SEWING INSTRUCTIONS WINTER COAT “JUSTINA”

Sewing a coat is usually rather demanding, but not our Justina coat pattern . The details, such as the stand-up collar and seam pockets in the cross-dividing seams, are not difficult to process. The overcut shoulders, the slight O-shape and the mix of fabrics result in a casual and comfortable fit.

Length at center back = 88 – 90 cm

→ To the pattern “Justina”

In this pattern, Justina was sewn from a quilted fabric and the sleeves from corduroy fabric.

Required material:

We recommend padded outdoor fabric with a coarse knit or soft woolen fabric.

Size 34-42	Outer fabric	1.40 m	140cm wide
Size 44-50	Outer fabric	1.60 m	140cm wide
Size 34-42	feed	1.60 m	140cm wide
Size 44-50	feed	2.10 m	140cm wide
Size 34-50	Knit	1.10 m	140cm wide
Size 34-50	inlay	1.10 m	90cm wide
Size 34-50	Snaps	4	24mm diameter

Cutting:

Make sure to cut the quilting fabric correctly. The stitching should flow into one another at the dividing seams. Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the collar, back and facing at the back in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

You need (quilted) fabric:

• 1x back part in the break
• 1x collar in the break
• 2x pocket bags in opposite directions
• 2x front part-top opposite
• 2x front part middle opposite
• 2x front part-bottom opposite

You need (knitted) fabric:

• 2x sleeves opposite
• 2x piping at the bottom
• 2x piping at the top

also with insert:

• 1x collar in the break
• 1x receipt at the back in the break
• 2x receipt front opposite

You need from food:

• 1x spine in break
• 2x front part opposite
• 2x sleeves opposite
• 2x pocket bags in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

Before processing, you must stitch the cut quilting material all around with a seam the width of a quilting foot and thereby secure the individual layers of fabric. To sew this coat you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

First, take the lining and stitch the back fold together in the middle back, right sides together. To do this, sew 5cm downwards at the neck hole and 5cm upwards at the bottom clip.

Then iron the movement fold in the back towards the left side of your body.

We continue with sewing off the bust darts on the front lining parts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the dart contents upwards.

Now place the lining front pieces and the lining back piece on top of each other, right sides together, and close both the shoulder and side seams. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern and iron them backwards.

You also sew the sleeves together, right sides together. The left sleeve is left approx. 10cm open so that the coat can be turned around later. Pay attention to the seam allowance in the cut and then iron them apart.

Now place the sleeve, right sides together, into the prepared lining piece and sew everything together.

The overcut shoulders create this square sleeve shape. For corners, seam allowances are cut with scissors. The seam allowance can spread nicely when turning and doesn't get in the way. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.

Now come to the piping. The two upper piping are placed inside out, left side together, and stitched through with an auxiliary seam at the width of a quilting foot to secure it.

Place a piping, right sides together, on the top quilted front piece and sew them together. Note that the piping wrap is at the top.

Now place the middle front piece, right sides together, on the piping and stitch everything together.

Place the quilted pocket bag, right sides together, on the middle front piece and sew both together.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat.

Sew the bottom piping to the edge of the bottom front piece, just like you did on the top dividing seam. You then place this, right sides together, on the middle front piece and stitch both together. Make sure you only stitch up to the markings, otherwise you will sew the pocket opening closed.

Sew the lining pocket bag, right sides together, to the lower front piece. To do this, push the quilted bag slightly out of the way.

You also stitch the lining pocket bag flat onto the seam allowances.

Now place both pocket bags on top of each other, right sides together, and use them to stitch the pocket all around.

The front pieces are therefore well prepared and you can place them both, right sides together, on the back piece and close both the side and shoulder seams. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern. The seam allowances are always unfolded in the following steps because the quilted fabric cannot be ironed.

The sleeves are made of knitted fabric and we have provided them with an extra fleece because the material is quite thin or normal-thick and the fleece warms the sleeves extra. Close the inner arm seam of both sleeves, paying attention to the seam allowances in the pattern. The seam allowances are unfolded or ironed (depending on whether the fabric can be ironed).

The hem of the sleeve is secured with a fixation on the seam allowances. The hem is then tacked all around with a hex stitch.

Now you also sew the sleeves, right sides together, into your almost finished coat.

A special detail on our Justina is the high stand-up collar. Here I'll show you the easiest way to process it. Place both cuts, the quilted collar and the knitted collar, on top of each other, right sides together and stitch through the top edge of the collar.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat as far as you can get them. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the inner collar, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the knitted collar is stitched along the edge onto the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Now turn both collars inside out, place the seam allowances towards the knitted fabric and sew the short sections together on the outside. Trim the seam allowances of the corners of the collar a little to make it easier to turn later.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processing of the collar.

You can also prepare the facings by sewing the back facing together with the front facings, right sides together, and ironing the seam allowances apart.

Now stitch this, right sides together, to the front edge of the front piece…

... at the hem you leave 1cm seam allowance on the facing for later processing with the lining.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat as far as you can get them. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Now you process the upper corners of the over and under flap in the front part. Place the seam allowances towards the facing and stitch the facing and front piece together, right sides together, up to the snap. Trim the corner seam allowances.

Sew the outer collar (quilted fabric) to the back piece, right sides together,…

... and sew the inner collar (knitted fabric), right sides together, onto your prepared facing. The seam allowances are cut at the corners.

Iron or unfold the seam allowances of the inner and outer collars…

... so that you can then place the collar on top of each other, inside out, and sew the seam allowances together with a quilting foot width.

Fold the hem of your jacket up using the clips and secure it to the seam allowances of the side seams with an auxiliary seam. We also recommend basting your hem all around with a hex stitch. Make sure to leave 1.5cm seam allowance for the lining.

For your information: We have prepared a video in which Ellen explains step by step how best to insert the lining into a jacket:

Now stitch your prepared lining, right sides together, all around your facing.

The knitted sleeves are now also sewn together with the lining sleeve, right sides together.

Secure the armpit point on the seam allowances of both fabrics.

This is what the processed lining sleeve looks like turned inside out.

Now all you have to do is close the hem of your new coat. Make sure you leave at least 10cm open in the middle back. After turning your jacket right side out through this opening, close your hem completely through the opening in the left sleeve. You also have to sew the edge of this opening closed. The turned jacket is pulled into shape and the seam allowances of the hem are ironed upwards.

The last step is to put your snaps in the right positions on the jacket and sew them into place.

Your JUSTINA is ready !

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.