Sewing instructions for the Sabete raglan raincoat

5 mai 2021

From now on, bad weather is no longer an excuse. With our Sabete raincoat , you'll be perfectly prepared for dog walks or hiking excursions, even in the rain. If the dark clouds clear up while you're out and about, you can fold Sabete and stow it in its back pocket, then wear it like a cross-shoulder bag . Bound edges, a two-way zipper at the center front, patch pockets with flaps, and a large back pocket for storing the coat are Sabete's special details. Depending on the material, you can choose between two finishes: with bound edges or the classic hem allowance.

Length in the center back = 103 – 107 cm

→ To the “Sabete” pattern

In this tutorial, Sabete was sewn from a transparent and rubberized fabric.

Required materials:

We recommend a water-repellent or rubberized outdoor fabric.

Outer fabric	Size 34-42	2.30 m	140 cm wide
Outer fabric	Size 44-50	2.80 m	140 cm wide
2-way zip	Size 34-50	1 piece	65 cm long
Turning tearer	Size 34-50	1 piece	25 cm long
edging tape	Size 34-50	10 m	20 mm finished
rubber band	Size 34-50	1.0 – 1.15 m	3 cm wide
cord stopper	Size 34-50	2 pieces
cord	Size 34-50	1.00 m	0.7 mm diameter
eyelets	Size 34-50	2 pieces	0.7 mm diameter
Backpack buckle	Size 34-50	1 piece	3 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

The fabric we used is not ironable. Test this with a test iron beforehand and skip ironing if necessary. Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the back and hood on the fold at the front. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long snip with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You will need fabric:

1x back part in the fracture
2x front part opposite
2x hood in front in the break
2x hood at the back opposite
1x back pocket
2x pocket flap opposite
2x pocket flap inside opposite
2x front pockets opposite each other
2x sleeves at the back opposite
2x sleeves opposite each other at the front
2x sleeve facings opposite

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew this coat you will need a sewing machine.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide! Happy sewing!

We'll start with the sleeves of our new coat. Take the front and back sleeve pieces, place them together, right sides together, and sew the shoulder seams together.

We placed the seam allowance to the front and stitched it with a stitch the width of a quilting foot.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how the sleeve has been processed so far.

Sew the sleeve facings, wrong sides together, with a 0.5cm stitch. We want the seam allowance to be on the outside.

The highlight of our new coat is the seam allowances, which are finished with pre-purchased bias binding. The seam allowance of the sleeve and the placket are bound with this bias binding. This way, the visible seam allowance is neatly finished with the piping.

The hem of the panel is also edged with bias tape.

To prevent the seam allowance of the facing from sticking out quite so much, we stitched it down at the marked positions.

The sleeve inseam is placed right sides together and sewn together. Note the seam allowances in the pattern.

You'll insert the eyelets into the outer hood at the front. To do this, proceed as follows: Using a hole punch or the punch included in the set and a hammer, punch a hole large enough to accommodate the matching "eyelets with washers." The position of the eyelets is marked on the pattern. Secure the position on the inside left side of the fabric with an additional piece of scrap fabric.

The eyelets and washers are placed in the tool according to the manufacturer's instructions, the two tool arms are folded together and the eyelets are hammered into the fabric.

The remaining fabric, which was secured for additional security, is now trimmed to a minimum. Your eyelets are finished!

Then take the hood pieces from the back and sew them together, right sides together.

We placed the seam allowances to the left and secured them with a stitch the width of a quilting foot.

Now place the front hood piece, wrong sides together , on the previously sewn back hood piece and sew them together with a 0.5cm auxiliary seam. Here, too, the seam allowance should be visible on the outside, because...

… these seam allowances are also edged with bias binding.

We continue with sewing the bust darts. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch, and that the side seam ends nicely and straight.
To avoid having to backstitch the toe, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Fold the dart contents to the top. Tip: If the elastic fabric slides under your foot, use a cardboard template and place it between the foot and the fabric.

The upper edges of the front pocket are folded over twice and stitched close to the edge.

We secured the position of the pocket with an adhesive strip, then folded it over 1cm and secured it with a seam close to the edge.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the front pocket.

The pocket flap is placed right sides together on the inside of the pocket flap and sewn all the way around.

For curves and corners, trim seam allowances with scissors and then cut or trim. This prevents the corners from becoming too thick when turned, and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It's especially important that the seam isn't cut. Therefore, we recommend sewing just before the point and away from it with a shorter stitch length. This ensures a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge former. Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outer edges; this makes them nice and flat and secures them. We topstitched everything to the width of a quilting foot.

The prepared pocket flaps are placed, right sides together, in the position in the front piece and sewn on with 1cm.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how the pocket flap was sewn on.

This is then stitched down and secured with an additional seam.

The front piece is now prepared and can be sewn together with the back piece, right sides together, at the side seams.

The side seam is stitched and fixed to the back with an additional stitch the width of a quilting foot.

Now you can stitch the previously prepared sleeves, wrong sides together , into the body with a 0.5cm auxiliary seam. Here, too, the seam allowance of the raglan seam will be visible on the outside...

… and bordered all around with a bias stripe.

Now take your prepared outer hood and place it, right sides together, against the neckline of the torso. Sew both layers together with a 0.5cm stitch.

Now it's time to work on the second front hood piece. Sew this piece, right sides together, to the inside of the coat.

This seam allowance is then also bound with bias binding. The inner hood facing can then be folded upwards...

… and secured with a 0.5cm auxiliary suture.

The entire front edge is also edged with bias binding.

Next, you can add your zipper to the front piece. To do this, follow the zipper markings on the pattern, place the zipper under the bias binding, and sew along the same stitching as the bias binding.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how we sewed in the zipper.

The hood tunnel is quilted through and through at an even distance from the front edge and the elastic is inserted beforehand.

Front view of the finished jacket.

Now let's move on to the back pocket. The zipper may need to be shortened. If this is the case, the raw edge must be secured with a bias strip. Place the back pocket, right sides together, over the zipper and stitch it in place. Make sure the seam allowance at the end of the zipper is also folded in.