat.

Finally, topstitch the facing at the neckline and the long attachment seam from the right side, automatically securing the inner facing.

Next, the yoke:

Lay the inner yoke with the right side facing up on the table. Place the front piece with the right side facing up on the shoulder seam of the yoke. Now pin the outer yoke with the wrong side facing up on top and close the shoulder seams.

The seam allowance is pressed into the yoke.

Now it gets tricky, but ingenious: the Burrito technique. First, sew the outer back yoke right sides together to the back panel and press the seam allowance into the yoke.

Lay the bodice right side up on the table and roll the front part up to the shoulder seam.

Do the same with the back panel, until the already attached yoke seam is on top.

 

Now take the loose yoke piece, enclose the front and back pieces with it, and sew it to the already attached yoke piece.

Pull the front and back pieces out of the burrito, and your beautifully finished yoke is complete... amazing, isn't it?

If you like, you can topstitch the back yoke seam narrowly.

You can fix the neckline and armholes in the yoke area with a basting stitch, so nothing slips when you sew on the collar and sleeves.

Next, the stand-up collar is made:

From the outer band, press the lower edge (neckline attachment seam) up by 1cm, then place the inner and outer band right sides together and sew the upper edge and the front center together.

The corners are trimmed and the upper edge is notched in several places.

Turn the collar right side out and press it flat.

Sew the inner collar right side out to the neckline, trim the seam allowances at the center front, and press the seam allowance into the collar.

Now, topstitch the outer collar neatly, and if you like, you can topstitch it all around at the same time.

Next, the sleeve:

Pin the sleeve (pay attention to the notches so you don't mix up the right and left sleeves) right sides together into the armhole and you can immediately pull the gathering threads so that the gathers are evenly distributed in the marked area.

Sew the sleeve in, remove the gathering threads, finish the seam allowance together, and press it into the sleeve.

Now grab the waistband pieces and sew one outer waistband right sides together to the front piece and one to the back piece. Press the seam allowance into the waistband.

Lay the bodice aside and prepare the skirt:

Finish the straight edges of the pocket bags and the side seams in the pocket area.

Now you can sew the pocket bags right sides together to the front skirt. Attention: The pocket bags are only sewn from notch to notch. Topstitch the pocket bag neatly within the pocket opening on the seam allowance.

Do the same on the back skirt, but here the seam allowance is NOT neatly topstitched.

Now you sew the skirt pieces to the front and back pieces respectively. Be careful not to confuse the front and back skirt pieces.

The pocket bag should NOT be sewn together at the top of the waist seam! Adjust the gathering to the waistband width.

Then remove the gathering threads and press the seam allowance into the waistband.

The side seam is closed from the sleeve hem to the skirt hem in one go... however, you should stop at the upper pocket opening, backstitch well, and continue sewing at the lower pocket opening ;-)

The seam allowance is finished together up to the pocket opening area and pressed forward.

Now close the pocket bags and finish the seam allowance together. Sew the pocket bag to the waist seam allowance at the top.

Before it gets a little "fiddly" again, finish the hem, press it up 2cm, and stitch it down.

Grab the inner waistband, sew it right sides together on one side, press the seam allowance open, and finish the waistband all around.

Pin the inner waistband at a few "key points" first, lay the open side seam on top of each other...

....then turn the dress right side out and pin at several points above and below the waistband.

Now topstitch the inner waistband from the OUTSIDE! close to the edge.

Insert the waist elastic, sew the ends together, and stretch the elastic so that the width is evenly distributed. The small "open" side seam in the inner waistband can remain open as it lies smoothly over each other.

Final stretch: The cuffs are next. Press them in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, overlock one long side, and close them right sides together on the short side. Press the seam allowance open.

Gather the sleeve hem to cuff width and sew the cuff with the unfinished side right sides together to the sleeve. Remove the gathering threads and press the seam allowance into the cuff.

Now pin the inner cuff and topstitch it from the right side in the ditch of the seam. Leave a small opening through which you will pull the elastic band. The procedure is the same as for the waist.

Once you have inserted the elastic and sewn the ends together, close the opening.

Your ELBA is ready!

If you get stuck or have any questions, feel free to contact us via email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will get back to you as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin Team.