Nähanleitung Marlenehose Anke

Sewing instructions for Marlene pants Anke

Pants don't always have to be slim and tight or look like jogger pants. With the Marlene pants you get some variety in your wardrobe. Narrow cut in the upper area, wide flared towards the hem. Without big details, Anke is also a feasible trouser pattern for those of you who are not yet so experienced. The upper edge of the trousers is processed without a waistband, only with a narrow elastic band. The pants have no pockets, only the side seam zipper. Just try it.

Length from top edge = 111 cm

In these instructions, Anke was sewn from a viscose/polyester/elastane mixture.

→ To the pattern "Anke"

Required material:

We recommend a flowing wool fabric or a polyester-viscose blend.

Sizes 34-38

  • Outer fabric 1.40 m 140 cm wide

  • Elastic band 0.75 m 1 cm wide

Sizes 40-46

  • Outer fabric 2.20 m (140 cm wide)

  • Elastic band 0.90 m (1 cm wide)

Sizes 48-50

  • Outer fabric 2.50 m (140 cm wide)

  • Elastic band 1.05 m (1 cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

  • Seam ripper 1x 22 cm long

In advance for you as information:


Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

If you want to make your anchor out of corduroy, note that corduroy is cut against the grain. We have a video for you about this.

If you want to make your Anke out of plaid fabric like in this tutorial.

In this video, Dagmar shows you the best way to cut checked fabric.

You need from fabric:

  • 2x front trousers in opposite directions

  • 2x hind trousers in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew these pants you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

If you use a seam zipper, you also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

First, neaten all raw edges except for the hem.
Now iron in the creases by placing the trousers parts, wrong sides together. Note the notches and markings on the pattern pieces.

We start by sewing the waist darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart content towards the center back.

Now sew the two side seams together, right sides together. On the left pant leg, leave the top piece open for the zipper. Iron the seam allowances apart. Iron up to the zipper snap on the left pant leg.

Now pin the seam zipper open, right sides together, onto one of the zipper seam allowances and sew it in place, paying attention to the width of the seam allowance. At the bottom you sew on the seam allowance, next to the existing seam a few stitches before you end.

Zip up and zip the other side of the pants together.

Now sew the other side in the same way. Do not iron this seam so the zipper will "hide" in the seam.

Next, sew the inner leg seam. From the crotch syringe to the next snap, the hind trousers must be stretched slightly. Iron the seam allowances apart.

To sew the crotch seam, turn one trouser leg right side out and slide it into the unturned trouser leg so the trouser legs are right sides together and you can easily sew the crotch seam from front to back. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Sew the elastic band slightly stretched onto the outside of the upper edge of the pants.

Fold the seam allowance along with the elastic to the wrong side and stitch.

Neat the trouser hems, press the hem inwards and topstitch it.
Finally, you iron your trousers properly, especially the creases.

Your ANKE is ready!

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.

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