SEWING INSTRUCTIONS SHIRT “EVA”

If you like to wear loose, wide tops , you have found exactly the right model with our Shirt Eva sewing pattern . The overcut shoulders and the slightly longer back give the shirt its casual shape. The feminine boat neckline and narrow sleeves contrast beautifully. Even sewing beginners can trust the pattern.

Length at center back = 63-69 cm

→ To the pattern “Eva”

In these instructions, Eva was sewn from a Tencel woven fabric.

Required material:

We recommend a flowing fabric such as silk, polyester satin or viscose.

Sizes 34-40	Outer fabric	1.45m	140cm wide
Sizes 42-50	Outer fabric	2.00 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	inlay	0.40m	90cm wide

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the front, back, facing at the front and back in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts, note that bust darts must be used from size 42. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

What you need from fabric:

• 1x back part in the break
• 1x front part in the break
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions

also with insert:

• 1x receipt at the front in the break
• 1x receipt at the back of the break

also with form band:

• 1x receipt at the front in the break
• 1x receipt at the back of the break

Sewing instructions:

To sew this shirt you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing !

Sizes 42-50 have a bust dart, sew this according to the cut. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart contents upwards.

Then iron the hems from the front…

... and the back piece double in and around. Pay attention to the clips in the cut.

You can also iron the hems of the sleeves accordingly.

Overcast the side and shoulder seams from the front…

... and back part.

You also overcast the sleeve seams.

When making the receipts, neaten up the lower cut edge.

The front facing can then be sewn onto the front piece, right sides together. For curves, seam allowances are clipped in with scissors. The seam allowances can then be laid nice and flat when tossed. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut.

... and the back facing is placed right sides together on the back piece and sewn...

The seam allowances are then stitched flat as far as you can get them. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Now you can sew the shoulders of the front and back pieces and the unfolded facings together, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances apart.

Stitch the facing around the neck hole.

Now sew the sleeves to the body, right sides together. Finish the seam allowances together.

Close the underarm seam right sides together with the side seam in one go, stopping at the slit marking. Then iron the seam allowances apart.

Stitch the prepared hems close to the edge before processing the slit.

Then you iron the slit according to the cut and stitch the edge with a small roof all around.

Here you can see a detailed view of the slot processing.

You can also secure the hems of the sleeves with a quilted seam.

Your EVA is ready !

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.