Sewing instructions tunic blouse Jenny

Length at the center back = 68 – 74 cm

Jenny was sewn from a viscose fabric in this tutorial.

→ To the “Jenny” pattern

Required materials:

We recommend soft cotton, linen or silk.

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	1.50 m	140 cm wide
	insert	0.50 m	90 cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	1.90 m	140 cm wide
	insert	0.60 m	90 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are including - 1cm wide or as marked

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the front, back, yoke, fly facing, upper collar, under collar, and collar stands on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm slit with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing. After you have secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and fixing cut pieces.

You will need fabric:

• 1x front part in the break
• 1x back part in the fracture
• 2x upper sleeves opposite
• 2x undersleeves opposite
• 2x pass in the fraction

also with insert:

• 2x cuff
• 1x slotted slip in the fracture
• 1x upper collar in the fold
• 1x undercollar in the fold
• 2x collar stay in the fold

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are including - 1cm wide or as marked

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Make sure the front piece is cut along the fold and the small piece marked here by the dashed yellow line is cut out. This will be the slit and will later be sewn together with the facing. We also marked the fold line with a pin.

You turn the neckline edge with a facing. This is first ironed over 1cm along the outer raw edges. The prepared facing is placed, right sides together, against the front piece and stitched in place with a 1cm seam allowance. For points, trim the seam allowances with scissors. The seam allowances lay flat. It's especially important that the seam is not cut. Therefore, we recommend sewing just before the point and away from it with a shorter stitch length. This guarantees a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning the facing inside out, wrong side out, you should iron the neckline into shape a little before stitching it all the way around to the front piece, close to the edge.

We continue with sewing the bust darts. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, from the widest point to the point, tapering nicely (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch and that the side seam ends nicely and straight. To avoid having to backstitch at the point, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart's contents upwards.

The yoke is the pattern piece for the upper back. If you look at a garment from the inside, you'll notice that the yoke is doubled, meaning there's also a yoke sewn against it on the inside. This way, the seams are neatly hidden and clean.

First, pin the yoke pieces to the back piece. The back piece is enclosed by the yokes. Place the yoke, which will be on the outside, right sides together. Place the inner yoke, right side facing, on the left side of the back piece.

The notch in the center back allows you to neatly place all the pattern pieces together. Starting at the center back, pin left and right until the seam ends.

These three layers are now sewn together with a 1cm seam allowance, so that the first seam is hidden.

Fold both yokes upward and iron the seam neatly. A little tip: We stitched the yokes at a distance of the stitching foot from the seam.

Now it's time to join the yoke to the front piece in the shoulder area. This method is also called the "burrito method . "

First, sew the top yoke to the respective front piece, right sides together. Once you've done this with both shoulders, roll the back piece up to the yoke seam.

In the picture, you can see that the inner yoke is facing down. Do the same with the front pieces, then fold the top shoulder edge onto the bottom shoulder edge. Sew these three layers together.

Then you can simply pull out the contents and your yoke is beautifully finished. We like to do this by reaching between the seams of the armhole, as the neckline tends to stretch and could become distorted. However, your yoke may be too narrow at this point. In this case, you will have to turn the package through the neckline. It is best to sew a support seam at the very beginning of the yoke pieces at the neckline. To do this, simply sew along the edge with a large stitch and the width of your quilting foot. This protects the fabric from distorting when turning, which can happen very quickly in places where the grain is sometimes at an angle. The seam allowances point upwards, i.e. into the yoke, and lie neatly between the inner and outer yoke.

Your JENNY is ready!

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your pattern team