SEWING INSTRUCTIONS ZIPFELSHIRT “HELENE”

Helene is an ideal sewing pattern for beginners. The casual shirt sits close to the figure in the upper part and merges into an A-shape towards the hem, which ends in side corners. A flowing jersey should be used for the T-shirt .

Length at center back = 64 – 70 cm

→ To the pattern “Helene”

In these instructions, Helene was sewn from a soft jersey.

Required material:

We recommend a flowing jersey or elastic lace.

Sizes 34-44	jersey	1.70 m	140cm wide
Sizes 46-50	jersey	2.10 m	140cm wide

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the front and back pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts, note that bust darts must be used from size 42. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

What you need from fabric:

• 1x front part in the break
• 1x back part in the break
• 1x neck strip
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew this shirt you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretchy stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a household sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch Neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

We start sewing the bust darts from size 42. If you are sewing a size smaller than 42, you can skip the two steps. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the dart contents upwards.

To prepare the Helene, the hem and straight side seam of the front and back pieces are ironed twice with 0.7 cm each.

The front and back pieces are then placed on top of each other, right sides together, and sewn together. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

The shoulders are also sewn together and finished, right sides together. Iron the seam allowances backwards.

Before you close the underarm seam of the sleeve, we recommend that you iron the hem according to the marking in the pattern. The sleeve is then sewn together, right sides together, and the seam allowances are finished together. Here too, iron the seam allowances towards the back.

Now you can finish the hem of the sleeve...

... lay in a fold and stitch through.

The finished sleeve is sewn into the armhole. Note that the V-clip is marked in the front of the sleeve, which means V-clip sleeve on V-clip front. The seam allowances of the sleeve seam are neatened together and ironed into the sleeve.

The previously prepared hem with the corners is stitched straight through.

The neck strip is prepared for ironing by ironing the wrap. Then the wrap is opened, the strip is placed right sides together, sewn together and closed. The seam allowances are ironed apart and the neck strip is placed inside the previously ironed fold, left sides together.

To secure the stretch, as it is jersey, the neck strip is provided with an auxiliary seam and can then no longer stretch too much.

Sew the neck strip, right sides together, to the finished body piece. The seam of the strip meets the right shoulder seam. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed down.

To ensure that it stays down, the seam allowance is stitched flat with a seam close to the edge.

Your HELENE is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.