Sewing instructions for Toni sweater

3 novembre 2021

We're passionate about patterns with special details, so even simple cuts need to be eye-catching. The Toni sweater features a beautiful V-neck and two crossed ribbons emerging from the shoulder seam. This makes the neckline appear more modest and creates a great décolleté. The sweater 's fit is rather slim and therefore feminine, but this in no way compromises its comfort. The sleeves, which flare out towards the hem, are gathered into a high cuff.

Length at the center back = 63 – 68 cm

→ To the “Toni” pattern

Toni was sewn from a soft jersey in this tutorial.

Required materials:

We recommend an elastic jersey or knit.

Outer fabric	Sizes 34-42	1.40 m	140 cm wide
Outer fabric	Sizes 44-50	1.60 m	140 cm wide
insert	Sizes 34-50	0.40 m	90 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing . Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the front, back, and facing on the fold at the front and back. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the thread take-up arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long snip with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Note that bust darts must be used for larger sizes and above. Notch the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center. Markings define the positions of dart ends , pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or a pin . It is best to cut out all outer fabric pieces that are to be completely covered with interfacing roughly first. After you have secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and fixing cut pieces.

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

You will need fabric:

1x back part in the fracture
1x front part in the break
2x front part band 1 opposite
2x front part band 2 opposite
2x cuff
2x sleeves opposite

also with insert:

1x receipt-back in the break
1x receipt-front in the break

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

To sew this sweater you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and a stretchy stitch. This means that if you're using a home sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part stretch stitch. Then, finish all seam allowances with a zigzag stitch or another suitable stitch to prevent fraying. The colored lines in the images, in addition to the description, show you where to sew or glue a seam.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Sizes 44-50 have a bust dart. Sew this according to the pattern. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the point (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to avoid over-stitching and ensure a nice, straight side seam.
To avoid having to tack the dart, sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart's contents upwards.

Start with the most complicated part of your new sweater: the crossed ribbons on the front. Take the ribbons and place them all, right sides together, in a folded position, and sew them together. Press the seam allowances open; you can use a thick, flat pencil to help you do this. Then, turn the ribbons right side out with a safety pin and lay everything flat. The seam should be centered.

Turning the straps will most likely have stretched a bit. If this is the case, you'll need to trim them to the correct length according to the pattern.

Now take the front and back pieces and sew both shoulder seams, right sides together, up to the first notch on the back piece. You can secure the shoulder seams with a silicone band, especially if you're using a very soft fabric.

Here you can see a detailed view of the shoulder seams.

Neaten the lower edges of the facings before processing them.

Now lay the ribbons in front of you and interlace them. Pay attention to the different lengths and their positions in the pattern. Once you have the ribbons correctly crossed in front of you, you can secure them together with pins and then pin them into place at the positions in the neckline. Then place the front facing over them, right sides together. For points, cut the seam allowances with scissors. This will spread the point apart when turning, and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. For this reason, we recommend sewing just before the point and away from it with a shorter stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after cutting. The seam allowance of the curve should also be notched slightly.

This is what your finished neckline should look like. Sew the ribbons together at the top with a stitch.

Place the back facing, right sides together, against the neckline of the back piece. Here, too, the seam allowances of the curve are slightly notched.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat, as far as possible. This method not only simplifies the final ironing, but also ensures that the facing, if not stitched separately, automatically tucks inward and doesn't roll out. Only the facing is stitched onto the seam allowances, close to the edge. The stitching line is then visible only from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Now you can sew the upper band ends, right sides together, to the shoulders.

Now close the remaining shoulder piece with a seam and neaten the entire seam. Trim the corner of the facing beforehand so it doesn't show when turned inside out.

Turn and turn all facings into the correct position and iron the shoulder seam allowance backwards.

Sew the side seams together as usual, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances. These are then ironed to the back.

Now you can neaten the hem all around.

Now let's move on to the cuffs on the sleeves. Sew them together, right sides together, and press the seam allowances open.

Iron the cuffs right side out and sew a stitching seam the width of the quilting foot inside the opening.

Close the inner arm seam, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances. Press these to the back. The bottom hem of the sleeve is gathered. Add a large auxiliary seam and gather it 4 cm larger than the circumference of the cuff. This allows the cuff to stretch to fit the sleeve later, allowing for some slack when you put it on.