Sewing instructions shorts Agnes
Skirt or shorts? Which team do you prefer? The slim-fitting Agnes shorts get their comfort from the deep pleat in the front. The slim fit in the back is optimized by darts. The shaped waistband is slightly recessed, giving you not only a stylish look but also a comfortable fit. These shorts definitely put your legs in the spotlight.
Length = 37 - 45cm
Agnes was sewn from cotton in this tutorial.
→ To the sewing pattern “Agnes”
Materials needed:
We recommend cotton or linen.
Sizes 34-38
- Outer fabric 0.80 m (140 cm wide)
Sizes 40-44
- Outer fabric 1.00 m (140 cm wide)
Sizes 46-50
- Outer fabric 1.20 m (140 cm wide)
Sizes 34-50
- Seam ripper, 1 x 22 cm long
- Insert 0.70 m (90 cm wide)
- Fixing tape 1.20 m (1 cm wide)
Cut:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!
Cut out the pattern pieces from your fabric. Align the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the outer and inner waistband pieces on the fold. All pattern pieces should be placed with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the ends of the darts. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. It's best to roughly cut out all the outer fabric pieces that will be fully interfacing first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut them out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.
You will need the following fabric:
- 2x front trousers, mirror images
- 2x back pants, mirror images
- 1x belt loop
also with insert:
- 1x outer waistband at the front in the break
- 1x outer collar at the back in the break
- 1x inner waistband at the front in the fold
- 1x inner waistband at the back in the fold
Sewing instructions:
To sew these shorts you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.
To sew the invisible zipper, you'll need the appropriate presser foot for your sewing machine. The colored lines in the pictures, in addition to the written instructions, show you where to sew the seam.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
Additionally, glue a strip of bias tape to the upper edge of the inner waistbands. Finish the raw edges of the trouser pieces at the hem, side seams, crotch seam, and inseam.
Quick tip: Iron the hems over twice by 1.5cm and then unfold them again.
towards the center back. Align the notches in the front of the trousers and secure the pleats close to the waistband edge.
Place the front of the trousers right sides together with the back of the trousers and sew the side and inseams with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowances open.
Now close the crotch seam with a 1cm seam allowance, making sure the inseams meet exactly. Press the seam allowance of the crotch seam open on the straight section. It should point upwards on the curved part.
Join the outer waistbands at the side seam, and join the inner waistbands right sides together. Leave the left side seam open for the zipper.
Prepare the belt loops. To do this, finish one of the long edges of the strap and fold the raw edge inwards by one-third, then fold the finished edge over it. Topstitch the strap close to the edge on both sides and cut four loops of equal length.
Sew the outer waistband to the trousers with a 1cm seam allowance, including the four belt loops. The position of the loops is indicated by the notches in the waistband; make sure they are on the correct side.
Here you can see a photo of the exterior.
Now we come to sewing the concealed zipper into the left side seam up to the top edge of the waistband. First, you need to change the presser foot. Pin the right side of the zipper to the right side of the fabric. The zipper starts at the waistband seam line, meaning there's still a 1cm seam allowance above it for attaching the inner waistband (without the zipper). When sewing, fold the zipper teeth down and topstitch the zipper very close to the edge.
Now pin the second side of the zipper in place, making sure the waistband seam is at the same height.
The zipper should be positioned this way and end at the yellow arrows.
Sew the inner waistband to the outer waistband with a 1cm seam allowance, paying attention to the notches.
At the ends near the zipper, the outer waistband rolls inwards because the inner waistband is slightly shorter.
The inner waistband is slightly shorter and doesn't reach the zipper. Topstitch the upper edge of the waistband close to the edge.
Iron the bottom edge of the inner waistband over by 1 cm and topstitch the waistband from the outside. Make sure to catch the inner waistband neatly in the stitching. Fold the belt loops in by 1 cm and sew them in place along the topstitching line of the upper waistband edge.
Finally, the hem needs to be stitched. Iron it over twice by 1.5 cm if you haven't already done so at the beginning. Stitch the hem securely all the way around.
Your AGNES is finished!
If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.