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Length at center back =
Wiebke was sewn from a viscose in these instructions.
To the pattern Wiebke LINK
Required material:
We recommend a flowing fabric such as viscose, polyester or silk.
Sizes 34-42
- Outer fabric (140 cm wide)
- Outer fabric (140 cm wide)
Sizes 44-50
- Outer fabric (140 cm wide)
- Outer fabric (140 cm wide)
Sizes 34-50
cutting:
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can lay the back part, lower collar, upper collar and collar stand in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly.
There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.
You need from fabric:
- 2x back part skirt in opposite directions
- 1x front part skirt in break
- 1x back piece at the top in the fold
- 2x front part above in rough cut, opposite
- 4x pocket bags, 2 of each of the same kind
- 2x sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x stripe cutout in front
- 2x strips for neckline and tie
also with insert:
- 2x sleeve cuffs
Sewing instructions:
To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!
Begin by neatening the skirt parts from the front and back, only the seam to the bodice does not have to be neatened. Then close the center back seam right sides together and iron them apart.
Overcast the long straight edge of the pocket bags. Then sew them to the skirt parts between the two snaps, right sides together.
Iron out the seam on the back and flatten the seam allowances on the front. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also causes the receipt/pocket bag, if it is not specially stitched, to automatically lie inwards and not roll out. Only the receipt/pocket bag is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.
Now iron the hems according to the pattern.
Now you can close the side seams right sides together, for this you sew 1x from the hem to the end of the pocket, unfold the ironed hem again and 1x from the beginning of the pocket to the upper edge of the skirt. Make sure you don't grab the pocket bags. Then iron the seam allowances apart.
Now you can close and neaten the pocket bag. To ensure that the bag is closed all around, sew the seam allowance of the bag above and below the opening onto the ironed side seam. The upper, short piece of the bag will later be included when the upper part is sewn on.
Stitch the hem all the way around.
Gather the top edge of the skirt with 2 sewing lines, using your largest stitch length setting.
We also have a video for you for this.
Now take the rough cut for your front parts and sew the tucks according to the pattern.
Iron the tucks in the direction of what will later be the side seam.
With the help of the fine cut you can now cut your front pieces, pay attention to where your front center is.
Sew an auxiliary seam in the front and back neckline at a distance of approx. 8mm from the raw edge, this prevents the neckline from expanding.
Iron the short and long strips in half, wrong sides together.
Sew the short strips right sides together onto the neckline.
Fold in the strip and stitch on the edge from the right, making sure that the previous seam is covered. Iron the bound edges.
Overcast the stretches of the center front and close this seam.
Make sure that the edging strips meet from the right. Iron open the center front seam allowances.
Neat and sew the shoulder seams right sides together and iron them apart.
Sew the two long strips together on one short side and iron the seam apart.
Mark the center back, this is where the seam of the two stripes is. Sew the strip right sides together as on the neckline. Iron the strip towards the neckline.
Now iron the seam allowances in the strip/ribbon and turn over the ends right sides together. Turn the fallen end right side out.
Tuck the stripe into the neckline and topstitch the edge from the right, making sure that the previous seam is covered and...
... merge into the ribbons, place them on top of each other from the neckline, wrong sides together, and also stitch the edges together.
Gather sleeves at top and bottom with 2 sewing lines, using your largest stitch length setting.
Neat the edges of the sleeve that will not be gathered. Then close approx. 10 cm of your sleeve seam so that you can sew on the cuff.
Press the cuffs in half on the long side and close them in a round on the short side.
Iron the seam allowance on the inner cuff with 8mm.
Gather the sleeve hem width to the width of the cuff. Sew the cuff right sides together on the inside.
Turn the cuff outwards and stitch it tight at the edge. Make sure the first seam is covered.
Sew the sleeves to the front and back pieces, right sides together, and neaten the seam.
Sew the remaining sleeve seam and iron open the seam allowances.
Finally, gather your skirt to the width of the top and sew both parts together right sides together. Remove any visible stitching from the ruffle and neaten the seam together.
Your WIEBKE is ready!
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.
