Sewing instructions for a top in Cuxhaven

Level : Intermediate - for experienced players
 
In this tutorial, the Cuxhaven dress was sewn from a viscose fabric with elastane.

Materials needed:

We recommend a jersey fabric for the top, but a viscose fabric with elastane also works.

Sizes 34-50	Outer fabric	1.00 m	140 cm wide
Elastic band 0.5cm wide	75-110m

Cut:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay out the back piece, collar stand, undercollar, and upper collar on the fold. All pattern pieces should be laid with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the ends of the darts. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut out all outer fabric pieces that will be fully interfaced first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut them out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need the following fabric:

• 2x back section in fracture (inner and outer back section)
• 2x front part in fracture (inner and outer front part)
  

Sewing instructions:

To sew this top you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.

The colored lines in the pictures show you, in addition to the description, where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

On the inner and outer top part, the side seams are gathered from the notch to the top edge.

To do this, you'll work so-called gathering threads into the seam. These are a tool to achieve an even gather. Select the longest stitch setting on your sewing machine. Do not backstitch at the beginning and end of the gathering stitches; instead, leave approximately 10 cm of thread. Sew two gathering stitches about 1 cm apart, positioned 0.5 cm and 1.5 cm from the cut edge, so that the final joining seam will run precisely between the two gathering stitches.

Carefully pull the two lower threads on one side and gather the fabric until you reach the length of the back piece. Now you can distribute the gathers evenly. Do this on both the inner and outer bodice pieces.

Now place the outer front piece right sides together with the outer back piece and sew the side seams. Do the same with the inner front and back pieces. Press the seam allowances to the back. Now you have two identical tops.

Now take the inner top. Stretch the elastic band to the seam allowance on the front side and stitch it in place. Important: Do not stitch the already sewn side seam; the elastic should only be attached to the seam allowance.

Now place the pieces right sides together and pin the top edge together.

Close the seam all the way around.

Sew the elastic bands together, overlapping the ends by 1 cm, and sew them together. Stretch the elastic bands along the seam and secure them with pins. Ensure the elastic is evenly distributed. Topstitch the band next to the seam on the seam allowance.

Pull the inner and outer pieces apart. Fold the seam allowance towards the elastic band/side seam and topstitch it 0.7 cm wide all around.

The elastic is now located at the top edge between the outer fabric and the seam allowance.

If you turn the piece outwards now, the quilting line will be on the inside of the top edge.

The side seams are both facing backward and on top of each other. Now reach inward and

Pin the seam allowance together at one or two points and pull the seam outwards.

Stretch the seam with the elastic to the length of the other seam and stitch the seams together. Do the same with the other side seam.

The side seams are now evenly finished inside and out, only the hem is missing :))

Stitch the hem edges together so that nothing can slip during the next steps.

Iron the hem 1.5cm inwards....

and topstitch the hem. Phew, the top looks easier than it is :)) but it's done now.

Your Cuxhaven is complete!

If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible.

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.