Sewing instructions for Arta skirt

Level : for experienced

Side length with waistband = 40-50 cm, hem width = 88-127 cm

Required material:

We recommend cotton, linen or an opaque blend as the skirt is not lined.

Sizes 34-38 : Outer fabric 1.10m (140cm wide)   

Sizes 40-44 : Outer fabric 1.30m (140cm wide)

Sizes 46-50 : Outer fabric 1.80m (140cm wide)

All sizes: insert 0.60m (90cm wide)

Zipper 1 x 16cm

Button 1x 2cm

In this tutorial, Arta was sewn from a thin denim fabric.

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut the pattern pieces out of your outer fabric. Lay the fabric with the right side facing up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle. The pattern pieces should all be placed with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long cut with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold of the fabric, as this is always the middle. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to cut all outer fabric pieces that are to be completely covered with interlining roughly first. After you have secured the interlining, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need fabric:

• 1x front part upper step
• 1x front part underlap
• 1x back part in the fracture
• 2x pocket bags opposite (top and bottom flap)
• 1x hem facing at the front in the fold
• 1x hem facing at the back in the fold
• 1x underlay (zipper facing)

Also with insert and/or molding tape:

• 2x waistband at the back in the fold
• 2x waistband front upper step opposite
• 2x waistband front underlap opposite
• 2x pocket bags inside opposite

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked

To sew this skirt you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines on the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

You prepare the front part first.

Neaten the centre front, from the underlap to the zipper stitch, and from the overlap to the zipper stitch.

Now you place the folds and fix them with a stitch.

Now you can close the front center, right sides together, up to the end of the zipper (notch mark) and iron the seam apart. Then iron the upper and lower flaps according to the cutting mark. You have to cut the seam allowance on the lower flap so that it lies flat.

Next, take the inner pocket bag and neaten the front edge.

Then place it right sides together on the pocket opening and sew the pieces together. Then clip the seam allowance several times in the curve so that it lays nicely when ironed.

Now you can stitch the pocket opening as desired. In our example, it is stitched along the edges.

Then take the "large" pocket bag, neaten the center back and sew the darts.

After the pattern has been transferred exactly and the markings have been carefully observed, a dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, from the widest point to the tip, tapering nicely (so that the dart does not bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you do not sew too much or too little.
So that you don't have to lock the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Then iron the dart to the front.

Make sure that this dart is slightly curved.

If you like, you can then stitch it from the right edge.

The large pocket bag is placed under the front skirt with the right side of the fabric facing up. Now you can pin the pocket bags together on the inside.

The pocket bags are sewn together and then finished together.

Now you fix everything together at the waist and side seam with auxiliary stitches.

Now you prepare everything for the zipper. You take the zipper facing, fold it lengthways, right sides together, and turn the bottom edge. Then you turn it right side out and neaten the long side. Next, you sew the zipper flush onto the facing. Use a zipper foot so that the distance to the rail is perfect.

The ironed underlap is stitched to the zipper side with the facing. Make sure that you also grab the pocket bag at the front edge.

Close the zipper, lay the skirt flat in front of you, pin the center front and fold the fly side to the right. The fly facing covers the zipper.

You attach the upper part to the zipper, but fold the zipper facing to the side.

Now you can sew the zipper in place.

Now stitch the decorative seam and secure the overlap while the zipper facing is folded away. Fasten just before the underlap begins.

Then lay the skirt flat in front of you with the zipper closed and "complete" the decorative seam, now the flap needs to be included. You can make a zigzag bartack at the front center. You can use the quilting template to help with the curve. Phew, that's done!

Next, close the center back of the large pocket bag and iron it open.

The back piece is now inserted, the seam is neatened together and ironed to the back.

If you want, you can also stitch this seam as desired.

Now it's time to do the hem facings. Sew them together right sides together at the side seam, iron them apart and neaten the top hem edge.

Then turn the skirt hem and stitch the seam allowance down onto the facing, then stitch the hem through at 3.5cm.

Now just the cuff, buttonhole and button and you've done it.

Close the sides of the inner and outer waistband right sides together and iron them apart, then neaten the bottom edge of the inner waistband.

Now, with right sides facing, sew the inner and outer waistband together. Leave 1cm open at the bottom of the front edge, then trim the corners, turn the waistband right side out and iron the sewn edge flat.

Then sew the outer waistband right sides together to the skirt and iron the seam allowance into the waistband.

Before you stitch the waistband all the way around from the right side and secure the inner waistband in place, fold the inner waistband under slightly at the front edge.

Now just a button and buttonhole!

Your ARTA is ready!

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please send us an email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as quickly as possible.

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!

Best regards, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.