sewing instructions for the Budapest coat

• Outer fabric 2.80 m 140 cm wide
• Lining 1.90 m 140 cm wide

sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 3.40 m 140 cm wide
• Lining 2.50 m 140 cm wide

sizes 34-50

• insert 1.60m 0.90m wide
• Buttons 3 pieces 24 mm diameter
• forming tape 2.50m
• 1 pair of raglan pads

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked

Place the fabric with the right side facing up.

The pattern pieces should all be placed with the writing facing upwards. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long cut with scissors or chalk. Markings define the positions of darts, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You will need fabric:

• 2x front part opposite (with plaque insert)
• 2x back part opposite (with plaque insert)
• 2x front sleeve opposite
• 2x back sleeve opposite
• 2x pocket bags opposite each other

Also with insert:

• 2x front part facing opposite
• 1x upper collar in the fold
• 1x undercollar in the fold
• 2x collar bar in the fold
• 1x document at the back of the break
• 2x sleeve hem facing opposite

You will need the following from lining material:

• 2x front part opposite
• 2x back part opposite
• 2x front sleeve opposite
• 2x back sleeve opposite
• 2x pocket bags opposite

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked

To sew this coat you will need a sewing machine.

In addition to the description, the colored lines on the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

You start with the front piece and close the lapel dart.

After the pattern has been transferred exactly and the markings have been carefully observed, a dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, notch by notch, from the widest point to the tip, tapering nicely (so that the dart does not bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you do not sew too much or too little and the top edge ends nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Make sure that this dart is slightly curved. The seam allowance is ironed to the front.

Then sew the lining pocket bags right sides together to the front piece and stitch the seam allowance on the pocket bag flat.

Next we move on to the back part.

Here, too, sew the pocket bags right sides together to the side seam, but iron the seam allowance apart.

Close the center back with right sides together up to the slit and iron the seam allowance open.

Now all that’s left to do is sew the corner of the letter onto the slit and the back is ready.

You place the "diagonal" in the back center/hem right sides together and stitch it. The corner is trimmed and the seam is ironed open.

Now you can close the side seams including the pocket bag in one go, right sides together. Make sure that you lock the beginning and end of the pocket opening well. The seam allowance is ironed apart; to do this, you clip the corners on the back piece so that you can iron the pocket bag to the front.

Now close the shoulder seams right sides together and iron the seam allowance apart.

Next , sew the front facing to the front piece, right sides together. Stop about 3cm before the collar insert notch. Trim the lapel corner.

Then turn the facing right side out and stitch the seam allowance flat on the facing up to the lapel. You can also iron the hem.

Now sew the back facing right sides together to the shoulder of the front facing and iron the seam allowance apart.

Next we move on to the collar. The upper and lower collars are each closed with the bar, right sides together. The seam allowance is then ironed open and topstitched on both sides from the right side, close to the edge.

Now you sew the upper and lower collar right sides together and, as with the lapel, trim the corner.

Then turn the collar right side out and stitch the seam allowance on the undercollar as flat as possible.

Next, the collar is sewn in. The upper collar is sewn to the back facing. You can cut the corner of the facing while you are sewing, then it is not so fiddly.

And because it works so well, we'll repeat the whole process with the torso and the undercollar. Then iron the seam allowances apart and clip the seam allowances or trim the corners.

The piece of lapel seam that you left open can be closed.

Now all you have to do is sew the seam allowances of the upper and lower collar together in the neck hole. You can do this with the machine, with the needle set to the far left, or by hand.

Next, we move on to the sleeve. Place the front and back sleeves right sides together and close the upper arm seam. Iron the seam allowance apart.

Then you lay the folds and fix them with a stitch... and if you can read, you have a clear advantage (I can't) even though it's clearly written on the pattern! The fold is stitched closed about 4cm FIRST!

Now sew the hem facing right sides together to the sleeve hem and stitch the seam allowance flat on the arm hem facing....

...and close the side seam right sides together. The seam allowance is ironed open and the facing is ironed into the sleeve.

Now sew the sleeves right sides together into the armholes. Pay attention to the notches. Iron the seam allowance apart up to the front and back armhole curves.

Sew a lining strip, approximately 6cm x 2cm, to the shoulder point and the side seam. The lining will be attached to this later and will no longer be able to slip.

You'll soon have done it, now all you need to do is add the food.

You start with the back part. There is a lining fold in the middle back. Sew this fold diagonally as shown in the picture and iron it to the slit on the left side of the body.

Now the front and back pieces are sewn together right sides together at the shoulder and side. The seam allowances are ironed forward.

Next, we move on to the sleeve. Place the front and back sleeves right sides together and close the upper arm seam. The seam allowance is ironed forward.

Then you lay the folds and fix them with a stitch....

....and you can now close the side seam right sides together. Note : leave an opening of about 20cm in the side seam on the left sleeve.

Now place the sleeves right sides together into the armholes.

Your food is ready!

To make feeding easier for you, we have a video for you here:

Now let's insert the lining. This is sewn to the facings right sides together, then the seam allowance on the lining is stitched flat along the edges.

Now it's time to use the lining strips. You attach the lining to these strips at the shoulder and side seam.

Now sew the lining seam of the sleeve to the outer fabric seam, right sides together. Warning : "danger of twisting!" Watch the video and everything will go smoothly.

Then turn the sleeve right side out and stitch the hem in place in the shadow of the side and upper arm seam.

After turning the sleeves right side out, turn the coat inside out to sew the lining to the hem.

You start at the front edge and sew from the fold line seam diagonally to the cut edge to the letter corner. Do the same on the other side.

Then you cut the corner.

The right side of the slit is pulled through the opening of the left side of the slit and closed.

First you pin the cross seam at the center back, up to the center back, then you clip the lining in the corner so that you can attach it to the slit. You will see that there is too much "lining length" but this will be folded. In the photo I have my thumb under the fold.

So you sew it in place and turn everything right side out.

You cut the corner of the lining.

The coat is turned right side out, the left sleeve inside out. Now you can reach through the opening of the lining sleeve to the slit and pull it through the sleeve opening. There you do exactly the same as on the other side of the slit. Then you turn the entire coat right side out.

As with the sleeve, you attach the hem to each dividing seam in the shadow of the seam. If this is not enough to hold the hem, you will need to do a few more hand stitches while the lining sleeve is still open.

Now the lining sleeve seam is stitched close to the edge.

Your BUDAPEST is ready

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please send us an email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as quickly as possible.

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your sewing pattern team