SEWING INSTRUCTIONS TUNIC “MOANA”

With the Moana tunic pattern you can sew three different models: 1. the blouse with the short length, 2. the tunic with the medium length and 3. the dress in the long version. The different options are shown in the average, you just have to decide which one you prefer, of course you can also choose all three variants. Moana is a summery and slightly playful model; the hem is flared, which creates a casual and loose fit around the body. The short sleeves are slightly puffed and the bust dart ensures the right fit despite being comfortable and casual. The V-neckline and the tie that comes out of the back neck hole are the special details that make Moana special. You can simply leave the ribbon hanging or tie it playfully into a bow.

→ To the pattern “Moana”

Center back lengths:

• Blouse 60 – 68 cm
• Tunic = 73 – 81 cm
• Dress = 92 – 100 cm

In these instructions, Moana was sewn from viscose.

Required material:

We recommend a soft, flowing viscose , silk or polyester satin , a jersey also works, so you may want to sew a size smaller.

Blouse:

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	1.15m	140cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	1.60 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	inlay	0.35m	90cm wide

Tunic:

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	1.50 m	140cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	1.80 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	inlay	0.35m	90cm wide

A dress:

Sizes 34-50	Outer fabric	2.10 m	140cm wide
	inlay	0.35m	90cm wide

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvages parallel to the center so that you can place the front piece, back piece, front facing and back facing in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

What you need from fabric:

• 1x back part in the break
• 1x front part in the break
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions
• 2x binding tape
• 2x arm hem band

also with insert:

• 1x receipt at the front in the break
• 1x receipt at the back of the break

Sewing instructions:

To sew this tunic you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the black lines on the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

We start by sewing the bust darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the dart contents upwards.

The ties for the front are placed, right to right, in a fold and twisted along the long and short rectangular sections. For corners, seam allowances are shortened and cut off with scissors. This means that the corners don't become too thick when turned and the seam allowances can be laid nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.

Then turn the two ribbons with the help of a long stick and iron them flat. For your information: the break in the band will later point towards the center front.

We continue with the evidence. We start with the facing at the front and neaten up the lower cut edge.

The overcast seam is ironed to the inside…

... and just stitched edge.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the ironed seam allowance on the front facing.

The prepared front facing is placed, right sides together, on the neckline of the front piece and stitched in place with 1cm.

For lace, seam allowances are cut with scissors. This means that the seam allowance spreads apart when turned and the seam allowance can be laid nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a tip that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting. The curve must also be clipped in so that the receipt can collapse nicely inwards.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat as far as you can get them. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

The front and back pieces are placed on top of each other, right sides together, and the shoulders are closed. Meanwhile, position your front ties so that the fold points towards the center front, meaning they fall straight down, and sew them in place.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processing of the right shoulder seam.

We continue with the facing at the back and neaten the lower cut edge.

The overcast seam is ironed inside out, left sides together…

... and just stitched edge.

Then place the prepared back facing, right sides together, on your back neckline and sew it in place. The curve must be snapped in so that the receipt can fold inwards nicely.

The shoulder seams are serged together and pressed to the back.

The seam allowances are first ironed apart to make it easier to tuck the facing inwards and then you tuck the back neckline.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processing of the right shoulder seam.

Now you can secure the neckline all around with a stitch the width of a quilting foot.

The side seams are closed by placing the front and back pieces together, right sides together, and stitching them together with 1.5cm. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

Then finish the hem of your tunic...

... iron it 2cm and stitch it in place.

The folds within the armhole are placed as described in the pattern and secured with an auxiliary seam.

Do the same with the folds in the hem of the sleeve.

The sleeve can now be placed, right sides together, and sewn together. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

Place the diagonally cut arm hem bands on top of each other, right sides together, and sew them together. The seam allowances are ironed apart.

The hem band is placed on the sleeve, right sides together, and sewn in place at 0.7cm.

The seam allowance is then ironed down.

The prepared sleeve is now processed further on your sewing machine. To do this, fold the band in and out twice while sewing and stitch the arm hem band through from the right edge. Info: Folding it in on the sewing machine allows you to adjust it as if you had ironed the band beforehand.

Finally, sew your prepared sleeves, right sides together, into the armhole and finish the seam allowances together. Pay attention to the clips in the cut (double clips means behind).

Your MOANA is ready !

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.