Sewing instructions for Wilma shirt
You can never have too many beautiful summer shirts! The Wilma shirt is incredibly versatile and pairs perfectly with both trousers and skirts. Its unique feature is the small bell and lace sleeves, which add a touch of understated elegance to any outfit. We also offer a version with long balloon sleeves, so you can create a fantastic top for cooler days.
Length at the back center = 55-60 cm
Wilma was sewn from a viscose jersey in this tutorial.
Materials needed:
We recommend a flowing jersey fabric .
Sizes 34-42
- Outer fabric 1.00 m x 140 cm wide
- Long-sleeved top, outer fabric 1.50 m x 140 cm wide
Sizes 44-50
- Outer fabric 1.10 m x 140 cm wide
- with long sleeves, outer fabric 1.60 m x 140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50
- Tip 0.90m x 140cm wide
- or lace ribbon 0.50m x 0.15m
- 2x rubber 1cm x 21cm
Cut:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!
Cut the pattern pieces out of your fabrics. to. Lay the fabric with the right side of the fabric facing up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you Front and back You can lay it down in the fraction. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction for all pieces, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long cut with scissors or using chalk . Snip the seam allowance on the fold of the fabric, because this is always a center point. is. Markers define positions of Transfer dart ends , pocket positions, etc. either with chalk or pins .
You will need the following fabric:
- 1x front part in breakage
- 1x back piece in half
- 2x Jersey sleeves
- 2x lace sleeves
- 1x neckline strip
Variant for long sleeve cut:
For the long-sleeved version, you only need:
- 2x long sleeves
Sewing instructions:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked
To sew this shirt you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.
Be sure to use a jersey needle and a stretch stitch. If you're using a domestic sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or a three-step elastic stitch. Afterwards, finish all seam allowances with a zigzag stitch or another suitable stitch to prevent fraying. The colored lines in the pictures, in addition to the written description, show you where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
Sizes 46-50 have a bust dart; please sew it according to the pattern. A simple, straight dart is sewn as follows after accurately transferring the markings: Align notches with notches, draw a line with tailor's chalk to ensure you sew correctly and that the side seam finishes straight. Sew from the widest point to the point, tapering the seam nicely (to prevent the dart from bunching). To avoid having to backstitch at the point, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart's contents upwards.
You start with the shoulder. Place the front piece right sides together with the back piece, sew the shoulder seam, finish the seam allowance together and press it forward.
Next, prepare the neck facing. Place it right sides together, sew the shoulder seam, and press the seam allowance open.
The neck facing is now folded in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and ironed.
In the next step, place the neck facing, right sides together, onto the prepared body, securing it with pins, and then sew the two pieces together. Pay attention to the notches in the pattern. Finally, finish the seam allowances together and press them towards the body.
To shape the point of the neckline, sew a small corner off the front of the neckline strip. This is like a mini dart.
Now you can sew the side seams of the front and back pieces together, right sides facing, and finish the seam allowances together. Then press them to the front.
The hem is folded over twice by 0.7cm and stitched .
Now it's time for the sleeve. You finish the hem of the jersey sleeve.
Then the short sleeve side seams are closed, overlocked and ironed forwards.
Now you can fold over the finished hem of the sleeve and topstitch close to the edge. (You can also iron it beforehand ;)
Next, we'll join the two sleeve layers (outer and inner sleeve). To do this, place the edges of the armhole curve on top of each other and stitch along the inner edge, 0.7 cm from the presser foot's width. (It's best to pin them together securely beforehand to prevent any shifting.)
Next, you can sew the double sleeves to the body and finish the seam allowances. Make sure the notches in the sleeve and armhole align.
Et voilà, your beautiful Wilma shirt is finished!
If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team
Long-sleeved version:
Once you've finished the body part (same process as for the short-sleeve version), you can then start on the long balloon sleeves. First, close the side seams, finish the raw edges, and then press them forward.
The sleeve cap is gathered using gathering stitches. These stitches help to achieve even gathering. Select the longest stitch setting on your sewing machine. Do not backstitch at the beginning and end of the gathering stitches; leave approximately 10 cm of thread. Sew two gathering stitches approximately 1 cm apart, one 0.5 cm and the other 1.5 cm from the cut edge, so that the final seam will run precisely between these two stitches. Pay attention to the pattern markings to determine which areas should be gathered.
Now, carefully pull the two bobbin threads on one side and gather the fabric until you reach the seam width of the armhole. You can now distribute the gathers evenly.
The sleeve can then be sewn into the armhole. Now pull out the gathering threads, finish the seam allowance together, and press it into the sleeve.
In the next step, the sleeve hems are folded over twice by 1.25 cm for the elastic. Iron the hem upwards by 2.5 cm to do this.
In the next step you can stitch the hem, leaving a small opening, preferably in the area of the side seam.
Now you can thread the elastic through the opening into the tunnel hem using a safety pin and then stitch it closed. The length of the elastic is up to you; you can also use the measurements in the pattern as a guide. The opening is then stitched closed.
Your Wilma – long-sleeved version is finished!
If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team