Nähanleitung Tunikabluse Jenny

Sewing instructions tunic blouse Jenny

For the Jenny blouse pattern, we were inspired by the folklore fashion of the 70s. The result is a versatile tunic blouse that can be worn casually over trousers and also looks great with a narrow skirt. As is so often the case, we have dispensed with a complicated button placket, instead there is a plunging neckline that, together with the open collar, conjures up a beautiful décolleté.

Length at center back = 68-74cm

Jenny was sewn from a viscose fabric in these instructions.

→ To the pattern “Jenny”

Required material:

We recommend a soft cotton, linen or silk.

Sizes 34-42 outer fabric 1.50 m 140cm wide
inlay 0.50 m 90 cm wide
Sizes 44-50 outer fabric 1.90 m 140cm wide
inlay 0.60 m 90 cm wide


Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can fold the front, back, yoke, fly facing, upper collar, lower collar and collar bands in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

  • 1x front part in break
  • 1x back part in break
  • 2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
  • 2x lower sleeves in opposite directions
  • 2x pass in break

also with insert:

  • 2x cuff
  • 1x slit slip in the break
  • 1x upper collar in break
  • 1x undercollar in break
  • 2x collar stand in break

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Make sure the front piece is cut at the fold and the small piece, marked here by the yellow dashed line, is cut out. This is the slot and will be overturned later with the slip. In addition, we marked the mark in the break with a pin.

You overturn the cut-out edge with a slip. This is first ironed around the outer cut edges 1cm. The prepared slip is placed on the front part, right sides together, and stitched with 1 cm. For lace, seam allowances are cut in with scissors. The seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning the facing inside out, wrong sides together, you should iron the neckline into shape before you stitch it all around with a narrow edge onto the front piece.

We continue with the sewing of the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight. So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart content upwards.

The pattern piece for the upper back is called the yoke. If you look at a piece of clothing from the inside, you will see that the yoke is doubled, i.e. a yoke is counter-sewn from the inside as well. The seams are so nicely hidden and are clean.

First you pin the yoke parts to the back part with pins. The back part is enclosed by the yokes. Place the yoke, which will be on the outside, right sides together. Place the inner yoke with the right side on the left side of the back piece.

The clip in the center back allows you to stack all pattern pieces well. Starting from the center back, use pins to stick left and right to the end of the seam.

These three layers are now sewn together with a 1cm seam allowance, so that the first seam is covered.

You fold both yokes up and iron the seam nicely. A little tip: We stitched the yokes a foot's width from the seam.

Now it's time to connect the yoke to the front piece in the shoulder area. This method is also called the “burrito method” .

First sew only the upper yoke together with the respective front piece, right sides together. Once you've done this with both shoulders, next roll up the back piece up to the yoke seam.

In the picture you can see that the inner yoke is down. Do the same with the front pieces, then fold the upper shoulder edge onto the lower shoulder edge. Sew these three layers together.

Then you can simply pull out the contents and your yoke is beautifully finished. We like to reach between the seams of the armholes, because the neckline tends to stretch and could become distorted. Your yoke may be too narrow at this point. In this case you have to turn the package through the neckline. It is best if you sew a support seam at the neckline at the very beginning of the yokes. To do this, simply sew along the edge with a large stitch, the width of your stitching foot. This protects the fabric from puckering when turning, which can happen very quickly in places where the grain runs at an angle. The seam allowances point upwards, i.e. into the yoke, and lie neatly between the inside and outside yokes.

Iron the whole thing flat.

To continue working, we stapled the layers together at the neckline and armholes with a large stitch. So nothing moves anymore.

You neaten the raw edges of the side seams individually so that the slit in the lower part of the blouse can be processed more easily. You close the side seams according to the pattern, right sides together, with a 1.5 cm seam allowance up to the upper marking of the slit. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut and note that the back part is longer due to the cut. Iron the seam allowances apart.

The slit can now be stitched all the way around and your side seam slit is finished.

The upper and lower collars are folded together. Place both collars on top of each other, right sides together, and stitch all the way around. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that will not fray after trimming.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out. Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outside edges, this will flatten them nicely and secure them.

The outer web is ironed around 1cm at the lower cutting edge. This is then individually stitched onto the prepared collar: outer web, right sides together, on the lower collar.

Place the other bridge piece, right sides together, on top of the two collar pieces against the outer bridge. Sew 1cm from the bottom edge over the curve (a little tip: use a shorter stitch length to get around the curve better) to the other end. Shorten the seam allowance at the curve to about 2-3mm. Turn the sewn right side out and iron the bridge parts nice and flat.

The collar is sewn inside out so that it later looks clean on the inside. To do this, the inner bridge is stitched to the neckline and the seam allowance is turned up. The previously prepared centimeter on the outer web is stitched through from the outside, making sure to land in the shadow of the seam on the inside.

The left upper sleeve is sewn together with the left lower sleeve, right sides together, and then the seam allowances are neatened together. Iron the seam allowance towards the back.

The inner arm seam is also sewn together and the seam allowances neatened together. Press the seam allowances backwards.

The cuff also has a small slit. To do this, you have to place the fold of the cuff, right sides together, and close the seam with 1cm up to your notch. Then iron the seam allowances apart.

Now the inner seam of the cuff is closed with 1cm. Here, too, the seam allowances are ironed out so that they can be stacked better when turning.

This is what your finished cuff with a slit will look like.

Now you can finish your sleeve by sewing the cuff seam to seam, right sides together, to the sleeve. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed upwards.

The sleeves are sewn into your new blouse. Orientate yourself on the snaps in the cut. The seam allowances are neatened together.

The hem is turned in and out twice, ironed and topstitched.

Your JENNY is ready!

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.

Retour au blog