The corsage Clara has a great fit thanks to its Viennese seams and can be worn with or without straps. Corset rods are worked into the rear dividing seams, which provide the right support. Here I show you a small suggestion for change.
In order to get a little insight and some understanding, we have prepared a video for you here.
In these instructions, Clara was sewn from cotton and pleated fabric.
→ To the pattern “Corsage Clara”
Required material:
We recommend a fabric with some firmness, such as taffeta, silk or denim.
| Sizes 34-50 | outer fabric | 0.70 m | 140cm wide |
| Sizes 34-50 | lining | 0.70 m | 140cm wide |
| Sizes 34-50 | inlay | 1.60 m | 90 cm wide |
| Sizes 34-36 | tear tlb. | 1 piece | 27cm long |
| size 38 | tear tlb. | 1 piece | 28cm long |
| size 40 | tear tlb. | 1 piece | 29 cm long |
| Sizes 42-44 | tear tlb. | 1 piece | 30cm long |
| Sizes 46-48 | tear tlb. | 1 piece | 31cm long |
| size 50 | tear tlb. | 1 piece | 32cm long |
| Sizes 34-36 | boning | 2 pieces | 25cm long |
| size 38 | boning | 2 pieces | 26cm long |
| Size 40-42 | boning | 2 pieces | 27cm long |
| Size 44-46 | boning | 2 pieces | 28cm long |
| Size 48-50 | boning | 2 pieces | 29 cm long |
| Sizes 34-38 | pleated | 0.80 m | 140cm wide |
| Sizes 40-42 | pleated | 0.90 m | 140cm wide |
| Sizes 44-46 | pleated | 1.00 m | 140cm wide |
| Sizes 48-50 | pleated | 1.15m | 140cm wide |
Cut change:
In order to be able to cut your pattern pieces, you have to do a few steps beforehand. To get a perfect fit, you can sew a sample piece out of nettle to see if your waist is where you marked it and if the waist measurement is correct for you. When you try on the nettle, you can simply mark out your stretches and transfer them to your pattern. When you try on the nettle, you can simply mark out your stretches and transfer them to your pattern. 
I'm very tall (1.78cm) so my waist position is slightly lower than on the original pattern. I tucked away the extra width in the waist circumference at the dividing seams and transferred it to the pattern. You can also keep the default waist position here. To do this, you draw the waist line in the front, side and back parts by connecting the snaps on all pattern parts. 
Now mark your seam allowances of 1cm on your new raw edges and cut off the excess of the waist circumference.
You now transfer the correction you have made to your lining pattern.
cutting:
From the outer fabric and lining you need:
- 1x front part in break
- 2x side part in front of the same
- 2x side part at the back in opposite directions
- 2x back piece in opposite directions
For the pleated strip, we recommend a rectangle with the dimensions: 
Seam allowance included:
size 34 = 71cm x 32cm
size 36 = 75cm x 32cm
size 38 = 79cm x 32cm
size 42 = 87cm x 32cm
size 44 = 92cm x 32cm
size 46 = 97cm x 32cm
size 48 = 103cm x 32cm
size 50 = 109cm x 32cm
You can also change the length of the pleated blind here.
Now you can fix your outer fabric with an interlining.
Sewing instructions:
The dividing seams of the outer fabric are closed, right sides together, and the seam allowances are ironed apart. The side seam on the left half of the body is left open here so that the separable zipper can be sewn on later. 
Now you can also close the dividing seams of the lining. The seam allowance of the dividing seams in the back are ironed to the center back and stitched 0.8 cm wide. The corset rods can be pushed into the appropriate tunnel. Now turn over your straps and then iron them flat. 
The next step is to sew on the straps. They are sewn onto the corresponding markings, right sides together.
Now the lining is turned over to the outer fabric at the upper edge.
Neaten the hem of the pleated blind and topstitch it once after turning it in. To get your pleated blind back in shape, you should iron it accordingly. Fold in the side seam allowance of the pleated blind twice and topstitch. Since it is a bit tricky to process the pleated blind, you can put a small auxiliary seam about 0.5 cm from the upper raw edge. The outer fabric can then be placed on the pleated blind. 
You can turn over the lining after you have ironed the pleated seam allowance upwards. 
Now attach the zipper to the lining and sew it in place.
Stitch the zipper from the right side.
Your new CLARA is ready!
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely yours, Dagmar and Ellen.
The post SEWING PATTERN HACK “CLARA” first appeared on Blog Schnittmuster Berlin .
