SEWING INSTRUCTIONS PAJAMA “DORIS-DEVON”

The Doris-Devon pajamas are a classic two-piece set, consisting of a long-sleeved top with a simple blouse collar, buttoned down the center front and comfortable trousers with an elastic band. The pajamas are comfortable, but not oversized. Simply perfect for feeling good.

Length at center back = 70 – 77 cm

Side length = 100 cm

→ To the pattern “Doris-Devon”

In these instructions, Doris-Devon was sewn from a soft viscose.

Required material:

We recommend a flowing cotton, viscose or silk.

Sizes 34-38	Outer fabric	3.10 m	140cm wide
Sizes 40-44	Outer fabric	3.80 m	140cm wide
Sizes 46-50	Outer fabric	4.40 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	inlay	1.00 m	90cm wide
Sizes 34-50	Rubber band	0.60 m	2cm wide
Sizes 34-50	Buttons	6 pieces	12mm diameter

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the back piece and upper/lower collar in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

We start with the DORIS pajama blouse:

What you need from fabric:

• 2x front part opposite
• 1x back part in the break
• 2x pockets in opposite directions
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions

also with insert:

• 2x receipts on the front opposite each other
• 1x upper collar in the break
• 1x undercollar in the break / slanted thread course

also with form band:

• 2x neck hole front part
• 1x neck hole back part

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Start your sewing work with the pockets. There is a template in the cut that you can use so that the curve is beautifully finished. Prepare the patch pockets for the front. After you have ironed all seam allowances with 1cm, the opening on the upper edge of the bag is folded in and folded over 2x 2cm (or according to the pattern), and the edge is stitched.

We continue with sewing off the bust darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart contents upwards.

The clip on the pocket helps you orientate what is there in front. Pin the bag on your right side of the fabric with pins according to the markings in the pattern, left side to right.

And slowly and carefully stitch it through to the edge. To secure the corners of the opening, you can make an approx. 1cm long diagonal stitching from the corner towards the pocket. This is the so-called pocket latch. Can also be used as a bar with a dense zigzag stitch.

The side seams are closed with 1.5cm and neatened together. Press the seam allowances back.

The shoulders are closed and the seam allowances are neatened together. Iron these backwards.

Take the sleeves and close them with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Here too, the seam allowances are then neatened together and ironed to the back.

According to the snapshots, the sleeve is inserted into the pattern, stitched together and the seam allowances are finished together.

The receipt is cleaned all around. To do this, follow the yellow dashed line.

The previously neatened long edge of the facing is then ironed over by 0.5cm and stitched through with 0.2cm.

The facing is sewn, right sides together, to the front, as well as the small lapel corner up to the clip. The top corner is cut away. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened and cut or cut off with scissors. This means that the corners don't become too thick when turned and the seam allowances can be laid nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.

Iron the seam allowances apart. This method makes it easier to iron out and toss the receipt.

The upper and lower collars are twisted together. To do this, place both collars on top of each other, right sides together, and stitch all around. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened and cut or cut off with scissors. This means that the corners don't become too thick when turned and the seam allowances can be laid nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out. Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outer edges, this will flatten them nicely and secure them.

The seam allowance on the inner collar (upper collar) is ironed 1cm between the clips.

The collar can be put aside for now. The hems are turned in and out twice, ironed and stitched. The receipt is opened, but has already been neatly ironed into the edge. This way everything will be nice and clean at the end.

The sleeve hem is also turned in and out twice, ironed and stitched.

The outer collar is sewn to the prepared body up to the clip.

The inner collar is stitched together with the facings. The seam allowances are then ironed apart. The seam allowances on the front pieces and facing are ironed apart and on the back piece upwards.

Now the collar can be finally closed by grabbing the seam allowances that are on top of each other and sewing them together. The short side of the facing is then stitched to the seam allowance on the shoulder.

Then the still open part of the collar is closed with a seam close to the edge.

Secure the facing with a small bar on the hem.

You can find the buttonhole positions in your pattern. Transfer this to yourself and stitch your buttonholes.

The last step is to sew on the buttons.

Your DORIS is ready !

We continue with the DEVON pajama pants:

What you need from fabric:

• 2x rear pants opposite
• 2x front trousers opposite
• 2x pocket at the back
• 1x waistband
• 2x hem trim
• 2x ribbons

Sewing instructions:

To sew these trousers you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

The opening for the ribbon must be covered with insert. To do this, refer to the labeling in the section.

Prepare the patch pockets for the front. After you have ironed all seam allowances with 1cm, the opening on the top edge of the bag is folded in and folded 2x 2cm (or according to the pattern),...

... and just stitched edge.

Pin the bag on your right side of the fabric with pins according to the markings on the cut.

And slowly and carefully stitch it through to the edge. To secure the corners of the opening, you can make an approx. 1cm long diagonal stitching from the corner towards the pocket. This is the so-called pocket latch. Can also be used as a bar with a dense zigzag stitch.

As soon as all trouser legs are prepared with pockets, yokes, etc., all raw edges (see yellow line in the photo) can be neatened.

Now the trouser legs can be sewn together. Take the front and back trouser legs and place them on top of each other, right sides together. Close the side seam of the front and back pants with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Work on both legs and then iron the seam allowances apart.

The inside leg seams are sewn together at 1.5cm . Don't be surprised that the distance between the buttocks and the knee on the back pants is slightly shorter than on the front pants. Stretch this section a little so that it fits. This cutting trick ensures that the pants fit better. The neatened seam allowances are ironed apart.

Next you can close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out, tuck this trouser leg into the other one that is not turned, so that the crotch seam is nice and straight on top of each other and you can easily sew them together up to 1cm above the lower edge of the top flap. Make sure that the inside leg seams line up exactly. The neatened seam allowances are ironed about 10-15 cm apart at the center back and front.

Let's now turn our attention to the edges on the hem, the so-called panels. Both are processed in the same way. Close into a round with 1cm and iron the seam allowances apart.

Then iron it in half in the fold and pin the seam to the inside leg seam of the prepared trousers.

The panels are sewn to the trouser legs, right sides together, and the seam allowances are neatened together.

Finally, the seam allowance is ironed upwards and the panels are ironed downwards.

We continue with the waistband of your new pajama pants, but first we prepare the two ribbons for it. To do this, the seam allowances are turned inwards, everything is ironed in half and stitched just to the edge or the width of a quilting foot.

The waistband is sewn together in a 1cm round, the seam allowances are ironed apart...

... and ironed the entire waistband in half in the fold.

The buttonholes for the ties are made before the elastic is stitched on. Cut a rubber band to the length and width indicated in the pattern. The seam of the waistband is in the center back.

The elastic and the two prepared ribbons are sewn onto the side seam and secured well. To do this, use the snapshots as a guide. Pull your two ribbons through the buttonholes provided.

A seam with a large stitch further secures the waistband. Be careful not to accidentally sew on the elastic.

Finally, the waistband is sewn to the prepared trousers with a 1cm seam allowance, neatened together and ironed flat at the bottom.

Your DEVON is ready!

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.