sewing instructions for coat Luzie

• Outer fabric 2.70 m 140 cm wide
• Lining 1.80 m 140 cm wide
• insert 2.60 m 90cm wide

sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 3.20 m 140 cm wide
• Lining 2.30 m 140 cm wide
• insert 2.80 m 90cm wide

sizes 34-50

• 1 pair of cushions with straight edge
• Buttons 4 pieces 24 mm diameter
• If you want to make the collar, lapels and cuffs out of fur you will need 0.45 m
• Fleece/cotton wool 5cm for the "sleeve fish" (cut 2x: 5cm x 30cm)
• forming tape 2.40m

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked

Place the fabric with the right side facing up.

The pattern pieces should all be placed with the writing facing upwards. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long cut with scissors or with chalk. Markings define the positions of darts, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You will need fabric:

• 2x back part bottom opposite
• 2x back part top opposite
• 2x side panel rear opposite
• 2x upper sleeves opposite
• 2x undersleeves opposite
• 2x sleeve cuffs opposite with hem insert

Also with insert:

• 2x front part top opposite
• 2x front part bottom opposite
• 2x side part front top opposite
• 2x side panel front bottom opposite
• 2x lapel part opposite
• 2x front part facing opposite
• 1x upper collar in the fold
• 1x undercollar in the fold
• 1x document at the back of the break

Attention: additional fixations, e.g. in the armhole, are ironed on during the sewing process.

You will need the following from lining material:

• 2x front part opposite
• 2x front part-side part opposite
• 2x upper back part opposite
• 1x lower back part in the hernia
• 2x back-side part opposite
• 4x pocket bags
• 2x upper sleeves opposite
• 2x undersleeves opposite

You will need the following from the deposit and other items:

• 2x partial fixation front part opposite
• 2x partial fixation of the back part opposite
• 2x cushions
• 2x sleeve fish (fleece)

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked

To sew this coat you will need a sewing machine.

In addition to the description, the colored lines on the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

First, you tackle the back piece. You iron the part fixation onto the upper back pieces, then you close the center back right sides together of the upper and lower back pieces and iron the seam allowance apart. Now you iron the hem interfacing into the lower back piece.

Next, sew the back side piece right sides together to the upper back piece and iron the seam allowance open. Now you can iron the shaping bands into the neck hole and the armhole.

Now all you have to do is close the back waist seam right sides together, iron the seam allowance apart and the back is finished!

Next, we move on to the front part. Sew the pocket bags right sides together to the lower front and side pieces and iron the seam allowance into the pocket bag.

Now you can close the bottom dividing seam including the pocket bag in one go, right sides together. Make sure that you lock the beginning and end of the pocket opening well. The seam allowance is ironed apart; to do this, you clip the corners on the side part so that you can iron the pocket bag to the front.

Next, iron the partial fixation onto the upper front pieces and close the lapel and waist darts. Attention : The lapel dart only has a 0.7cm seam allowance!... and you can guess three times why I'm drawing your attention to this ;-)

After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the markings, a dart is sewn on the left side of the fabric, notch by notch, from the widest point to the tip. (so that the dart does not bunch up) closed and sewn. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you do not sew too much or too little and the bottom edge ends nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Make sure that this dart is slightly curved. Iron the seam allowance apart as far as possible (cut the seam allowance towards the tip a little) and iron the rest towards the tip to the front.

The upper side pieces are sewn right sides together to the upper front pieces and the seam allowance is ironed open. You can now iron the shaping bands into the neck and armhole.

Now close the waist seam right sides together and iron the seam allowance open.

Next, we'll start with the facing. Sew the lapel facing (optionally made of fur) right sides together onto the front facing and iron the seam allowance apart. Important: only sew the lapel facing up to the notch, leaving 1cm left over.

Now sew the front facing right sides together onto the front piece. Sew the lapel curve as well, but stop about 5cm before the collar notch. Trim the seam allowance in the curve.

Then turn the facing right side out and stitch the seam allowance flat on the facing up to the lapel. You can also iron the hem.

The front and back pieces can now be sewn together right sides together at the shoulder and side seam and the seam allowances can be ironed apart.

The back facing is sewn right sides together with the front facing and the seam allowances are ironed apart.

Now it's time for the collar. I also sewed on the fur version for comparison (side tip: use an FFP2 mask when cutting and processing the fur, otherwise you're bound to end up with sneezing fits).

The upper and lower collars are sewn together right sides together and, as with the lapel, the seam allowance is trimmed in the curve.

You can see that the fur upper collar is significantly larger than the lower collar, but the more voluminous a fabric is, the more rolling width it needs.

The seam allowance of the upper collar edge is stitched flat onto the undercollar, the collar is turned right side out and ironed.

When it comes to fur, you should be very careful when steaming. The longer the fur, the less ironing you should do. You may need to use a needle to pull the fur out of the seam a little.

Next, the collar is sewn in. The upper collar is sewn to the facing. You start with the mirror seam, lock at the beginning and end,

Then sew the neckline seam, notch the neckline and trim the corners at the mirror seam. The seam allowance is ironed open.

And because it works so well, we repeat the whole thing with the torso and the undercollar.

Here you can sew the mirror seam and the neck hole in one go because there is no seam allowance (from the lapel facing) in the way. You can cut the corner of the front piece while you are sewing, then it is not so fiddly. The rest is as described above.

The piece of lapel seam that you left open can be closed.

Now all you have to do is sew the seam allowances of the upper and lower collar together in the neck hole. You can do this with the machine, with the needle set to the far left, or by hand. You've done the hardest part, bravo!!

Next, we move on to the sleeve. You close the upper arm seam of the upper and lower sleeves right sides together, iron the seam allowance open and sew the sleeve panel right sides together (optionally made of fur). Here, too, you iron the seam allowance open. You can also iron the hem.

Then sew the side seam right sides together and iron the seam allowance. Your sleeves are now ready.

The sleeve can now be inserted into the armhole, paying attention to the fitting notches. The extra width is maintained in the ball area.

Sew the "sleeve fish" into the armhole. Also sew 2 strips of lining, each about 8cm long and 2cm wide, once to the shoulder seam and once to the side seam. The lining will be attached to this later and will no longer slip.

Now sew the padding in by hand. The long edge of the padding is flush with the cut edge of the armhole. You fix the padding in place at 4 points (see first photo) with a flexible stitch. This means your hand stitch should be 0.5-1cm long.

Wow, the coat is almost finished. Just the lining left.

You take the upper back piece and stitch the lining fold at the top and bottom about 1.5cm and iron the fold towards the left side of the body.

Next, sew the back side pieces right sides together to the back piece, iron the seam to the center back and close the waist seam right sides together. The seam allowance is ironed upwards.

Now it's time for the front piece. Place the front piece right sides together on the front side piece, close the seam and iron the seam allowance towards the front center.

Now the front and back pieces are sewn together right sides together at the shoulder and side. The seam allowances are ironed forward.

The upper sleeve and lower sleeve are sewn together right sides together. The seam allowances are ironed into the upper sleeve.

Attention : leave an opening of about 20cm in the side seam of the left sleeve.

Now place the sleeves right sides together into the armholes.

Your food is ready!

To make feeding easier for you, we have a video for you here:

Now let's insert the lining. This is sewn to the facings right sides together, then the seam allowance on the lining is stitched flat along the edges.

Now it's time to use the lining strips. You attach the lining to these strips at the shoulder and side seam.

Now sew the lining seam of the sleeve to the outer fabric seam, right sides together. Warning : "danger of twisting!" Watch the video, then everything will go smoothly.

To prevent the seam allowance from "crawling out" of the sleeve, you should attach it opposite the side seam with a few hand stitches, then turn the sleeve right side out and stitch the hem in place in the shadow of the side seam.

After turning the sleeves right side out, turn the coat inside out to sew the lining to the hem.

At the front edge, start at the seam fold and sew diagonally towards the cut edge (see photo, far left). Leave an opening of about 30cm in the middle.

Then cut the corner at the front hem edge (photo on the far right).

The coat is turned right side out and the left sleeve is turned inside out. Now you can reach through the opening of the lining sleeve to the hem opening and pull it through the sleeve opening and close it.

The lining sleeve is sewn close to the edge.

As with the sleeve, you attach the hem to each dividing seam in the shadow of the seam.

Finally, punch the buttonholes into the right front piece according to the cutting markings and sew the buttons onto the left front piece. Make sure the stem is high enough to match the thickness of the fabric.

Your LUZIE is ready

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please send us an email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as quickly as possible.

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your sewing pattern team