Sewing instructions summer dress Maren

Who doesn't love them, the special summer dresses? The pattern for the Maren dress belongs in the upper class, both in terms of sewing experience and the unusual look and lines of the cut. The deep neckline and the accentuated underbust line underline the very feminine and playful character of this women's dress. The slightly flared hem swings with every step and the open slit in the center front leaves enough legroom. Another nice detail are the ribbons on the hem of the sleeves, which can be playfully tied into a bow, or simply knotted and left hanging loosely.

Length at center back = 106 - 112 cm

In these instructions, Maren was sewn from a viscose woven fabric.

→ To the pattern "Maren"

Required material:

We recommend a flowing viscose, silk or polyester satin, always opaque because the dress is unlined.

Sizes 34-40

• Outer fabric 1.70 m 140 cm wide

Sizes 42-50

• Outer fabric 2.20 m 140 cm wide

Sizes 34-50

• Insert 0.40 m 90 cm wide
• Fixing tape 12 mm 1.0 m
• Seam zipper 1 x 60 cm long

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay the saddle front on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

• 2x front part-top in opposite directions
• 1x saddle in front in the fracture
• 2x back part above in opposite directions
• 2x saddle-rear opposite
• 2x sleeves-rear opposite
• 2x sleeves in front in opposite directions
• 8x sleeve bands, 2 of each of the same kind
• 2x skirt-front opposite
• 2x skirt-rear opposite

also with insert:

• 2x neckline slip-back opposite
• 2x excerpt slip-front opposite

also with band:

• 2x slip-back
• 2x slip front
• 2x zip position skirt-back

Sewing instructions:

To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to overcast the raw edges.

If you use a seam zipper, you also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

We start by sewing the back darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart content towards the center back.

Neat the bottom raw edges of the front and back facings.

Sew the back facings to the two back pieces, right sides together. Coming to the center back, leave 1-2cm of the seam open, this is for later processing of the zipper.

Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side. Iron the receipts inside out, wrong sides together.

Now take the rear saddles and sew them right sides together to the respective back parts. Neat the seam allowances together and press the seam allowances down. Finally, clean up the center back.

Place the front facings on the front pieces, right sides together, and stitch them in place.

Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side. Iron the receipts inside out, wrong sides together.

Completely neaten the center back of the two back skirt sections.

Then close the center back right sides together from the hem up to the marking of the end of the zipper and press open the seam allowances.

Neat the hem of the back skirt and iron it according to the pattern.

Also neaten the center front up to the beginning of the slit of the front skirt parts and then the hems one by one.

Sew the center front right sides together and end at the marking on the cut, the beginning of the slit. Press the seam allowances apart until then.

Now you can iron the hems and slit. Iron the slit 2x 1cm in and around and the hem according to the pattern.

Here's a close-up of the pressed-in front vent and hem.

There is a gather in the back skirt, process both sides. Then place the prepared bodice with the saddle right sides together on the ruffled skirt, sew and overcast the seam allowances. Then iron the seam allowances upwards.

Here is a video on how best to curl.

Overcast the side and shoulder seams of the back piece. Make sure to unfold the facings of the back pieces when overcasting.

The zipper is concealed. Sew it to the open center back.

Sew the back facings right sides together to the seam allowance of the zipper and tuck them back inside.

The front saddle gets an auxiliary seam to secure the route, since the thread run is diagonal and the woven fabric stretches faster there. You can prevent this with a large-stitch auxiliary seam.

The front parts and front skirt parts also have ruffles. Work the ruffles according to the cut. Then sew the front parts right sides together to the front saddle and neaten the seam allowances. Iron these down.

Then sew the front yoke to the front skirt, right sides together, overcast the seam allowances and iron them up.

Overcast the side and shoulder seams of the front piece. Make sure to open the facings of the front pieces when overcasting.

Place the prepared back piece on the prepared front piece and topstitch the side and shoulder seams. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern and also open the evidence for a continuous shoulder seam. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Now you can topstitch the hem with the prepared slit all around the edge.

Now come to the tapes. Stitch them right sides together and cut the corners. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming. Press open the seam allowances with a stick as a tool.

Tumble all four ribbons right side out.

Neaten the upper arm seam of the sleeve cuts up to the beginning of the slit.

Then place the front sleeve on the back sleeve, right sides facing, and stitch through the upper arm seam. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Neaten the inner arm seam and hems of both sleeves. Double iron the slit in and around and the hem according to the pattern.

Place two ribbons under the ironed slit on the right and left and...

... process the slit just under the edge.

Then fold the ribbons outwards and stitch them again just under the edge.

Here you can see a detailed view of the processed tapes.

Sew the inner arm seam of the sleeves right sides together and iron open the seam allowances.

Stitch through the pressed hem.

Sew the sleeves right into the armhole and neaten the seam allowances. Pay attention to the snaps when sewing.

Secure the slip at the seam allowances of the shoulder seams.

Your MAREN is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.