The Lova raglan sweater is the result of our collaboration with Julia from the creative laboratory. As the saying goes... we threw our core competencies together and the result was a Pull i that we all love. The special thing about Lova is the collapsed button placket in the front raglan seams on both sides. It's not exactly easy to work with, but with Julia's great illustrated sewing instructions it's guaranteed to be achievable by anyone.
Required material:
We recommend jersey and knit fabrics that have good stretch.
Sizes 34-42
- Outer fabric 1.30 m 140 cm wide
Sizes 44-50
- Outer fabric 1.45 m 140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50
- Buttons 6 pieces 10 mm diameter
- Insert 0.10 m 90 cm wide
Cutting:
The pattern already contains 0.7 cm seam allowances and 2 cm hem allowances on the sleeves and on the bottom
Federation. The neck hole does not contain any seam allowance as it is finished with a binding strip.
- 1 x front part
- 1 x Back
- 2 x buttonhole trim
- 1 x front binding strip
- 1 x rear binding strip
- 2 x sleeves (opposite/mirrored)
Sewing instructions
You can use an overlock machine or a household sewing machine to sew your sweater. The
Stitch must be stretchy, meaning if you're sewing with a household sewing machine, you should either
Use a zigzag stitch or the three-part stretch stitch. If you sew with a household sewing machine,
You should then finish all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch so that they don't fray.
When cutting, transfer all of the marked clips onto the fabric - these are the small ones perpendicular to the cutting line
running lines. Either you make a small mark with a self-erasing marker or a
Make a 3mm long incision with scissors.
If you use a very fine fabric, you should reinforce the button strips on one side with a thin iron-on fleece.
Depending on the material, it may be necessary to reinforce all four button strips or just the two that will be added later
the buttonholes are worked.
From size 42 onwards, a bust dart is included in the pattern. To do this, cut out the arrow-shaped dart marking from the paper pattern and then place the pattern on your cut front piece (wrong side of the fabric). Using a trick marker or tailor's chalk, transfer the arrow-shaped marking to the wrong side of the fabric on both sides of your front piece.
Slightly lift the fabric along the markings and form an arrow-shaped fold according to the markings.
Fix the dart with 2 needles that you insert exactly into the marking. Then stitch the dart from the outside
inwards with a small stitch width. Do not backtack the seam, just let the threads hang.
Knot the open threads 3 times and then shorten them just behind the knot.
Press the dart upwards. From the front it now looks like this (right photo).
Before we sew the sweater completely together, we first work on the buttonhole panels. Iron the buttonhole trim on the sleeves at the fold edge to the right side of the fabric.
For a better overview, the ironed-on panel is now opened again in the photo on the left. Place the sweater front piece (on top of the photo) right sides together along the rounded armhole edge of the sleeve (on the bottom).
at. Fold the buttonhole panel over at the edge of the ironing, right sides together…
... and then fold the seam allowance of 0.7 cm over to the left side of the fabric again. Pin them in place. Draw
Add a seam allowance of 0.7 cm along the armhole curve and across the bottom edge of the buttonhole panel.
First, sew the armhole curve starting at the side edge of the sleeve and then 0.7 cm ABOVE the folded seam allowance on the buttonhole panel. Sink the needle into the fabric there, lift the sewing foot and turn both layers of fabric under the needle by 90 degrees so that you can then stitch the lower edge of the buttonhole panel.
Cut the seam allowance directly at the corner (cross) until just before the seam. Then reach into the buttonhole placket
inside and turn it over to the nice fabric side.
Make sure that the seam allowances are completely inside. Iron the buttonhole panel smooth again and stitch
trim the open edge with a narrow edge. Work the buttonhole band on the other side in the same way
Front part with the second sleeve.
Now iron the 2 individual buttonhole panels together lengthways in the middle, left sides together (see folded edge in the pattern).
The counterpart to the buttonhole trim must now be attached to the front part. You can see one in the pattern section
small notch where the buttonhole band has to be attached.
The front part and attached sleeves are now turned so that the right side of the fabric is on top. Put the
Ironed buttonhole trim, right sides together, to the bottom edge of the recess on the front (arrow marking
on the photo). The edge of the buttonhole facing points outwards (i.e. towards the finished buttonhole facing).
Sleeve).
Here too, mark the seam allowance of 0.7 cm, as well as the point up to which you will sew: up to 0.7 cm in front of the
open edge – see cross marking in photo. Then stitch the bottom edge of the buttonhole band on the
marked seam allowance.
Cut the seam allowance diagonally until just before the end of the seam (see white line in photo). Then turn it
Buttonhole facing upwards towards the open edge on the front of the sweater.
Pin the buttonhole trim there. You can cut off the protruding corner at the bottom seam allowance.
Then stitch the long edge of the buttonhole panel onto the front piece with a 0.7 cm seam allowance. You can neaten the open seam allowances on the edges of the buttonhole panel with the overlock machine or the zigzag stitch on your household sewing machine.
Now place both buttonhole trims flush on top of each other and check that everything sits well and is flush.
Mark the top center of the front piece and the center of the front binding strip with a small nipper.
Then place the binding strip, clip by clip, right sides together, on the neckline of the front piece. Stuck
Then stretch it slightly - make sure that the strip protrudes 0.7 cm on both side edges (see photo
next page).
The binding strip extends 0.7 cm beyond the front part on both side edges.
Then stitch the binding strip with a 0.4 cm seam allowance and stretch it as you sew it on. Then fold it
open short edges of the binding strip, right sides together. If you only use the edging strip later
If you simply want to fold it over, you now have to neaten the open long edge with an overlock machine.
Stitch the bottom edge directly next to the buttonhole band (do not sew into the buttonhole band!) to 0.4 cm (approx
half the width of the strip). Trim the excess seam allowance. Likewise, you also overturn the other short one
Side of the binding strip.
Then fold the corner of the binding strip onto the nice side of the fabric and place it around the top edge of the neck hole
Front part around. Fold the seam allowances on the binding strip inward so that they are completely inside
of the edging strip disappear. You can also simply fold the edging strip over so that the
The (previously overcast) seam allowance rests directly on the inside of the sweater at the neckline.
Fold the binding strip around the seam allowances on the neckline to create a neat neckline edge
results. Then stitch from the front directly on the seam between the front piece and the binding strip
along. You can also sew 1-2 mm on the binding strip to make sure you cover the bottom edge
included.
Now sew the back of the sweater onto the two open arm curves on the sleeves. To do this, lay both layers of fabric
right to right, flush on top of each other and use the clips as a guide.
Then topstitch the seam with 0.7 cm.
Repeat the same for the second sleeve.
Now sew the back binding strip to the back neckline (from buttonhole band to buttonhole band).
Mark the center back of the back piece and the center of the binding strip with a clip.
Then place the binding strip along the neckline starting from the middle, gently pressing it
stretch. On the short side edges the edging strip protrudes 0.7 cm again.
Stitch the binding strip with a 0.4 cm seam allowance and stretch it as you sew it on. Then fold the open ones
short edges of the binding strip, right sides together.
Stitch the bottom edge directly next to the buttonhole band (do not sew into the buttonhole band!) to 0.4 cm (approx
half the width of the strip). Trim the excess seam allowance. In the same way you also overturn the other short one
Side of the binding strip.
Then fold the corner of the binding strip onto the nice side of the fabric and place it around the top edge of the neck hole
Back part around. When doing this, fold the night pieces on the edging strip inward so that they are completely inside
of the edging strip disappear.
Fold the binding strip around the seam allowances on the neckline to create a neat neckline edge
results. Then stitch from the front directly on the seam between the front piece and the binding strip
along. You can also sew 1-2 mm on the binding strip to make sure you cover the bottom edge
included.
Then turn the sweater right side out and place the buttonhole panels flush on top of each other. Draw yourself on the one above
Place the markings for your buttonholes on the buttonhole facings.
Insert the buttonhole foot on your sewing machine and select the appropriate settings on your sewing machine.
Then work the three buttonholes.
Then carefully tear open the middle of the buttonholes with a seam ripper or nail scissors.
Then mark the position for your buttons on the buttonhole panel below.
Sew the buttons (3 per side) on by hand and then close the button strips.
Now fold the sweater right sides together again and place the sleeve and side seams flush on top of each other.
On the underarm seam, place one seam allowance up and one down so that it is as flat as possible
fabric layer results.
Then pin the sleeve and side edges together on both sides and topstitch them with a 0.7 cm seam allowance.
Turn the sweater right side out. Now try on the sweater and see if you still need to shorten your sleeves (2
cm must protrude as these will be folded in afterwards). Then finish the open sleeve hems
the overlock machine or a zigzag stitch. Then fold it 2 cm inwards and pin it in place.
Stitch the sleeve hems at 1.5 cm with a stretch stitch.
Finish the bottom hem of the sweater with the overlock machine or a zigzag stitch. Then iron it 2 cm
inside and pin it. Stitch the bottom hem at 1.5 cm with a stretch stitch.
