Sewing instructions for Chicago skirts

Level Professionals

Side length including waistband = 109 cm

Materials needed:

We recommend lightweight denim, cotton, virgin wool, pinstripes

Sizes 34-40 : Outer fabric 1.90m (140cm wide)

                          Insert 0.60m (90cm wide)

Seam-covered zipper 1 x 22cm

Sizes 42-50 : Outer fabric 2.40m (140cm wide)

                         Insert 0.60m (90cm wide)

Seam-covered zipper 1 x 22cm

All sizes of 0.40m compression tape

Cut:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center. All pattern pieces should be placed with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the dart ends. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut out all outer fabric pieces that will be fully interfacing first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut them out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need the following fabric:

• 2x front trousers, mirror images
• 2x back pants, mirror images
• 1x skirt front in fold
• 2x Rock-side-front opposite
• 2x Rock-side-back opposite
• 2x skirt back opposite
• 2x large pocket bags, opposite each other
• 2x small pocket bags with elasticated tops, opposite each other
• 1x Band Belt Loops for 4 pieces

also with insert:

• 2x front waistband in the fold
• 2x waistband back inside, mirrored
• 2x back outer waistband, opposite each other

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked

To sew these trousers you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.

If you're using an invisible zipper, you'll also need the appropriate presser foot for your sewing machine. The colored lines in the pictures, in addition to the written description, show you where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

First, you sew the darts into the front and back of the trousers.

A simple, straight dart is created, after the pattern has been accurately transferred and the markings carefully observed, on the wrong side of the fabric, notch to notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the point. (with it  (The dart doesn't bunch up) closed and sewn. Draw a line beforehand with tailor's chalk so you don't sew too much or too little and the waist seam finishes nice and straight.
To avoid having to backstitch at the point, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart filling towards the center front and center back.

Then you finish the raw edges of the trouser legs all the way around, except for the waist edge.

Now sew the trouser legs together, right sides facing. Place the front of the trousers on top of the back and sew the side seam and the inseam. Press the seam allowances open.

You should now have two identical trouser legs.

Next, close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one pant leg right side out and insert it into the other, unturned pant leg. This will ensure the crotch seam lies perfectly straight, making it easy to sew. Make sure the inseams are aligned. Double-stitch this seam. Note: Leave the center back seam open for the zipper. Press the seam allowances open from the waist to the curve.

Now iron the hem and topstitch it. The pants are finished... if you think "oh, that's enough," then skip the next 9 pictures, sew on the waistband and the zipper, and voilà, DONE!

Next up are the skirt pieces:

Grab the front side panel and stitch the small pocket bag to the pocket opening, right sides together. Clip the seam allowance at the curve, then topstitch flat along the edge of the pocket bag, turn right side out, and press.

Place the large pocket bag on the table with the right side facing up, and then place the side piece with the small pocket bag flush on top. Now you can sew the pocket bags together and finish the seam allowance.

Now all skirt pieces are finished all around, except for the waist edge and the "slant" of the mitered corners.

In the next step, you create the letter corners by folding the "slant" in half and stitching them together.

Then you clip the seam allowance in the corner so you can iron it open. Next, turn the mitered corner right side out.

Now you can join all the skirt pieces right sides together. Press the seam allowances open.

Finally, iron the hem and stitch it all the way around, including the slits.

The skirt is finished!

The skirt is pulled over the trousers and secured at the waist and zipper with a basting stitch.

Before the waistband is made, you make the belt loops:

You finish one long edge, fold over the unfinished edge, and then fold the finished edge over it. Next, topstitch close to the edge on both sides and divide the loops into four equal parts.

You attach the belt loops to the waistline according to the cutting line markings.

Now sew the side seams of the inner and outer waistband together, right sides facing, and press the seam allowances open.

The bottom edge of the inner waistband is finished.

Now sew the outer waistband to the trousers right sides together and iron the seam allowance into the waistband.

Next, you need to attach the appropriate zipper foot to your machine. There are several types of zipper feet; this is one of them.

The seam ripper is then inserted in the back center up to the top edge of the waistband.

The seam allowance of the skirt part must be clipped.

The inner waistband is sewn to the seam allowance of the seam ripper.

Now you can turn the top edge of the binding to the inside.

Carefully trim the seam allowance at the corners.

The seam allowance of the upper waistband edge is topstitched flat onto the inner waistband. (Yellow line) Then, from the right side, in the shadow of the waist seam, you topstitch the inner waistband in place. (Purple line)

Finally, you stitch the belt loops onto the top of the waistband.

Your CHICAGO is finished!

If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible.

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your sewing pattern team