Passe pulled through

The yoke is the pattern piece for the upper back. The back piece can be sewn on with pleats or gathers. The yoke often ends at the shoulder seam, but can also be slightly extended forward.

Yokes can be straight, bias, or pointed. If you look at a garment from the inside, you'll notice that the yoke is doubled, meaning a yoke is sewn against it from the inside. This way, the seams are neatly concealed and clean.

First, pin the yoke pieces to the back piece. The back piece is enclosed by the yokes. Place the yoke, which will be on the outside, right sides together. Place the inner yoke, right side facing, on the wrong side of the back piece.

The notch in the center back allows you to neatly place all the pattern pieces together. Starting at the center back, pin left and right until the seam ends.

These three layers are now sewn together with a 1cm seam allowance, so that the first seam is hidden.

Fold the outer yoke upward and iron the seam. Next, join the yoke to the front piece in the shoulder area. First, sew the outer yoke to the respective front pieces, right sides together, and press the seam allowances to the back.

Here we've photographed the other side for your convenience. The inner yoke is visibly folded down.

Fold the inner yoke toward the shoulder seam. Then, crawl from the open neckline into the shoulder seam and grab the three seam allowances. Sew these three layers together. Place the outer yoke right sides together on the front piece, and the inner yoke right sides together on the front piece.

Then you can simply pull out the contents, and your yoke is beautifully finished. The seam allowances face the back, into the yoke, and sit neatly between the inner and outer yokes.

Iron the whole thing flat, making sure you don't iron the box pleat flat.

To continue working, we basted the layers together at the neckline and armholes with a large stitch. This prevents any shifting.

A little tip: We stitched the yokes close to the edge or the width of the stitching foot away from the seam.

Have lots of fun with it!

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