Pattern hack Colleen

When sewing Colleen , you can use up your fabric scraps/clothing. It's best to mix them up in a fun and colorful way. For example, if you have a dress you no longer wear, like me in the photo above, here's what you can do with it.

In order to use the Colleen pattern, a few steps must be completed beforehand.

Before you begin, figure out how to best position the pattern. It's also always a good idea to use as much as possible from your old clothes and perhaps even keep them, like the finished hem.

→ To the “Colleen” pattern

→ To the sewing instructions “Colleen”

To get a little insight and some understanding, we have prepared a video for you here.

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the front and back pieces and the facings at the front and back on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long snip with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

First, the existing seams are undone to allow for easier cutting.

Now you can place the front and back pieces on your fabric along the fold. You can also use the existing hem here.

To make use of the sleeves made from the leftover dress fabric, you'll first need to shorten the sleeve pattern for Colleen. Don't forget to factor in the seam allowance and mark it on your pattern again. This is what your cut sleeves look like.

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew this T-shirt you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and a stretchy stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a home sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part stretch stitch and then neaten all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another similar stitch to prevent them from fraying.

Next, sew the bust darts. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch, and the side seam ends nicely and straight.
To avoid having to lock the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Now close your side seams. After you've closed the side seams of the sleeves, you can also double-tuck and topstitch the hem.

The neckline is sewn in a round (front, back, and short sleeve pieces). Then, the seam allowances are ironed open and the neckline is ironed in half.

Sew the facing, right sides together, to the neckline and neaten the seam allowances together.

Your upcycled COLLEEN is ready!

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as quickly as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.