SEWING INSTRUCTIONS SUMMER BLOUSE “INA”

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Sizes 42-50 have a bust dart, please sew this according to the cut. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.

So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart contents upwards.

First, gather the edges of the front and back pieces according to the markings on the pattern. To do this, sew two auxiliary seams with a long stitch length (3.5-4). You don't lock these, but let the thread stick out at the beginning and end. You knot one end and pull on the other until the stretch is exactly as long as the back yoke. Distribute the curl evenly. You should not work with the two auxiliary seams on silk and delicate fabrics, but only with one auxiliary seam that will not be visible later in the seam allowance. There is also a video for you here on how to curl.

Do the same on the front at the shoulder seams.

Iron the long piping strip, left sides together, folded in half and sew it to the back piece with a stitching foot-width auxiliary seam. You can do the same with the piping strips for the front.

The pattern part for the upper back is called the yoke. The yoke often ends at the shoulder seam, but can also be brought forward slightly. Fits can be straight, slanted or pointed. If you look at a garment from the inside, you will notice that the yoke is doubled, i.e. a yoke is counter-sewn from the inside. So the seams are nicely hidden and clean.

First, pin the yoke pieces to the back piece with pins. The back part is enclosed by the yoke. Place the yoke that will be on the outside right sides together. Place the inner yoke with the right side on the left side of the back piece.

The clip in the middle back allows you to easily place all the pattern pieces on top of each other. Starting from the center back, pin left and right to the end of the seam.

These three layers are now sewn together with a 1cm seam allowance, so the first seam is covered.

You fold the outer yoke up and iron the seam nicely. Then it's time to connect the yoke to the front in the shoulder area. First, sew only the outer yoke together with the respective front pieces, right sides together, and press the seam allowances to the back.

The inner yoke is folded to the shoulder seam. Then you crawl from the open neck hole into the shoulder seam and grab the 3 seam allowances. You sew these three layers together. The outer yoke, right to right, is on the front piece and the inner yoke, right to left, is on the front piece.

Then you can simply pull out the contents and your yoke is beautifully finished. The seam allowances point towards the back, i.e. into the yoke, and lie neatly between the inside and outside yoke.

Iron the whole thing flat, being careful not to flatten the curl.

To continue working, we pinned the layers at the neck and armholes together with a large stitch. So nothing shifts anymore.

Continue with the facing for the neckline, where you iron 1cm around the outer edge.

Place the facing, right sides together, on the front neckline and sew it in place.

For lace, seam allowances are cut with scissors. The seam allowances lay nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a tip that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side. Turn the facing inside out, left sides together, and pin it with pins for further processing.

Finally, you stitch the facing close to the edge onto the outer fabric.

We continue with the collar. Place both collar pieces on top of each other, right sides together, and sew them together. Then cut away some of the seam allowances and clip them into the curve.

Turn the collar inside out and press the seam allowance of the inner collar by 1cm.

Next, sew the open edge of the outer collar to the neck hole with 1cm, right sides together. Pay attention to the clips in the cut.

Now put the collars on top of each other and stitch the inner one with a seam on the outside.

Overcast the side seams individually and sew them together at 1.5 cm to the clip. Then double iron the hem in and around and stitch it close to the edge.

Finally, sew the armhole panels together, right sides together, in a round, iron the seam allowances apart and iron them, left sides together, in a fold. Sew the armhole panels to the armholes, right sides together. Pay attention to the clips in the cut. Finish the seam allowances together and press them inwards.

Your INA is ready!

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.