Sewing instructions for the Colombo jumpsuit
We recommend flowing fabrics such as viscose, thin cotton fabrics or silk.
Sizes 34-42 : Outer fabric 3.30 m (140 cm wide)
Sizes 44-50 : Outer fabric 3.50 m (140 cm wide)
Forming strip: 1.5m
2 buttons
1cm wide elastic band 0.65m
Colombo was sewn from an embroidered cotton fabric in this tutorial.
Cut:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay out the back piece, collar stand, undercollar, and upper collar on the fold. All pattern pieces should be laid with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the dart ends. Clip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. There is also a video here about working with bias tape.
- 2x sleeves, mirrored
- 4x pocket bags, opposite each other
- 1x diagonal strip for eyelets
- 4x trouser leg level 5 hem opposite
- 2x trouser leg level 4 thigh front opposite
- 2x trouser leg level 4 thigh back opposite
- 1x front part stage 1 top outside in the break
- 1x front part stage 1 inside in the fold with shaping tape
- 2x back section level 1 rear outside opposite
- 2x back section level 1, back inside, mirrored with shaping tape
- 1x front part stage 2 front in break
- 2x back section level 2, reversed
- 2x front part stage 3 front opposite
- 2x back section level 3, back inside, opposite
Sewing instructions:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!
To sew this overall you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.
The colored lines in the pictures show you, in addition to the description, where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
You start by preparing ALL the gathers at stages 3-5.
You'll need to add gathering stitches to the top edge. These help create even gathers. To do this, select the longest stitch setting on your sewing machine. Don't backstitch at the beginning or end of the gathering stitches; leave about 10 cm of thread leading. Sew two gathering stitches about 1 cm apart, one 0.5 cm and the other 1.5 cm from the cut edge, so that the final seam will run precisely between these two stitches.
First, take level 5. Place the prepared seam against level 4 and carefully pull the two bobbin threads on one side, gathering the fabric until you reach the seam width of level 4. Now you can distribute the gathers evenly. Pin the two seams right sides together and sew the seam.
You neaten the seam allowance together and iron it upwards. Then you remove the raking threads by pulling out the bobbin thread.
The same process continues with levels 4 and 3.
You've now sewn the back of your trouser leg together. Finish the raw edge of your side seam.
The front leg of the trousers is processed in the same way, from stage 3-5.
Finish your side seam and...
While you're at it, you should also finish the side seam edges on all the pocket bags.
Next, we'll work on the pocket bags. The front of the trousers is covered with a bias tape in the area of the pocket bag; on each side, the bias tape is 1 cm longer than the pocket opening.
Now you can sew the pocket bags to the front and back trouser legs, right sides together. Important: The pocket bags are only sewn from notch to notch.
You topstitch the front pocket bag close to the edge on the seam allowance inside the pocket opening.
Next, close the side seam from the hem to the lower pocket opening, then continue from the upper pocket opening to the top edge. Press the seam allowance open, pressing both pocket bags forward as you go.
Now you close the pocket bags and neaten the seam allowance.
Next, we'll work on the trouser legs. Place the inseam right sides together and sew the seam. Make sure the princess seams align perfectly. Finish the raw edges of the seam and press it towards the front.
Turn one pant leg right side out and the other wrong side out. Tuck the right-side-out pant leg into the right-side-out pant leg. The right sides of the fabric should now be facing each other. Pin the seat seams together, making sure the inseam and notches line up. Sew the seam and finish the raw edge.
If you want to make Colombo without sleeves, you'll find a short additional guide here! After that, skip the next 6 pictures and continue directly with sewing the second step together!
Next, we'll move on to the upper level. Place the top pieces right sides together at the shoulder. Make sure the inner pieces are sewn with bias tape and the outer pieces without. Sew the shoulder seams and press them open.
Now the top pieces are joined together at the neckline. Place the pieces right sides together and pin the seam. Make sure the shoulder seams are aligned. Sew them together all the way around, starting at the center back.
Then the seam allowance is clipped with scissors.
The seam allowance is topstitched close to the edge on the inner bodice piece. Now turn the bodice right side out and press the edge. The image below shows a close-up of the topstitched seam. Why is this done at all? So that the inner piece doesn't stick out to the front and you can press the curve more easily.
Next, sew the side seam together. To do this, unfold the piece and place the front side seam right sides together with the back side seam. The fold lines should align!
Warning: be careful not to twist anything here.
Iron the seam allowance open and fold everything back as shown in the picture.
Next, sew the two back pieces of the bodice to the front bodice, right sides together. Finish the two side seams together and press the seam towards the back.
Then pull two more row threads into the top edge (pink line).
Carefully pull the two bobbin threads on one side and gather the fabric until you reach the seam allowance of the upper yoke. Distribute the gathering width between the points marked on the pattern. The fabric must lie flat against itself under the armholes without gathering. There is a marking for this on the pattern. At the center back of the slit, level 2 is positioned 1 cm above level 1. Sew the level in place and press the seam allowance upwards into the yoke.
A brief detour to the eyelets.
- Iron the small strip lengthwise towards the center and then on top of each other.
- Then, stitch the ribbon together close to the open side.
- Cut the ribbon in half (you can trim off the rough ends) and lay the ends side by side. Adjust the eyelet length to match your button size.
- Secure these with a temporary stitch.
Attach the two eyelets to the back center using a temporary stitch.
Now comes the big ironing. You have to iron the edge of the inner yoke 1cm to the wrong side of the fabric. The seam allowance of the slit is ironed over twice by 1cm, and at the same time, the center back edge of the yoke is also folded over by 1cm. Phew, so much ironing, I thought we were just sewing here ;)
Now fold the inner and outer top pieces (level 1) together at the center back, right sides facing. Leave the pressed seam allowance of the inner top piece facing upwards and sew the center back seam (the small section) together. Trim the corner and turn the whole thing right side out.
This is what the corners look like upside down. You can use a pin to push the corner out a little more.
Before you finish sewing the upper section, you need to sew the armholes together with a basting stitch. Make sure that the seam and the notches are aligned exactly.
Next, pin the pressed edge (this is the view from the inside) onto the seam. The pressed edge should cover the seam allowance by 1-2 millimeters. The seam allowance should be facing upwards into the yoke. The slit is folded inwards by 2 x 1 mm. My tip: then insert pins from the right side and remove them from the left side, because...
...you topstitch the bodice close to the edge from the right side. This seam will be visible in the end!
Step 2: Chain the back center seam to the beginning of the slit.
Close the seam in the back center up to the beginning of the slit, see snip.
Stitch the slit firmly all around, 1cm wide.
Next, we'll work on the sleeve. Overlock the side seams and the hem.
Iron the hem inwards according to the marking.
Stitch your gathering threads into the armhole according to the markings and gather the ball.
Close the sleeve seam up to the hem edge, then fold the hem upwards.
Carefully pull the two bobbin threads on one side and gather the fabric until you reach the seam allowance of the armhole. Distribute the gathering width between the points marked on the pattern.
Insert your sleeve right sides together into the armhole and sew the seam. Pay attention to the notches so you don't mix up the sleeves. The back sleeve cap and the back piece are marked by closely spaced double notches.
The armhole is finished with a chain stitch.
Stitch the hem. Leave a small opening at the sleeve seam through which you thread the elastic band using a safety pin until both ends of the elastic are sticking out.
Place the rubber ends together and sew them together. Now slide the rubber into the tunnel and close the small opening.
Place the back center of the upper step together and mark the button position at the end of the loop. Sew the buttons on using a thread that is approximately as long as the eyelet is thick.
Now you can sew level 3 onto level 2. The steps are the same as described in pictures 3-5.
You're wondering why we don't iron and stitch the hem?
Our fabric has a small scalloped edge, which we used as the hem. You'll still need to finish your hem though :)
Your Colombo jumpsuit is finished.
If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.