Sewing instructions for overalls Kelly

Level : medium - for experienced

Required material:

We recommend flowing fabrics such as viscose, thin cotton or silk.

Sizes 34-50 : Outer fabric 3.20m (140cm wide)

Sizes 34-50 : Jersey 0.50m (140cm wide)

 

Kelly was sewn in this tutorial from a viscose print.

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric with the right side facing up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can lay the back piece, collar stand, under and upper collar on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long cut with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance on the fold of the fabric because this is always the middle. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. There is also a video here about processing shaped bands.

 

You will need fabric with shaping tape:

• 2x front part opposite
• 2x back part opposite

You need fabric

• 2x binding tape opposite
• 2x bias strip long ribbon
• 1x bias strip for short straps and eyelets
• 4x pocket bags opposite

You need from Jersey:

• 1x front part in the fracture
• 1x back part in the fracture

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

To sew this overall, you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively, you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges. For the inner jersey part, be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretch stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a household sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch and then neaten all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch so that they do not fray.

In addition to the description, the colored lines on the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

First, neaten the front and back center WITHOUT the neckline, then the side seams WITHOUT the sleeve hem and the straight side of the pocket bags.

Now you can sew the pocket bags right sides together onto the side seams. Important: The pocket bags are only sewn on from notch to notch. You topstitch the front pocket bag on the seam allowance inside the pocket opening.

Then place the front side seam right sides together on the back side seam and close it from the hem to the bottom pocket opening, then from the top pocket opening to the sleeve hem. The seam allowance is ironed apart, ironing the two pocket bags to the front.

Now close the pocket bags and neaten the seam allowance. You can fix the pocket bag at the top to the seam allowance with 2-3 stitches.

 

Next, sew the inner leg seam by placing the seams of the front and back pieces right sides together. Iron the seam allowances apart. You should now have two halves of the overalls.

The hem can be finished. Iron the hem 2x 2cm and stitch it.

Now you can put the two halves of the overalls together: To do this, turn one piece of the overalls right side out and put the trouser leg into the piece that is not turned inside out. This way, the entire section from the front center over the crotch seam to the back center is nice and straight and you can sew them together easily. Make sure that the inner leg seams are exactly on top of each other. You can stitch this seam twice in the crotch area. The seam allowances are ironed apart from the neckline to the curve.

Now put the overalls aside and grab the bias strips.

Fold the bias strip in half, right sides together, and stitch it in the middle. If the seam allowance is a bit irregular, trim it a little.

Now take a darning needle (which has a rounded tip), a sturdy thicker thread (this minimizes the risk of the thread breaking when pulling it through), and sew the thread at one end.

Now push the needle and thread through the "tube" with the needle head first until you have turned the entire strip inside out.

The smoother your fabric is (e.g. satin), the better it "slides".

If you want the ribbons to be a little "slimmer", iron them flat while pulling. You can then trim the length.

Since we are currently making "tubes" and turning them inside out, sew the belt together right sides together at the center back and iron the seam allowance open. Then turn the belt right sides together. Leave a small opening for turning. Carefully cut off the tips.

Instead of a darning needle, take a wooden spoon, put the end of a belt over it and push it until you reach the opening.

After ironing, stitch the belt all around the edges, which will automatically close the opening.

Next, you'll tackle the jersey inner part. Don't forget to use a jersey needle for this.

You start by sewing the bust darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the left side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip. (with it  the dart does not bunch up) is closed and sewn. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you do not sew too much or too little and the side seam ends nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Then iron the dart upwards.

The front and back pieces are placed right sides together and the side seams are closed. The seam allowance is neatened together and ironed to the front.

Now you can neaten the hem and the armholes, then both are folded over 1cm and topstitched.

The needle can be changed again. Before you connect the inner part to the overalls, prepare the ribbons. Cut 2x 5cm from the short bias tape for the eyelets, 2x 7cm for the bar at the neckline and 2x 4cm for the bar at the sleeve/shoulder point.

A tip in advance (from my own definitely bad and time-consuming experience): mark "front" and "back" on the overalls with a piece of paper!!

You attach the eyelet with a stitch to the back neckline of the overalls and the 6cm bar to the back shoulder.

Now sew the back neckline and the shoulder piece together with the jersey piece until you get to the notch where the right side of the fabric (overalls) meets the wrong side of the fabric (jersey). Then trim the seam allowance, the corner and notch the "V" of the neckline.

Dear people,

When I was finished, I realized that I had messed up. The jersey part was sewn the wrong way round! So don't let some of the photos confuse you:

The jersey part must have all seams against the body, as if you were wearing a T-shirt. I accidentally used it as a lining, sorry! If you look into the wide armholes of my piece, you can see the seam allowance of the jersey... très chic..

 

The seam allowance of the neckline is stitched flat onto the jersey.

Now follow the same procedure for the front neckline:

You fix the long ribbons with an auxiliary stitch.

Since the short bar is already sewn on at the back, you now have to clamp it in between when turning the neckline. The tricky thing is to make sure you don't twist anything.

The remaining steps are the same as for the back neckline. The trickiest part is behind you!

The shoulder is now ironed over 2x 0.7cm and stitched.

Now comes the finale. You fix the 3.5cm bar to the back sleeve hem/shoulder point....

...then iron all sleeve hems 2x 0.7cm, insert the bar into the front piece and fix it here with 2-3 stitches.

Finally, all sleeve hems are quilted.

Your KELLY is ready

If you want, you can sew crochet loops onto the side for the tie. You can find out how to do this here .

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please send us an email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as quickly as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Best regards, your Schnittmuster-Berlin Team.