Sewing instructions for the Helene zip-up shirt

Helene is an ideal pattern for beginners. The casual shirt has a close-fitting top and tapers into an A-line hem, ending in side ruffles. A flowing jersey fabric is recommended for the T-shirt .

Length in the center back = 64 – 70 cm

→ To the “Helene” pattern

In this tutorial, Helene was sewn from a soft jersey.

Required materials:

We recommend a flowing jersey or stretch lace.

Sizes 34-44	jersey	1.70 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 46-50	jersey	2.10 m	140 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the front and back pieces on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long snip with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Note that bust darts are required from size 42 onwards. Notch the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You will need fabric:

• 1x front part in the break
• 1x back part in the fracture
• 1x neck strip
• 2x sleeves opposite

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

To sew this shirt you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and a stretchy stitch. This means that if you're using a home sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part stretch stitch. Then, finish all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another suitable stitch to prevent fraying. The colored lines in the images, in addition to the description, show you where to sew or glue a seam.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

We start by sewing the bust darts starting with size 42. If you're working with a size smaller than 42, you can skip these two steps. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn and closed on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, from the widest point to the tip, tapering nicely (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to avoid over-stitching and ensure the side seam is nice and straight.
To avoid having to lock the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the dart contents upwards.

To prepare the Helene, the hem and straight side seam of the front and back pieces are ironed twice, each 0.7 cm.

Next, place the front and back pieces, right sides together, and sew them together. The seam allowances are neatened together and pressed to the back.

The shoulders are also sewn together, right sides together, and finished. Press the seam allowances to the back.

Before closing the underarm seam of the sleeve, we recommend pressing the hem according to the markings in the pattern. Then, sew the sleeve together, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances. Press the seam allowances back here as well.

Now you can neaten the hem of the sleeve…

… lay in a pagination and stitch through.

The finished sleeve is sewn into the armhole. Note that the V-notch in the sleeve marks the front. This means: V-notch sleeve to V-notch front. The seam allowances of the sleeve seam are neatened together and pressed into the sleeve.

The previously prepared hem with the tips is stitched close to the edge.

Prepare the neck strip by ironing the fold. Then open the fold, place the strip right sides together, sew it together, and close it. Press the seam allowances apart, and place the neck strip inside the previously ironed fold, wrong sides together.

To secure the track, since it is jersey, the neck strip is provided with an auxiliary seam and can then no longer expand too much.

Sew the neck strip, right sides together, to the finished body piece. The seam of the strip should meet the right shoulder seam. The seam allowances are neatened together and pressed down.

To ensure that it stays at the bottom, the seam allowance is stitched flat with a seam close to the edge.

Your HELENE is ready ! 

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your pattern team