PULLOVER “COLLEEN” SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

When sewing Colleen you can use your fabric scraps, ideally mixed wildly and colorfully. If you only want to use one fabric, we recommend a striped jersey or fine knit. The panels can then be cut horizontally in stripes, creating a special contrast to the rest of the sweater . The special detail is clearly the wide panels on the neckline.

Length in the middle back = 52 – 56cm

→ To the pattern “Colleen”

In these instructions, Colleen was sewn from a viscose jersey.

Required material:

We recommend jersey or a soft knitted fabric , preferably striped.

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	1.20 m	140cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	1.30 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-42	Contrast bezels	0.40m	140cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Contrast bezels	0.50 m	140cm wide

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the front and back pieces and panels at the back and front in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

What you need from fabric:

• 1x back part in the break
• 1x front part in the break
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions

What you need from contrast fabric:

• 1x panel at the back in the break
• 1x front panel in the break
• 2x facing sleeves in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew this sweater you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretchy stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a household sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch Neaten so they don't fray.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

As you may have noticed in the previous sewing instructions, we always like to prepare some parts before we start sewing. Preparation for this sweater involves overcasting and ironing the hems of the front and back, paying attention to the clips in the cut.

Likewise, prepare the sleeves by overcasting and ironing the hems, paying attention to the clips in the cut.

Now let's move on to the neck hole panel, which in our sewing example is made of a different color. All panel parts are ironed and prepared inside out, left to left. The sleeve band is then sewn together with the front band, which is marked by a V-clip, right sides together. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Next, the front band is sewn together, right sides together, with the sleeve band. The sleeve trim is also sewn together, right sides together, with the trim at the back. Here too, iron the seam allowances apart.

The neck hole panel is closed in the round by sewing the back panel together, right sides together, with the sleeve panel. The seam allowances are then ironed apart.

This is what your finished neck panel looks like, ironed inside out, inside out.

We continue with sewing off the bust darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the dart contents upwards.

Now take the sleeves and, right sides together, close the inner arm seam. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

You also sew the side seams together, right sides together. Finish the seam allowances together and press them backwards.

Now the prepared hem of the front and back pieces can be folded over and stitched through.

You also fold the prepared sleeve hems over and stitch them through.

The neck hole panel is fixed with an auxiliary seam within the seam allowances (preferably 0.5cm wide). This prevents you from stretching out when sewing in the panel.

Sew the sleeves, right sides together, to the front and back pieces. The seam allowances are neatened together.

The prepared neck hole panel is sewn, right sides together, to the front, back and sleeve necklines. Pay attention to seams that meet. FYI: The front panel is shorter than the rear panel. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed down.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also ensures that the seam allowances of the panel do not move upwards, they are fixed, so to speak. Only the body parts are stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances.

This is what your finished neckline should look like with the band at the end.

Your COLLEEN is ready !

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.