Sewing instructions for Dora nightdress

The Dora nightdress has a loose fit and a deep V-neck and drawstring waistband for a very feminine look. For a special detail, you can add a matching lace trim to the bottom hem.

Length at the center back = 95 – 101 cm

→ To the “Dora” pattern

Dora was sewn from a soft jersey in this tutorial.

Required materials:

We recommend a soft jersey and a contrasting satin in viscose or polyester.

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	1.30 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-42	Great	1.25 m	6 cm wide with scalloped edge
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	2.30 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Great	1.50 m	6 cm wide with scalloped edge
Sizes 34-50	insert	0.40 m	90 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	satin ribbon	2.00 m	1 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the front, back, front neckline, and back neckline on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm slit with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing. After you have secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and fixing cut pieces.

You will need fabric:

• 1x front part in the fold
• 1x back part in the fracture
• 1x tunnel
• 2x armhole band opposite

also with insert:

• 1x neck hole panel at the front of the break
• 1x neck hole panel at the back of the break

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew this nightgown you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and a stretch stitch. This means that if you're using a home sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or a three-part stretch stitch. Then, finish all seam allowances with a zigzag stitch or another similar stitch to prevent fraying. The colored lines in the images show you, in addition to the description, where a seam needs to be sewn or glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

We begin by sewing the bust darts. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch, and the side seam ends nicely and straight.

To avoid having to tack the dart, sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart's contents upwards.

Place the front and back pieces on top of each other, right sides together, and sew the side seams. Neaten them together and press the seam allowances to the back.

Iron the tunnel 1cm all around.

Then, pin the tunnel to the markings in the pattern and sew it close to the edge. To do this, roll the still open shoulders down for easier sewing.

Now you can close the shoulders, neaten them together and iron the seam allowance to the back.

The armhole bands are sewn together on the short side, right sides together, with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowances open, and then fold the band, wrong sides together, into the fold.

To make it easier to work with and to prevent it from stretching, stitch the armhole band all the way around, the width of your stitching foot.

Then place the prepared armhole bands, right sides together, into the armhole and stitch them through.

Now turn the ribbon inwards and stitch it from the right side, the width of your stitching foot.

Here you can see a detailed view of the finished armhole on the left side of the fabric.

Sew the neckline facings together at the front and back with 1cm and iron the seam allowances open.

Then iron the outer edge 1cm all around.

Pin the prepared neckline facing, right sides together , to the neckline on the front and back pieces and stitch it in place. The seam allowance for the lower neckline point and the curve at the neck are trimmed separately. This will allow the facing to be easily turned outward later.

The seam allowance is stitched flat as far as possible. This method not only simplifies the final ironing, but also ensures that the facing, if not topstitched, will automatically tuck inward rather than roll out. Only the front piece is stitched close to the seam allowance. The stitching line is then visible only from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side. The neckline is then turned outward and ironed to fit.

If you're using lace trim for the hem, first overlock the hem and then sew on the lace. However, if you're not using lace, you can fold the hem over twice 1.5 cm and stitch through it using the width of your topstitcher.

Finally, pull the satin ribbon through the tunnel with a safety pin, cut the ends diagonally, and lightly burn the fibers with a lighter. This melts the polyester fibers, preventing the ribbon from fraying too quickly.

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as quickly as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.