We love the beautiful Indian summer, but we are also looking forward to cooler temperatures, clear winter nights and maybe even snow and ice. Until then, you still have enough time to sew the Roberta raglan coat. Admittedly it's not a quick and easy project, but it's definitely worth the effort. You can combine the casual and cool shape perfectly with a thick sweater and a fluffy scarf, then you will be safe from any cold draft despite the lapel collar. Further details include the wide piped pockets and the eye-catching bar in the back.
Length at center back = 104 - 108 cm
Cutting:
Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining . Place the selvages parallel to the center. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly.
Also watch our video on the topic of feeding.
You need outer material:
- 2x front part opposite
- 2x back pieces opposite
- 2x front sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x back sleeves in opposite directions
- 1x upper collar
- 1x undercollar
- 2x collar bar
- 2x front part facing opposite
- 1x back cover
- 4x pocket piping
- 2x bar back part
- 2x rear pocket bags in opposite directions
You need lining material:
- 2x front part opposite
- 1x back part in the break
- 2x front sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x back sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x pocket bags
You need from deposit:
- 2x front part opposite
- 2x front part facing opposite
- 1x back cover
- 1x upper collar
- 1x undercollar
- 2x collar bar
- 4x pocket piping
- 2x fixation of front sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x fixation of the back sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x fixation of the back part in opposite directions
- 2x hem inserts on the back part in opposite directions
- 2x hem inserts on front sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x hem inserts on the back sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x rear latch
Sewing instructions:
To sew this coat you will need a sewing machine.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
After you have cut and glued everything, the first thing you do is sew the piped pockets: transfer the pocket opening to the front pieces. Also draw the sewing line on the piping. Iron each piping strip in half.
Now pin the piping (right sides together) onto the markings so that the seam allowances are facing each other. There should be exactly 4cm between the sewing lines and 2cm from the break in the piping to the sewing line. Now sew these lines. Make sure they are square and the same length. Then check the distances again so you can be sure that the piped pocket will be straight and the same width.
Now cut the bag open (dashed line): in the middle between the two piping, until approx. 1.5cm from the end. Here you cut a triangle, down to the last stitch.
Now turn the piping inside out and iron the seams flat.
Now sew the small triangles onto the piping. Check on the front whether there is a right-angled end on the short side of the piping and whether the piping meets exactly in the middle. Hold everything firmly and fold the front piece over so you can see the fabric triangle and piping. Sew across the triangle several times (from incision to incision). Now the short sides of the pocket opening are also secured.
Now sew the back pocket bag (fabric) from the inside to the top piping seam allowance, just next to the first seam.
Sew the front pocket pouch (lining) to the bottom piping seam. Iron the seams flat.
Put the two pocket bags on top of each other and sew them together.
Sew the bust darts and press them upwards.
Then sew the top darts and iron them apart.
Sew the center back together, right sides together. Now iron the seam allowances apart and the hem facing to the inside.
Sew the back bar together, right sides together, leaving a hole for turning. Before you turn, cut small triangles out of the seam allowance on the curves so that you get nice curves. Hand sew the hole closed and topstitch the bar at 0.7 from the edge.
Sew the back facing to the two front facings, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances apart.
Sew one front and one back sleeve together at the top seam of the sleeve, right sides together. Iron the seam allowances apart and the hem facing to the inside.
Now sew the front sleeves, right sides together, onto the front pieces and the back sleeves onto the back piece, note the clips. You can then iron the seam allowances apart.
Place the front and back pieces together, right sides together, and sew the side seam, including the bottom sleeve seam. Iron these seam allowances apart as well.
Now sew the collar stays (upper curve) right sides together to the collars (lower curve). Iron the seam allowances apart and cut the collar slightly so that it lays more smoothly.
Pin the lower collar onto the upper collar, right sides together, and sew the two together on three sides, see picture. Cut triangles out of the seam allowance again, turn the collar over and iron it flat.
Sew a narrow ribbon as a hanger from lining fabric. Turn it over and iron it. Sew it to the back facing, the same distance from the center back. You can also make it out of outer fabric or use a ready-made ribbon.
Pin the front facing to the front, right sides together, and sew up to the collar insert clip. Cut triangles on the curves from the seam allowance and iron them apart.
Sew the undercollar with band to the front and back pieces and the upper collar to the front and back facing: Start with the upper collar and sew it to the curve of the back facing.
Do the same with the undercollar, which you sew to the outer coat.
The collar has two corners and so do the front facings, see also the pattern. You sew in between. On the front facing, cut the seam allowance just in front of the seam (like inserted corners).
Turn the whole thing under the machine so that the undercollar and the facing are now on top of each other and continue sewing to the middle back.
Iron the seam allowances apart and sew the two collar base seams together at the seam allowances.
Sew the front lining sleeves to the back ones, right sides together. Iron the seam apart.
Sew the darts in the front pieces and iron them up.
Place the back piece right sides together (into the fold). Sew the lining fold parallel to the center back up to the mark at the top and bottom. Iron the fold into the right back piece.
Sew the front lining sleeves to the lining front pieces and the back lining sleeves to the lining back piece. Iron the seam allowances apart.
Now you can sew the side seams. Leave a hole in the sleeve seam so you can turn the coat later. Iron these seam allowances apart, including on the open seam.
Now pin the lining to the facings right sides together and sew it from hem to hem.
Before you turn the coat, place the lining sleeves, left sides together, on the outer fabric sleeves. Fold it over so that you can pin the seam allowances right sides together. Then sew the sleeve hem. Turn the coat through the hem that is still open. Iron the seam allowances on the front and sleeves into the lining from the outside.
Also pull out the sleeve hems and sew the seam allowances together so that the hem cannot slip down.
Pin the lining to the hem, right sides together, and sew it in place. Sew a bow from the front edge towards the lining, see picture. Here too, sew the seam allowances on the dividing seams together so that the hem facing does not slip down. You can turn the coat and iron the hems through the hole in the lining sleeve.
Now sew the hole in the lining close together.
Now stitch the front edge 0.7cm from the outside, up to the lapel fold. From there, stitch the lapel and collar on the inner side of the coat, again up to the lapel fold and then backstitch on the outer side to the hem.
Close the hole in the sleeve.
Sew buttonholes onto the front piece and back bar as marked on the pattern. Sew the matching buttons on the front and back pieces.
Your ROBERTA is ready!
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.
