Wide, airy trousers are ideal for the warm season and that's why we have developed a pair of elegant pleated trousers as a sewing pattern for you. With the incredible width thanks to the pleated folds in the trouser legs, you will definitely feel comfortable.

→ To the pattern “Smeralda”

In these instructions, Smeralda was sewn from a polyester pleated fabric.

Required material:

We recommend a soft, flowing viscose, silk or polyester satin in pleats.

34-42 Outer fabric 1.60 m 140cm wide
44-50 Outer fabric 1.90 m 140cm wide
34-42 Rubber band 65-81cm 3.0cm wide
44-50 Rubber band 86-103cm 3.0cm wide


Please note that when cutting, you leave the pleated blind connected to the paper and cut both at the same time. Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric . Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the waistband on the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread up arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clippings from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk . Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends , pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or a pin .

What you need from fabric:

  • 2x front and back pants in opposite directions
  • 1x waistband in break

Sewing instructions:

To sew these trousers you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Please note that when cutting, leave the pleat connected to the paper and cut both at the same time.

Start with the pant legs. Both trouser legs are fixed all around with an auxiliary seam for better stabilization and fixation of the pleats. We recommend that you place a piece of cardboard under the sewing foot when sewing to make it easier to transport over the pleated folds.

Finish the hems of the trouser legs with an overlock machine and then iron them 1cm...

... and step through.

The hem must then be ironed back into its pleated shape and flat.

Now take your pant legs and close the inside leg seams. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

Next you can close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out and tuck this trouser leg into the unturned trouser leg so that the crotch seams are nice and straight. The seam allowances are neatened together.

Another auxiliary seam on the fold of the waistband prevents unnecessary width when pulling in the elastic and wearing it later.

The waistband is also specially stitched all around and has an auxiliary seam.

This is what the prepared federal government looks like.

The lower inner raw edge of your waistband is neatened.

Now the center back can be placed, right sides together, and sewn together with a centimeter. An opening is left open between the two seams for the elastic to be inserted. Then iron the seam allowances apart and the waistband in the fold.

The waistband is pinned to the trouser opening with the unfinished raw edge, right sides together, and sewn in place. Pay attention to the clips in the cut. The seam allowance is ironed upwards into the waistband.

The ironed waistband is now completely sewn to the trousers by attaching the folded waistband with pins, viewed from the right, and then stitching the finished seam in place in the shadow of the seam (i.e. below the waistband seam).

The elastic band cut to your body measurements can now be pulled through the sewn waistband with a safety pin and sewn together. You can sew the opening by hand.

This is what the finished waistband of your new pleated trousers looks like.

Your SMERALDA is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.

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