Nähanleitung Cabanjacke Val

Sewing instructions caban jacket Val

The Peacoat Val is our first joint project with the blogger woman.aw aka Annika. The models from frau.aw are characterized by puristic design and clear shapes. The Jacket is slightly oversized and boasts many details. The wide lapels with the Napoleon collar, which can be closed with a hook, as well as the back yoke with a box pleat. Wide welt pockets, a one-sided yoke at the front and the shoulder and sleeve straps make the winter jacket a challenging sewing project. For many processing details you can find videos on our YouTube channel.

Length at center back = 67-71 cm

Val was sewn from a wool fabric in this pattern.

→ To the pattern “Val”


Required material:

We recommend a heavy jersey walk or wool fabric, you can also use a compact cotton for the transition.

Sizes 34-42

  • Outer fabric 3.00 m (140 cm wide)
  • Lining/quilted lining 1.80 m (140 cm wide)
  • Insert 1.80 m (90 cm wide)

Sizes 44-50

  • Outer fabric 3.50 m (140 cm wide)
  • Lining/quilted lining 2.20 m (140 cm wide)
  • Insert 2.20 m (90 cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

  • Buttons 8 pieces 24 mm diameter
  • Buttons 2 pieces flat/ 24 mm diameter counter buttons
  • Buttons 4 pieces 16 mm diameter
  • Hook/eyelet each 1 piece/ collar/ Prym No. 9
  • Molding tape 65 cm 12 mm wide

In advance for you as information:


Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the yoke-back-pleated base, upper collar, undercollar, facing-back and collar stand in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

If you want to make your Val out of corduroy, note that corduroy is cut against the grain and the welt pocket is cut with the grain. We have a video for you about this.

If you want to make your Val out of checked fabric, then note that the pattern pieces of the collar and welt pockets are cut diagonally with the grain.

In this video, Dagmar shows you the best way to cut checked fabric.

You need from fabric:

  • 1x back part in break
  • 1x Koller rear pleated floor in the break
  • 2x Koller rear opposite
  • 1x Koller-front-right
  • 4x sleeve tabs, 2 of each of the same kind
  • 1x hanger (optionally also made of lining material)
  • 1x ribbon epaulettes
  • 2x pocket slip opposite
  • 2x sleeves-rear opposite
  • 2x sleeves in front in opposite directions

also with insert:

  • 2x front part in opposite directions
  • 2x receipt front opposite
  • 1x upper collar in break
  • 1x lower collar in the break in the diagonal grain
  • 2x pocket placket in opposite directions in the slanted direction of the grain
  • 1x document-back in the rupture
  • 2x collar stand in break
  • 2x shoulder straps
  • 2x arm bars
  • 2x sleeve hems - front and back, opposite
  • 1x hem back piece

also with band:

  • 2x neckline front part
  • 2x neckline sleeves in front
  • 1x neckline slip at the back

You need from feed:

    • 1x Koller-front right
    • 2x pocket bag-1 in opposite directions
    • 2x pocket bags-2 in opposite directions
    • 1x back part in break
    • 2x front part in opposite directions
    • 2x sleeves-rear opposite
    • 2x sleeves in front in opposite directions

    Sewing instructions:

    You will need a sewing machine to sew this coat.

    In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.

    When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!

    Happy sewing!

    Tumble the short stretch of pocket ledges right sides together.

    Then turn them right side out and iron them flat.

    Lay the strips right sides together on the front piece according to the markings on the pattern and stitch them in place.

    Here you can see a detailed photo of the sewn-on right bar.

    Process the pocket receipts by overcasting them along the long stretch...

    ... and then sew on the edge of the pocket bag-1.

    Lay pocket bag-1 flush with right sides together on the opposite side of the bar and stitch it onto the front piece. However, do not sew exactly parallel to the seam of the bar, start approx. 0.7 cm later and end 0.7 cm earlier so that this seam does not show when the bar is folded up.

    Stitch the pocket bag-2 right sides together onto the bar along the sewing line.

    Here you can see a detailed photo of the finished bag.

    Cut an opening as shown in the photo.

    Turn the bags inside out and stitch the placket just under the edge or, for those in the know, in the shadow of the seam onto the front piece.

    Close both pocket bags together and fix them at the front edge with an auxiliary seam.

    Now come to the processing of Kollers-front-right. Lay the fabric and lining pieces on top of each other, right sides together, and close the rounded seam.

    Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also causes the lining to automatically lie inwards and not roll out. Only the lining is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

    Stitch the lining onto the fabric along the raglan seam to keep it secure and in place.

    Neat the side seam of the front yoke.

    Stitch the yoke along the raglan seam on the front part of the right side of the body. Remember to stop 2-3cm before the side seam so that the front yoke can be sewn together with the back yoke later.

    Neaten the side seams and hems of the back yoke parts and the hem of the pleated bottom.

    Press the hems up according to the pattern and prepare everything.

    Place the pleated base between the two back pieces, right sides together. Note that you turned the hems up. This will guarantee you a better fall of the back crease. Neaten the seam allowances together.

    Then you topstitch the fold in the center back according to the pattern by placing your processed back piece right sides together in the fold and topstitching through to the marking.

    Steppe in the shape of a triangle, it serves to provide additional security for the bottom of the folds.

    Sew the prepared yoke along the raglan seams onto the back piece, wrong sides together. Remember to stop just before the side seam on the right side of the body to be able to work the front yoke neatly.

    Now place the right front piece on the right back piece, right sides together, and stitch the side seams of both yokes together. Iron the seam allowances apart.

    Push the yoke aside and sew the side seams on both sides right sides together. Iron the seam allowances apart.

    Now you can sew the remaining open seam of the raglan seam.

    Sew up the hem of the yoke with a hand stitch or topstitch the hem.

    Work the armbars right sides together, trim the corners, turn them right side out and iron them flat.

    Then place them right sides together at the markings on the front sleeve and hold them with an auxiliary seam.

    Sew the upper raglan seam and the inner arm seam right sides together.

    Prepare the shoulder strap by working it like a belt loop.

    Work the shoulder straps right sides together, cut the corners, turn them right side out and iron them flat.

    Sew the epaulettes and band along the pattern according to the markings.

    Place the sleeves right sides together in the armholes on the torso.

    Now come to the receipts front and back. Sew them together right sides together and press open the seam allowances.

    Sew the facings on the front edge of the jacket right sides together up to the collar snap on the front pieces and trim the seam of the curve.

    Now process the collar by folding the upper collar right sides together with the lower collar. Trim the seam allowance and turn the collar right side out.

    Note the roll width (the upper collar is slightly larger) and sew the two edges congruently together with an auxiliary seam.

    Now place the bars right sides together around the collar and sew them to the collar. Also close the short sides and trim the corners for easier ironing. In the middle of the short sections you can leave an opening of approx. 1cm, here you can then insert the hook and eye and sew on the seam allowance.

    The bridge is turned and ironed and your collar is finished.

    Now sew the outer bridge to the prepared jacket, right sides together.

    Make a hanging strap out of lining or outer fabric and position it in the middle between the back facing and the inner bar.

    Now sew the facing to the inner web. Iron the seam allowances apart and sew the ironed-out seam allowances together with a hand stitch. That way the seam won't be too thick.

    Watch our video with tips and tricks for processing a lining.

    Process the back lining by sewing the back sleeves to the back piece, right sides together.

    Process the front lining by sewing the front sleeves to the front pieces, right sides together.

    Sew the upper arm and side seams of the front and back pieces right sides together. Make sure to leave a 15cm opening in the left sleeve so that you can turn the jacket inside out later.

    Attach the finished lining to the linings all around, right sides together.

    Sew the sleeve hems right sides together with the lining sleeves. Finish the folded-up hems with a hand stitch or pin the seam allowances together at the seams.

    Fix the armpit point on the seam allowances with an auxiliary seam. Before you sew the lining to the hem, it is also advisable to fix the folded-up hem with a hand stitch, making sure to leave a gap of at least 1.5 cm to the edge so that the lining can be sewn on in a relaxed manner.

    Stitch the hem right sides together to the lining as far as you can get. Start with the facing directly at the edge of the hem and let the seam run in at an angle of one centimeter from the lining (see photo).

    Join the other side together right sides together and stitch as far as you can. Start with the facing directly at the edge of the hem and let the seam run in at an angle of one centimeter from the lining (see photo).

    The remaining open hem of the jacket is pulled through the sleeve and closed from there. Turn everything right side out and close the opening in the sleeve with a tight edge.

    Make the buttonholes on the front edge according to the pattern, also those for the two opposing buttons on the left side of the body and on the sleeve tabs and sew on the buttons accordingly. The double row of buttons has no function, note that the counter-buttons on the inside of the jacket are also sewn onto the top button and the third button from the top. The sleeve bar can be buttoned in two different positions, sew on 2 buttons according to the pattern.

    Make the buttonholes on the shoulder straps according to the pattern and sew on the buttons accordingly.

    Your VAL is ready!

    If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.

    Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

    Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.

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